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I'm guessing it will easily take another 100 hp. I'm not sure if they use this belt on any other of their vehicles, but they did tout that it was carbon fiber reinforced.
 

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http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/26168/i/drag-specialties-1-1-8-rear-drive-belt?SiteID=SLI|Drive Belt&WT.MC_ID=10010

Drag Specialties 1-1/8" Rear Drive Belt
  • Carbon fiber reinforced
  • Goodyear engineered Falcon SPC belts offer up to 33 percent more tensile strength than conventional aramid reinforced belts
  • High temperature rubber compound offers excellent flex and long service life
  • Fabric reinforced belt tooth surfaces improve wear resistance
  • Durable material construction is designed to withstand belt- penetrating debris
 

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More power is great guys, But I wonder about a few things.

1. That gear box that transfers from shaft drive to belt drive how over rated is it? can it handle extra power?

3. Belt, at what point in increasing power does the belt start jumping a tooth or three.

4. When/If you add a sticker Rear Tire, what will that do to wear and tear to the rear gearbox (Not the Transmission, the Gearbox) and belt.

If the Rear tire breaks loose traction, less force is put on the gear box and Belt, which are probably the weak link, in the drive train.

Hooking up and having Great traction put much more stress on the drive train.

That may be the reason that they went to a harder tire so that it will lose traction and be less harsh on the drive train.

I wonder how much that gearbox and Belt Cost $$$, and how durable they are,
how over rated are they?
or are they at the ragged edge?

Especially if a stickier Rear Tire is used.
 

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One problem that come to Mind with Belt Drives, is when the Manufacturer does not put a good rock guard on and a rock get up in between the Belt and one of the drive Cogs
 

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How much HP do you think that belt will take? I bet its gonna be a pricy one like the RZR's
More power is great guys, But I wonder about a few things.

1. That gear box that transfers from shaft drive to belt drive how over rated is it? can it handle extra power?

3. Belt, at what point in increasing power does the belt start jumping a tooth or three.

4. When/If you add a sticker Rear Tire, what will that do to wear and tear to the rear gearbox (Not the Transmission, the Gearbox) and belt.

If the Rear tire breaks loose traction, less force is put on the gear box and Belt, which are probably the weak link, in the drive train.

Hooking up and having Great traction put much more stress on the drive train.

That may be the reason that they went to a harder tire so that it will lose traction and be less harsh on the drive train.

I wonder how much that gearbox and Belt Cost $$$, and how durable they are,
how over rated are they?
or are they at the ragged edge?

Especially if a stickier Rear Tire is used.
MSRP is $239.99

http://www.slingshotforums.com/threads/parts-info-common-slingshot-service-parts-and-msrp.499/
 

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You could've had a V8
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More power is great guys, But I wonder about a few things.

1. That gear box that transfers from shaft drive to belt drive how over rated is it? can it handle extra power?

3. Belt, at what point in increasing power does the belt start jumping a tooth or three.

4. When/If you add a sticker Rear Tire, what will that do to wear and tear to the rear gearbox (Not the Transmission, the Gearbox) and belt.

If the Rear tire breaks loose traction, less force is put on the gear box and Belt, which are probably the weak link, in the drive train.

Hooking up and having Great traction put much more stress on the drive train.

That may be the reason that they went to a harder tire so that it will lose traction and be less harsh on the drive train.

I wonder how much that gearbox and Belt Cost $$$, and how durable they are,
how over rated are they?
or are they at the ragged edge?

Especially if a stickier Rear Tire is used.
Just replace with better parts. If you spend $3k-$5k on a drivetrain, then a $500 gearbox (not transmission or clutch since those are proven to handle 300hp+) shouldn't be a big issue. It should be expected.

I dont think a stickier tire is going to do much damage alone - the tolerances aren't so tight that a bit more traction is going to destroy stuff. If so, then shame on Polaris. But I just don't think that is the case. They aren't in the business of selling stuff they have to fix all the time on their own dime.
 

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Belt drives on bikes have been proven very reliable .I don't here a lot of complaints about belt failures .The enemy of belt drives is gravel roads .Stay off them and you will be fine .If you know anything about ecotec motors , you know that you can turbo a 2.4 and get 400 Hp without breaking things .Hp tuners is available , check out Hahn Racecraft .You are going to fry that Kenda rear tire long before you tear up a belt .Most Spyder owners replace worn out Kendas with car tires .I don't understand why they are used on these vehicles .
 

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This belt's pretty durable. I wouldn't get afraid of replacing it until you get near 100K miles.
 

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Someone is on one of the other threads saying these belts are going to fail if a person isn't easy on them. This belt failure is going to drive the re-sale value to the basement. You all on this thread seem to have confidence that it will hold up fine. I hope you guys are right.............
 
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