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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I contacted @jwelter from Welter Performance (WP) about my dual exhaust rubbing the rear tire against the Y pipe on large dips underway. I was concerned that when I install air ride and air out the vehicle I would be resting on the exhaust or give up a ton of drop in the rear. Not to mention if I lower the rear at all, I would rub the tire to exhaust more frequently. He asked me to measure the distance the Y pipe was away from the rear plastic of the Slingshot. I provided measurements that put me about 1 7/8” away.

2 Inch away.jpg


Jeff clearly stated that was too far and walked me through a modification that would remedy the rubbing and give piece of mind for future lowering of the Slingshot. First up, he shipped out a new 2” pipe clamp with welded hanger tab to replace the fixed (welded) tab on the exhaust system. This provides more adjustments in overall exhaust length.

Using the method below, I was successful in moving the exhaust closer to the rear of the Slingshot plastic by 1”. Here are before and after pictures (Notice the band clamp on the resonators in each photo – Compare to where yours are placed and you may too need to perform this modification).

Slingshot.jpg

Before modification ^

after.JPG

After modification ^

Here is a quick walk-through of what is involved with this modification/fix. I also uploaded a .pdf for you to print and take with if needed.

Step 1: Remove the resonators and mounting hardware (band clamps & springs) that holds them in place. Set them aside in a safe place.

Step 2: Remove the coupler clamp holding the Y pipe in place and clamping the 3rd portion of the exhaust system. Once the 2 – 14MM nuts are loosened up, you will need to pry it open with a flat screwdriver.

Step 3: Remove the 14mm bolt & nut holding the Y portion of the exhaust via the welded hanger. This is attached to the frame of the Slingshot near the battery. Carefully remove the Y section from the vehicle twisting it to clear the angle drive and frame. Once fully removed from the vehicle, remove the red bushing washer form the welded exhaust hanger and set aside.

Weld hanger and bushing washer.JPG



Step 4:
Secure the Y section of the exhaust in a vice or similar fashion in order to cut off the welded exhaust hanger tab. I used a small cutoff wheel attached to my Dremel tool and took my time. Be sure to wear eye protection!

It may be necessary to grind off any sharp edges left once the tab is removed. Be cautious and don’t grind too heavily in the area. It is not necessary to remove the welds completely as they will be hidden from view once reinstalled. Note orientation of the tab and once removed, slip the new 2” clap provided by Jeff over the end of the Y pipe.

cut.JPG



Step 5: Loosen the coupler clamp holding the 3rd portion of the exhaust to the 2nd portion. This is closer to the transmission. Carefully remove the 3rd portion of the exhaust. You will cut off the male section of the 3rd portion of the exhaust the distance you’d like your exhaust moved closer. The preferred tool is a pipe cutter large enough to cut 2” pipe. Using a hack saw or saws-all is not recommended. Be sure to remove any burrs left inside or outside of the remaining pipe.

In my case, I conservatively cut 1” off the male end of the pipe and figured if I needed more, I could always go back and repeat. Remember the saying, measure twice; cut once! It DOES apply here.

pipe cutter.JPG



Step 6: With all coupler clamps in place and left loose, rehang the exhaust system. Be sure all pieces fit together snugly. Start by attaching the 2” welded hanger you just installed and attach that to the frame. Leave the clamp portion loose around the exhaust for now.

Note: I had to trim a small portion of the bushing washer so it sit flat against the newly provided hanger clamp. I basically flattened a portion of the outer diameter of the bushing material. Also due to disfigurement, I trimmed a tad off the cylinder piece that gets inserted into itself.

Twist and apply pressure to each piece until it is seated. Tighten all 3 of the coupler clamps and then tighten the 2” hanger clamp. Reinstall the resonators (rear cans), replace the compression springs and band clamps. Now pat yourself on the back and pop open a beer!

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Here is the end result. As you can see I went from a gap of 1 7/8” down to 7/8”. This tells me my exhaust was installed tightly the first time. Jeff Recommends a gap of between ½ “ – 5/8” and claims it will not harm the rear plastic being that close.

1 inch away.JPG

(Hard to see this measurement. I will re-shoot it.)
 

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Great write up, now i need to call Jeff to get my clamp. Been fighting the tire exhaust rub ever since i put on the air ride. Just hard excelleration cause tire rub.


LC
 

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Discussion Starter #6
2W2X1 i dont suppose you could post a picture of the pipe clamp that jeff sent you?

LC
That is the one photo I didn't take. I PM'd him for a photo... I can shoot it installed, but won't be the same.
 

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Thanks just the same, Angie is sending me a clamp, I'll take a picture and add it to this thread. It will be after MV before it is shipped.


LC
 

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Discussion Starter #8
@LargeCar Here is the new clamp that is being offered.

clamp.JPG
 

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That ought to do the job, it is adjustable just by sliding it to where it needs to be. Smart people there at Welter.


LC
 

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Discussion Starter #10
That ought to do the job, it is adjustable just by sliding it to where it needs to be. Smart people there at Welter.


LC
Exactamundo!
 

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I no longer have the WP Duals, having switched to WP Sidekick due to fumes.

Still, wanted to say great job on documenting the update. BZ!
 
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