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Discussion Starter #1
I'm tired of being a nutless wonder. Every time I go to work on the Slingshot I need something I don't have. Technically it's a bolt, and I'm going to order a shitload of them. I believe we need M6 x 1 - 20 and M5 x 0.8 - 20, black powder coated Torx.

Since this will be a custom-order (meaning builk) I'm thinking of supplying quantities for replacement sets and would like to know if anyone is interested. A "set" might consist of:
(10) M6
(5) M5
(1) extra-long M6
(4) M6 washers & nuts
(2) M5 washers & nuts

(The washers & nuts would allow for mounting additional things in existing holes while retaining the stock appearance.)

I realize there are some hex bolts, such as the M6 on the roll-hoop, but Torx are a better fastener and it's cheaper/easier to stock one type of fastener rather than some of each (and then you run out of the one you need).
 

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I'm tired of being a nutless wonder. Every time I go to work on the Slingshot I need something I don't have. Technically it's a bolt, and I'm going to order a shitload of them. I believe we need M6 x 1 - 20 and M5 x 0.8 - 20, black powder coated Torx.

Since this will be a custom-order (meaning builk) I'm thinking of supplying quantities for replacement sets and would like to know if anyone is interested. A "set" might consist of:
(10) M6
(5) M5
(1) extra-long M6
(4) M6 washers & nuts
(2) M5 washers & nuts

(The washers & nuts would allow for mounting additional things in existing holes while retaining the stock appearance.)

I realize there are some hex bolts, such as the M6 on the roll-hoop, but Torx are a better fastener and it's cheaper/easier to stock one type of fastener rather than some of each (and then you run out of the one you need).
Count me in...
 

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I'm tired of being a nutless wonder. Every time I go to work on the Slingshot I need something I don't have. Technically it's a bolt, and I'm going to order a shitload of them. I believe we need M6 x 1 - 20 and M5 x 0.8 - 20, black powder coated Torx.

Since this will be a custom-order (meaning builk) I'm thinking of supplying quantities for replacement sets and would like to know if anyone is interested. A "set" might consist of:
(10) M6
(5) M5
(1) extra-long M6
(4) M6 washers & nuts
(2) M5 washers & nuts

(The washers & nuts would allow for mounting additional things in existing holes while retaining the stock appearance.)

I realize there are some hex bolts, such as the M6 on the roll-hoop, but Torx are a better fastener and it's cheaper/easier to stock one type of fastener rather than some of each (and then you run out of the one you need).
I buy TONS of stuff like this from McMaster Carr for our shop. Have you tried checked out their assortment packs? McMaster-Carr
 

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Discussion Starter #4
@Sling ding-a-ling: I had not thought of McMaster-Carr. Most of the stuff I've put in has been high-grade stainless, since it doesn't rust and holds up much better than stock; the caution being the bolts don't strip out like the stockers, so one must be careful to not cross-thread them (stock are so soft the threads just roll in and they become push-pins). Replacements from Polaris are something like $1.57 each.
 

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@Sling ding-a-ling: I had not thought of McMaster-Carr. Most of the stuff I've put in has been high-grade stainless, since it doesn't rust and holds up much better than stock; the caution being the bolts don't strip out like the stockers, so one must be careful to not cross-thread them (stock are so soft the threads just roll in and they become push-pins). Replacements from Polaris are something like $1.57 each.
We put these into our CNC machines and tooling everyday. Never had the black oxide grade 8 bolts rust ever. Unless you are driving on the ocean beach regularly or submerging them in water for extended periods of time, I don't think there would be much of an issue.
 

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I'm tired of being a nutless wonder. Every time I go to work on the Slingshot I need something I don't have. Technically it's a bolt, and I'm going to order a shitload of them. I believe we need M6 x 1 - 20 and M5 x 0.8 - 20, black powder coated Torx.

Since this will be a custom-order (meaning builk) I'm thinking of supplying quantities for replacement sets and would like to know if anyone is interested. A "set" might consist of:
(10) M6
(5) M5
(1) extra-long M6
(4) M6 washers & nuts
(2) M5 washers & nuts

(The washers & nuts would allow for mounting additional things in existing holes while retaining the stock appearance.)

I realize there are some hex bolts, such as the M6 on the roll-hoop, but Torx are a better fastener and it's cheaper/easier to stock one type of fastener rather than some of each (and then you run out of the one you need).
Add to that this package of extra plastic panel push clips!

10 Pack of OEM Polaris Plastic Fender Clips / Body Rivets 7661855

$6.85
Qty: 1
Sold By: Fix_My_Toys
 

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I'm interested. I started looking into this type of deal a couple weeks ago but work and life keep pulling me offtrack.
Don't you hate it when work and life gets between you and your Sling? It's like when you are half way through watching a season finally of the The Walking Dead and you have to poop.:nailbiting::wideyed::mad::eek:
 

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Trying to find "sleep" and "drinking beer" on your pie chart. I suppose drinking beer happens during the entire 360 degrees of the chart. The sleep part probably happens both While you are waiting for a reply on this forum and also when you fall asleep with a wrench in you hand lying on your creeper underneath your sling.
And then you come up with a psychotic idea like building a hitch to pull your toys around with!
 

