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eric vaughn machine: aluminum wheel widening and narrowing

got to get my rear rim shipped off to Eric in California to make my 10" wide rim into a 12" wide rim so I can run the Toyo 345 tire that I want. To keep the rim centered I will have to run a billet 1" wheel spacer. I have run these before, and if you buy them from the right folks, they are quite durable and safe.
Mustang Wheel Spacer 25mm Black Pair V6/EcoBoost/GT 2015-2017 this is who I've bought from before. View attachment 90785
FWIW - This is what I am going with. Was thinking of widening but the backspace numbers didn't work and didn't want a spacer. Not criticizing just pointing out an option:

Custom Wheels for Polaris Slingshot 20 Inch Front 22 Inch Rear Wide Fat Wheel tire 345 Rear 20x12 20x8.5 20x9 Rim Rims Forged Aluminum Tires Package Set Mounted Racing widest rear available fattest biggest most traction possible
 

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Thanks to a fellow slinger Grant wood, all is well in Turbo land. I'll be shipping him his kit in the morning, and I'll get back to my honda motor! Yes!
That would be me...and I am stoked! Debating boost for awhile. Thanks to this incredible deal and incredible guy...I get to feel what the Slingshot is supposed to feel like at 6K feet above sea level.
 

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The more I look at the thread the more I like it. I used AiM loggers on all of my race bikes Obiwan,..unlimited amount of sensor options. Is this dash going to be a dry only install or can it get wet? I seem to remember that liquid sunshine that caught us off guard so many times in the past young Jedi:cigar:
I need more pictures and information about this build you nut!!!!
 

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Just out of curiosity, why would it be advantageous to go this route instead of upgrading the stock sling engine to rev higher / handle bigger numbers and changing the gear ratio in the transmission?
 

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Discussion Starter · #53 ·
FWIW - This is what I am going with. Was thinking of widening but the backspace numbers didn't work and didn't want a spacer. Not criticizing just pointing out an option:

Custom Wheels for Polaris Slingshot 20 Inch Front 22 Inch Rear Wide Fat Wheel tire 345 Rear 20x12 20x8.5 20x9 Rim Rims Forged Aluminum Tires Package Set Mounted Racing widest rear available fattest biggest most traction possible
I have been a land speed racer in the past and hold the world record for the fastest Big block street legal pickup truck in a standing mile, I ran eric's wheels and a billet spacer at over 150mph on a 4000lb. truck, so I believe i'll be safe with this wheel setup and i like having a wheel that nobody else has, which is why I'm doing the whole build in the first point. I like to be me!
 

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Discussion Starter · #54 · (Edited)
Just out of curiosity, why would it be advantageous to go this route instead of upgrading the stock sling engine to rev higher / handle bigger numbers and changing the gear ratio in the transmission?
Since I modified my sling within the first two weeks of owning a SlingShot back almost two years ago, I've gone through three versions of the ecotech motor. My stock motor blew up at the track in October of 2015, it cracked the front #1 cylinder piston right at the ring valley due to excessive heat caused by running the motor too lean of fuel by running my fuel tank too low on fuel for the driving conditions.

did my research after I got back from driving to Keywest and back the next few days after the track blow up and All I did was replace the spark plugs and scope the front cylinder to make sure the piston was still whole, it was too a point, right up to the point where I was driving down I-95 at 110mph and passing a white minivan just as the motor decided it was tired of playing nice with me and grenaded all over that ladies nice white minivan and left me stranded on the front entrance to the local HD dealer.

So, we went to the local salvage yard, bought a low milage 2006 HHR 2.4 ecotech motor, it has forged lower internals, dropped it in the bike, added back my hahn turbo system and proceed to drive it for close to 20K miles with out any issues, even drove it Coast to Coast and back in August of this year with no real issues. Got home, decided to do another track day, in October of this year, took extra gas just to be safe, ran the track with a full tank the first time, two thirds full the second session, came back in, lowered my air pressures, reset my shocks, checked my wheel lugs and took back out to the track for my third session, was running really well when I dove into a 80plus mph right left sweeper and heard a loud "POP"! and realized I forgot one thing I was supposed to do..... add GAS!

