Polaris Slingshot Forum banner
21 - 27 of 27 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
So after a month I get my top and I am pretty stoked about it. Then came the install and the frustration started. Okay so #1 I got the Stinger in position and I am ready to put the eight bolts and nuts to secure it but the supplied hardware is incorrect, the nuts and bolts were the wrong thread pitch for each other. Awesome right, so off to the hardware store I go 35 mile round trip I buy new hardware and stinger install is going good. Which brings us to #2 I fish the plate that sets on the frame under the cup holders into position and trying to install the support bar, but guess what the supplied hardware wont go in. I pull the plate back out and now I am Pissed off the two holes where the vertical supports attaches are drilled but not tapped "NO THREADS" oh boy I'm one unhappy customer now. Back to town I go again another 35 miles to spend more money on a tap set to fix something I paid $2500 for unacceptable. After all that the install starts to go fairly smooth and I am happy with the top, love the look it gives my Slingshot and the protection from the sun it provides. It does shake or vibrate some while driving but does no bother me just bothers my GoPro. I really wanted to post a great review of this top but I just can't.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Thank you
I’m all set with the bar that goes under the cupholder now it’s the LED Driving light. So the instructions says to run a power chord through the bar that connects to the center console. So am I running this power chord from the front connecting it to my fuse box
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,443 Posts
If you haven't already installed a secondary fuse block, it's easier to use a power plug to access the rear power port above the cupholders underneath the little projection from the top fin. The only drawback to using this approach is that power port, unlike the port inside the glove-box, is ALWAYS live, so it's important to remember to make sure that anything connected to the rear power port is turned off before exiting the Slingshot to avoid running the battery down.
If you want a secondary fuse block, see - Polaris Slingshot Accessory Fuse Blocks. I have a fuse block similar to the MadStad fuse block, but the MadStad comes with all of the connectors, wiring harness and mount to make installation relatively easy. The FZ-1 fuse box is a good second choice since it allows you to set each circuit to be always powered or only powered when the key is on. I would also recommend using the optional wiring harness when installing the FZ-1. The wiring harness makes installation a lot easier.
Slingshotonly.com also sells both fuse blocks, but doesn't appear to sell the wiring harness for the FZ-1. SSO does offer wiring harnesses for theMadStad fuse block that make it a little easier to connect accessories to the MadStad fuse block.
Hope this helps.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Not sure about that. But I ordered the top through SlingMods and their was no reviews on their site for it and I hated to have to leave a negative one. But i felt the need to post my full review on this forum because SlingMods review system only allowed me to use a 1000 characters for the review so I had to cut off the things I liked about the top. Because at the end of the day I really do like it. Just sharing my experience with the community.
Can anyone direct me to a good solid full cover for the out side that’s big enough to cover the sling shot with the twisted dynamic stinger top. I bought one off of Amazon and it doesn’t fit and I keep mine put side all year round
 
21 - 27 of 27 Posts
Top