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I'd really love to take mine camping. Has anyone found the realistic hitch weight and tow weight limit on the Slingshot?
Probably getting off topic a bit here, don't want to get "Spanked" by the thread police again:facepalm: :banghead: :blackeye:......... so we will need to move to one of the trailer towing/hitch threads after this.

In my testing, I wanted to test worst case scenarios and have done it all (check out my Youtube videos). We have the limitations for our hitch listed on my website. If you hook up high, use good judgement, triple your stopping distance, and drive your SS in "subdued mode," you can safely pull up to 1,200 lbs like I have proven. That being said, there is a reason I have a $2 million product liability policy in effect. People will always go above and beyond rated limitations........

I'll just tell you this; I've traveled over 18,000 miles with my 2015 Base SS. Over 6,000 miles have been testing the hell out of the towing capabalities of the engine, drive train, and hitch assembly. I've towed an average weight of 900 lbs. with no trailer brakes. (I would only do this with a hitch system that is mounted like the Wycked is). Our last trip was pulling the cargo trailer I built from Central WA to Southern CA. Trailer weighs in at 917 lbs empty. I towed it over 1,000 miles with a tongue weight of 120 lbs and a loaded weight of approx 1,400 lbs. After unloading hitches in Auburn, CA, we went another 1500 miles with a tongue weight of about 80 lbs and trailer load of about 1,200 lbs.

I take average care of my SS, oil changes about 6,000 miles full synthetic, run after market wheels/tires, and added the 1320 header and Alpha Remote Adjustable Exhaust (drilled a few extra holes in my air intake box). The SS has performed flawlessly! I have had the recall work done and replaced both center headlamps which burned out at about the 15,000 mile mark (3 weeks apart). I know I need to bleed my brakes, as they have always been a bit "spungy," and I've had my "brake failure" light come on a few times recently. There's a great fix on the forum for that.

All said, I am extremely happy and pleased with the towing performance of the Slingshot. I foresee a trailer towing package option in the near future! :cigar:
 

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I'm tired of being a nutless wonder. Every time I go to work on the Slingshot I need something I don't have. Technically it's a bolt, and I'm going to order a shitload of them. I believe we need M6 x 1 - 20 and M5 x 0.8 - 20, black powder coated Torx.

Since this will be a custom-order (meaning builk) I'm thinking of supplying quantities for replacement sets and would like to know if anyone is interested. A "set" might consist of:
(10) M6
(5) M5
(1) extra-long M6
(4) M6 washers & nuts
(2) M5 washers & nuts

(The washers & nuts would allow for mounting additional things in existing holes while retaining the stock appearance.)

I realize there are some hex bolts, such as the M6 on the roll-hoop, but Torx are a better fastener and it's cheaper/easier to stock one type of fastener rather than some of each (and then you run out of the one you need).
I wold be interested in a set if they come in Stainless.... :) I live in salty air location and some of mine are already showing signs of Corrosion....
 

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I wold be interested in a set if they come in Stainless.... :) I live in salty air location and some of mine are already showing signs of Corrosion....
The good part about stainless is they resist rust well, but the iron content will rust eventually. The rust generally wipes right off. Unlike coated bolts where the coating was damaged, stainless won't rust like crazy as the whole bolt is the same material.

The bad parts are they are a Grade 3 bolt, automotive generally uses a Grade 5 for strength, Grade 8 for suspensions. I'm going to guess the stock bolts are a Grade 1 or less, so in my opinion the stainless will work better than stock. I've used stainless in exhausts (high stress) and they worked great there too.

Grade 3, if cross-threaded, could ruin the receivig threads, unlike the stock bolts which are really soft. Then again, that softness is what a lot of us don't like.

Stainless galls under certain conditions, making them hard to remove. With the stainless I've used there was never an issue, your experience may differ.

Stainless generally doesn't cause thread locker to fully react, much like aluminum doesn't (because neither give up electrons without a fight).

Stainless is dissimilar to steel, and therefore galvanic corrosion can occur. I haven't been able to determine how much this affects anything.

The last thing I'd want to do is find out my love of stainless was a bad idea, and others followed my poor lead, so if anyone has more knowledge on this please share.
 

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The good part about stainless is they resist rust well, but the iron content will rust eventually. The rust generally wipes right off. Unlike coated bolts where the coating was damaged, stainless won't rust like crazy as the whole bolt is the same material.

The bad parts are they are a Grade 3 bolt, automotive generally uses a Grade 5 for strength, Grade 8 for suspensions. I'm going to guess the stock bolts are a Grade 1 or less, so in my opinion the stainless will work better than stock. I've used stainless in exhausts (high stress) and they worked great there too.

Grade 3, if cross-threaded, could ruin the receivig threads, unlike the stock bolts which are really soft. Then again, that softness is what a lot of us don't like.

Stainless galls under certain conditions, making them hard to remove. With the stainless I've used there was never an issue, your experience may differ.

Stainless generally doesn't cause thread locker to fully react, much like aluminum doesn't (because neither give up electrons without a fight).

Stainless is dissimilar to steel, and therefore galvanic corrosion can occur. I haven't been able to determine how much this affects anything.

The last thing I'd want to do is find out my love of stainless was a bad idea, and others followed my poor lead, so if anyone has more knowledge on this please share.
Here is a chart I snipped from McMasterCarr.com in their bolt selection section.
Bolt Chart.JPG
 
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