Blew the front cylinder again, cracked the same #1 piston as well as threw a rocker out on the back #4 cylinder. So, Here I am, made a promise to @Noel Hughes that I would be at his toy run, had plans for a New Years day ride and zipline as well as I wanted to do the Orlando SS Takeover, so, I bought some used pistons, had the head gone over and they fixed the bent valves in the head, we added a new timing chain, took out the bad rod and piston, put it all back together and I drove it to the toy run, averaged 60+ mph on the trip, topped out at 116mph on part of the trip, the motor ticked a little and that was about it, looked at going to full blown badass rebuild route and go for the 400 to 500whp like some of the others have done, figured it would cost me from $6000.00 to $12000.00 dollars to build a stout ecotech with a turbo and I would still not be able to go over 135mph, have shitty traction because we are driving on a single rear tire and I still have the same style drivetrain as everybody else.

My buddy @gpcustoms has been the lone guy who kept telling me that N/A can be done and it will be a better package and more than capable to run with the big dogs, and I finally decided to try his way. (He is the N/A track record holder at the Firm in Starke). My goal was usuable HP, drivability and reliability.

I wanted a high reving, strong mid-range and top end range use of power and I wanted it to be setup so when my wife wanted to drive it, she could and when I wanted to go out and banzai the hills or the track I could. Plus.... when I opened the hood, I wanted it to look like nobody elses ride.

The Honda F-20 S2000 Vetc motor is all of that plus more. In stock form, it puts out 235whp at 8600rpm, that is70 more hp than the stock ecotech. It's power comes on in the mid range and upper end, but it has enough power in the lower end to get the SlingShot moving without frying the tire off. By using the Haltech programer that Jamie Roy has developed, I can still have ALL of the Polaris safety measures, at this point right now, (I will not have cruise control, that will be later.) I will be able to eliminate the Polaris ECU and the Honda ECU totally, so no piggy back system. I will have full control over the tune with a laptop. The Haltech is self learning and by going to the ITB's, I will gain close to 50 HP and by adding the lightweight flywheel and pulleys, the better valves and springs, some light head work and different grind cams, I'll be at over 9000rpm's and 300whp, the HP gains in the lower and mid range will be quite noticable, the whole package will be close to 150lbs. less than the turboed Ecotech, and the placement of the motor so far has been a true bolt in, no cutting up of the chassis , we will have to shorten the drive shaft, we will be able to fit the whole package under the hood and there will be NOTHING below the frame rails. My handling will be better than before because the unsprung weight will be less and I can control where it is placed in the chassis, my new wheel package will allow me to run a 345 tire which will be two inches wider than what I run now and because the motor will not have the A/C to turn nor the heavier crankshaft pully, I should be able to spin the motor up quicker and utilize a superior 6 speed transmission and I'm willing to bet whatever anybody wants to bet that my S2000 SlingShot SiRT will out run, out drive and out handle anything anybody else has, .ie turbo, supercharger, V8 or whatever. I'll have it in Texas hopefully, I'm pretty darn sure it will be in the Smokies, and I'll be glad to run whomever wants to run. motor with itbs in sling.jpg motor with itbs in sling2.jpg
 

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Since I modified my sling within the first two weeks of owning a SlingShot back almost two years ago, I've gone through three versions of the ecotech motor. My stock motor blew up at the track in October of 2015, it cracked the front #1 cylinder piston right at the ring valley due to excessive heat caused by running the motor too lean of fuel by running my fuel tank too low on fuel for the driving conditions.

did my research after I got back from driving to Keywest and back the next few days after the track blow up and All I did was replace the spark plugs and scope the front cylinder to make sure the piston was still whole, it was too a point, right up to the point where I was driving down I-95 at 110mph and passing a white minivan just as the motor decided it was tired of playing nice with me and grenaded all over that ladies nice white minivan and left me stranded on the front entrance to the local HD dealer.

