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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
When i first started searching this forum to look for solutions to the factory radios crappy performance I thought I would have to spend a fortune and buy a new head unit. Well after much more research and attempting it myself I can tell you it is very possible. For under $300 I upgraded the factory speakers, added an amp, and added a sub. The sound is beyond night and day difference and I can finally hear my music clearly at highway speeds. The beauty of the amp is it accepts speaker level inputs so there is no need to upgrade the head unit. It also turns itself on and off via those inputs so no remote wire was needed. This will take some elbow grease to install but if you are on a budget it is a wonderful solution.

Sub $80
Amazon.com : PIONEER TS-SW2502S4 10-Inch, 1.200 Watts Shallow-Mount Subwoofer : Electronics

Speakers $60
Amazon.com: Kenwood Kfc-P509Ps 5.25-Inch Performance Series Component Speaker System: Car Electronics

Amp $134
Amazon.com: Kenwood KAC-8406 900 Watts Peak/400 Watts RMS 4-Channel Class A/B Car Amplifier with Signal Sensing Auto Turn-on and Bass Boost: Cell Phones & Accessories

The pic was taken during tuning but is now cleaned up and amp fits nicely under the seat after I rotated it.

Cheers!
 

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When i first started searching this forum to look for solutions to the factory radios crappy performance I thought I would have to spend a fortune and buy a new head unit. Well after much more research and attempting it myself I can tell you it is very possible. For under $300 I upgraded the factory speakers, added an amp, and added a sub. The sound is beyond night and day difference and I can finally hear my music clearly at highway speeds. The beauty of the amp is it accepts speaker level inputs so there is no need to upgrade the head unit. It also turns itself on and off via those inputs so no remote wire was needed. This will take some elbow grease to install but if you are on a budget it is a wonderful solution.

Sub $80
Amazon.com : PIONEER TS-SW2502S4 10-Inch, 1.200 Watts Shallow-Mount Subwoofer : Electronics

Speakers $60
Amazon.com: Kenwood Kfc-P509Ps 5.25-Inch Performance Series Component Speaker System: Car Electronics

Amp $134
Amazon.com: Kenwood KAC-8406 900 Watts Peak/400 Watts RMS 4-Channel Class A/B Car Amplifier with Signal Sensing Auto Turn-on and Bass Boost: Cell Phones & Accessories

The pic was taken during tuning but is now cleaned up and amp fits nicely under the seat after I rotated it.

Cheers!
Wow thats looks great , did you made any installation video on running wires or how you fixed the sub-woofer in the box ??
 

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Wow thats looks great , did you made any installation video on running wires or how you fixed the sub-woofer in the box ??
My question is regarding the subwoofer... Does it rattle much on the stock doors? I like the footprint of the sub and the price looks good, but does it hold well on the stock doors? They feel low quality to me...

Finally, with modified seats (or stock) does the recline present a problem?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I used 2 extra screws in the factory screw locations behind the door to add extra rigidity to the panel. I also used a very thick D-foam all around the edges to seal and prevent rattling. Honestly at this point I wish I would have went with a standard and not shallow sub as there is plenty of room left in the compartment to accommodate.

My seat slides and reclines just like it did as new.

I didn't do a video but I did allot of research on here seeing what others did and made it work for me.
 

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I used 2 extra screws in the factory screw locations behind the door to add extra rigidity to the panel. I also used a very thick D-foam all around the edges to seal and prevent rattling. Honestly at this point I wish I would have went with a standard and not shallow sub as there is plenty of room left in the compartment to accommodate.

My seat slides and reclines just like it did as new.

I didn't do a video but I did allot of research on here seeing what others did and made it work for me.
If possible send me the pics of your sub-woofer box and how you foamed it i'm on the same boat as you were and trying to do it less expensive.
 

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Same as above! Please post... I'd still prefer shallow because want to keep the storage maximized.

I understand though if sound is your primary concern...
 

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I really want to hear that sub in person...I was looking at that one prior but have been let down by some Pioneer products over the years.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Same as above! Please post... I'd still prefer shallow because want to keep the storage maximized.

I understand though if sound is your primary concern...
Storage will be lost. I say this because in order to get a good seal you have to use two screws on the side of the door. They bolt in to a factory bolt hole behind the door so you only have to drill a hole in the door itself. I suppose you could bring a screwdriver with you and unscrew them every time but that would make for a pain in the behind.
 

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Storage will be lost. I say this because in order to get a good seal you have to use two screws on the side of the door. They bolt in to a factory bolt hole behind the door so you only have to drill a hole in the door itself. I suppose you could bring a screwdriver with you and unscrew them every time but that would make for a pain in the behind.
Aww...

Anybody have solutions for bass without losing both storages?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Aww...

Anybody have solutions for bass without losing both storages?
I'm going to try and find a thumb screw for those two bolts which should make it easier to access the area but you will always have that extra step.

If you search the forums you will find allot of folks with creative solutions to this problem. My problem with them is the time and money required to create them is not worth it to me. I wanted to keep this simple, reasonably priced, and above all audible on the highway. This particular solution worked for me.
 

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I'm going to try and find a thumb screw for those two bolts which should make it easier to access the area but you will always have that extra step.

If you search the forums you will find allot of folks with creative solutions to this problem. My problem with them is the time and money required to create them is not worth it to me. I wanted to keep this simple, reasonably priced, and above all audible on the highway. This particular solution worked for me.
Please also take the picture where you drilled and added screws ... another thing i wanted to ask ? Can we go bigger in the woofer size like 12 inch ? if you can also point out what are the draw back for having 12 inch woofer from your early analysis?
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Please also take the picture where you drilled and added screws ... another thing i wanted to ask ? Can we go bigger in the woofer size like 12 inch ? if you can also point out what are the draw back for having 12 inch woofer from your early analysis?
12's are too big for the door. I suppose it could be done but you would have to foam the snot out of it to try and get it to seal.
 
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