So, we went to the local salvage yard, bought a low milage 2006 HHR 2.4 ecotech motor, it has forged lower internals, dropped it in the bike, added back my hahn turbo system and proceed to drive it for close to 20K miles with out any issues, even drove it Coast to Coast and back in August of this year with no real issues. Got home, decided to do another track day, in October of this year, took extra gas just to be safe, ran the track with a full tank the first time, two thirds full the second session, came back in, lowered my air pressures, reset my shocks, checked my wheel lugs and took back out to the track for my third session, was running really well when I dove into a 80plus mph right left sweeper and heard a loud "POP"! and realized I forgot one thing I was supposed to do..... add GAS!

Blew the front cylinder again, cracked the same #1 piston as well as threw a rocker out on the back #4 cylinder. So, Here I am, made a promise to @Noel Hughes that I would be at his toy run, had plans for a New Years day ride and zipline as well as I wanted to do the Orlando SS Takeover, so, I bought some used pistons, had the head gone over and they fixed the bent valves in the head, we added a new timing chain, took out the bad rod and piston, put it all back together and I drove it to the toy run, averaged 60+ mph on the trip, topped out at 116mph on part of the trip, the motor ticked a little and that was about it, looked at going to full blown badass rebuild route and go for the 400 to 500whp like some of the others have done, figured it would cost me from $6000.00 to $12000.00 dollars to build a stout ecotech with a turbo and I would still not be able to go over 135mph, have shitty traction because we are driving on a single rear tire and I still have the same style drivetrain as everybody else.

My buddy @gpcustoms has been the lone guy who kept telling me that N/A can be done and it will be a better package and more than capable to run with the big dogs, and I finally decided to try his way. (He is the N/A track record holder at the Firm in Starke). My goal was usuable HP, drivability and reliability.

I wanted a high reving, strong mid-range and top end range use of power and I wanted it to be setup so when my wife wanted to drive it, she could and when I wanted to go out and banzai the hills or the track I could. Plus.... when I opened the hood, I wanted it to look like nobody elses ride.

The Honda F-20 S2000 Vetc motor is all of that plus more. In stock form, it puts out 235whp at 8600rpm, that is70 more hp than the stock ecotech. It's power comes on in the mid range and upper end, but it has enough power in the lower end to get the SlingShot moving without frying the tire off. By using the Haltech programer that Jamie Roy has developed, I can still have ALL of the Polaris safety measures, at this point right now, (I will not have cruise control, that will be later.) I will be able to eliminate the Polaris ECU and the Honda ECU totally, so no piggy back system. I will have full control over the tune with a laptop. The Haltech is self learning and by going to the ITB's, I will gain close to 50 HP and by adding the lightweight flywheel and pulleys, the better valves and springs, some light head work and different grind cams, I'll be at over 9000rpm's and 300whp, the HP gains in the lower and mid range will be quite noticable, the whole package will be close to 150lbs. less than the turboed Ecotech, and the placement of the motor so far has been a true bolt in, no cutting up of the chassis , we will have to shorten the drive shaft, we will be able to fit the whole package under the hood and there will be NOTHING below the frame rails. My handling will be better than before because the unsprung weight will be less and I can control where it is placed in the chassis, my new wheel package will allow me to run a 345 tire which will be two inches wider than what I run now and because the motor will not have the A/C to turn nor the heavier crankshaft pully, I should be able to spin the motor up quicker and utilize a superior 6 speed transmission and I'm willing to bet whatever anybody wants to bet that my S2000 SlingShot SiRT will out run, out drive and out handle anything anybody else has, .ie turbo, supercharger, V8 or whatever. I'll have it in Texas hopefully, I'm pretty darn sure it will be in the Smokies, and I'll be glad to run whomever wants to run. View attachment 90993 View attachment 91001
Great information in that post.

What is your rough budget for this drive line ECM system swap?

Also, could you PM me your contact for wheel widening in CA?

Awesome stuff man!
 
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Since I modified my sling within the first two weeks of owning a SlingShot back almost two years ago, I've gone through three versions of the ecotech motor. My stock motor blew up at the track in October of 2015, it cracked the front #1 cylinder piston right at the ring valley due to excessive heat caused by running the motor too lean of fuel by running my fuel tank too low on fuel for the driving conditions.

did my research after I got back from driving to Keywest and back the next few days after the track blow up and All I did was replace the spark plugs and scope the front cylinder to make sure the piston was still whole, it was too a point, right up to the point where I was driving down I-95 at 110mph and passing a white minivan just as the motor decided it was tired of playing nice with me and grenaded all over that ladies nice white minivan and left me stranded on the front entrance to the local HD dealer.

So, we went to the local salvage yard, bought a low milage 2006 HHR 2.4 ecotech motor, it has forged lower internals, dropped it in the bike, added back my hahn turbo system and proceed to drive it for close to 20K miles with out any issues, even drove it Coast to Coast and back in August of this year with no real issues. Got home, decided to do another track day, in October of this year, took extra gas just to be safe, ran the track with a full tank the first time, two thirds full the second session, came back in, lowered my air pressures, reset my shocks, checked my wheel lugs and took back out to the track for my third session, was running really well when I dove into a 80plus mph right left sweeper and heard a loud "POP"! and realized I forgot one thing I was supposed to do..... add GAS!

Blew the front cylinder again, cracked the same #1 piston as well as threw a rocker out on the back #4 cylinder. So, Here I am, made a promise to @Noel Hughes that I would be at his toy run, had plans for a New Years day ride and zipline as well as I wanted to do the Orlando SS Takeover, so, I bought some used pistons, had the head gone over and they fixed the bent valves in the head, we added a new timing chain, took out the bad rod and piston, put it all back together and I drove it to the toy run, averaged 60+ mph on the trip, topped out at 116mph on part of the trip, the motor ticked a little and that was about it, looked at going to full blown badass rebuild route and go for the 400 to 500whp like some of the others have done, figured it would cost me from $6000.00 to $12000.00 dollars to build a stout ecotech with a turbo and I would still not be able to go over 135mph, have shitty traction because we are driving on a single rear tire and I still have the same style drivetrain as everybody else.

My buddy @gpcustoms has been the lone guy who kept telling me that N/A can be done and it will be a better package and more than capable to run with the big dogs, and I finally decided to try his way. (He is the N/A track record holder at the Firm in Starke). My goal was usuable HP, drivability and reliability.

I wanted a high reving, strong mid-range and top end range use of power and I wanted it to be setup so when my wife wanted to drive it, she could and when I wanted to go out and banzai the hills or the track I could. Plus.... when I opened the hood, I wanted it to look like nobody elses ride.

The Honda F-20 S2000 Vetc motor is all of that plus more. In stock form, it puts out 235whp at 8600rpm, that is70 more hp than the stock ecotech. It's power comes on in the mid range and upper end, but it has enough power in the lower end to get the SlingShot moving without frying the tire off. By using the Haltech programer that Jamie Roy has developed, I can still have ALL of the Polaris safety measures, at this point right now, (I will not have cruise control, that will be later.) I will be able to eliminate the Polaris ECU and the Honda ECU totally, so no piggy back system. I will have full control over the tune with a laptop. The Haltech is self learning and by going to the ITB's, I will gain close to 50 HP and by adding the lightweight flywheel and pulleys, the better valves and springs, some light head work and different grind cams, I'll be at over 9000rpm's and 300whp, the HP gains in the lower and mid range will be quite noticable, the whole package will be close to 150lbs. less than the turboed Ecotech, and the placement of the motor so far has been a true bolt in, no cutting up of the chassis , we will have to shorten the drive shaft, we will be able to fit the whole package under the hood and there will be NOTHING below the frame rails. My handling will be better than before because the unsprung weight will be less and I can control where it is placed in the chassis, my new wheel package will allow me to run a 345 tire which will be two inches wider than what I run now and because the motor will not have the A/C to turn nor the heavier crankshaft pully, I should be able to spin the motor up quicker and utilize a superior 6 speed transmission and I'm willing to bet whatever anybody wants to bet that my S2000 SlingShot SiRT will out run, out drive and out handle anything anybody else has, .ie turbo, supercharger, V8 or whatever. I'll have it in Texas hopefully, I'm pretty darn sure it will be in the Smokies, and I'll be glad to run whomever wants to run. View attachment 90993 View attachment 91001
Great project. You can't beat Honda engines for power and reliability.
 

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Discussion Starter · #57 ·
Great information in that post.

What is your rough budget for this drive line ECM system swap?

Also, could you PM me your contact for wheel widening in CA?

Awesome stuff man!
We had a budget of $6000.00 to $7000.00 based on what a good quality turbo or supercharger setup runs with exhaust. At this point, I have $2900.00 in the Motor and trans, $3200.00 is set aside for the ECU & Dash system (you don't have to use the dash from Haltech, that's just me trying to keep up with Jamie Roys setup.)

The motor mounts are going to run me $275.00, the shifter knob I want is $120.00 (special titanium collectors CR edition knob from Honda, again, ego stroke). Your stock knob will fit the shifter. A custom Hydraulic clutch cable and slave cyclinder is going to be about $150.00. Misc silicon hoses and stainless or aluminum tubes to complete the coolant lines. A CR Honda shorter serpentine belt (at auto zone for $40.00) because you remove the A/C unit to help with clearing the Electric power steering unit and the cost of the exhaust, in my case, I'm making my own from the stock s2000 header, then building a side pipe system, but we are assuming that depending o nthe builders choice of style exhust, you can spend from $200.00 to $2000.00, all up to the builder. The drive shaft has to be shortened by about 3/4", and have the proper yoke welded onto the end of the transmission link, but I got a used honda drive shaft with my purchase and my driveline specialists will charge me about $250.00 for the fab work and balancing of the shaft. So at this point, I think we will be at $6800.00 to $7000.00 when we are all done. That is with me and my helper, friends and family doing allot of the work ourselves.

Now I was able to offset some of these costs by selling my existing turbo kit and some of my stock parts and pieces that are coming off, plus you could sell the stock motor and transmission, you would not get allot for a stock ecotech, I can buy them all day long with low miles for $700.00 for the motor, $300.00 for the transmission, but every little bit helps. I plan to keep mine just in case I decide to swap back or if I were to sell the bike and the new owner wanted the motor. At this point, it will become part of my man cave decorations.

My contact for the wheel widening is Eric Vaughn, his number is 626-358-6413, he does not accept checks, CC or paypal and he does not do email. he does have a website, it is eric vaughn machine: aluminum wheel widening and narrowing
 

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Love your enthusiasm and project Markster.
I have been a land speed racer in the past and hold the world record for the fastest Big block street legal pickup truck in a standing mile, I ran eric's wheels and a billet spacer at over 150mph on a 4000lb. truck, so I believe i'll be safe with this wheel setup and i like having a wheel that nobody else has, which is why I'm doing the whole build in the first point. I like to be me!


Get back to the garage young jedi so I can steal some of those ideas:singing:
 

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Just out of curiosity, why would it be advantageous to go this route instead of upgrading the stock sling engine to rev higher / handle bigger numbers and changing the gear ratio in the transmission?
Because the stock block is sintered metal. It will never make "big power" and be reliable.
 
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