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Discussion Starter #1
when trying to optimize the suspension on our slingshots there are really only 2 major things that can be changed. The first is to replace the coil overs and the options seem to be well documented as to what they are for. you can buy touring coil overs for more comfort on long rides, you can buy sport coil overs if you want petter track performance or there are adjustable for those who want to change things as conditions change

when it comes to the sway bar we also have choices, we can stick with stock which has a stiffness of 360 lbs/in or we can go with the DDWworks which gives a choice of 460 or 570 lbs/in or we can get the twist dynamics which is the firmest at 650 lbs/in

the problem I am having is that the places that sell these after market options dont really give any information as to what types of applications each firmness option is best suited for - the write ups for the twist just seem to imply that stiffer is always better and the DDM just points out that it can be adjusted without saying why one would be better than the other.

can someone here help to enlighten me on the subject of these options? is twist right and is stiffer always better (please control the jokes)? Or can too stiff a sway bar cause increased understeer? is one of the options clearly better for "touring" and another clearly for track?

I would like to upgrade my suspension to be the best for "touring" and also for having fun in the twisties, but with the lack of information given by the sites selling these sway bars and the stiffer is better sales pitch I dont know which way to go heck I am not even 100% convinced that the stock sway bar isnt already the best for what I want

please, if you are knowledgable on this subject and specifically how it works on our three wheeled friends - help me learn

Thanks
 

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Personally, I've been happy with the stock sway bar, but then I was unaware how much a driving difference aftermarket coilovers would make. Based on your description, it doesn't sound like you need the extra stiffness of the TD bar. I'd think the DDM Works sway bar sounds like the better option since you have a slightly stiffer initial setting or a heavier mode for more demanding roads. The sway bar will firm up the front end, reducing how much it leans, but depending on which model aftermarket coilovers you bought, you might even be able to firm up/stiffen your front end ride w/o changing the sway bar.
 

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I have the Alpha Suspension which is JRI and driving it the last 2 days my SS vs my Vanderhall Venice the SS ride and handling
is really sweet even with stock sway bar.. Sure you could stiffen it up but the back roads here in NJ and Pa have so many roads that
have so many small pot holes /ruts that if you hit them now you grit your teeth. And funny I was thinking more stiffer sway bar or putting '
more clicks into stiffening the suspension until I hit those ruts and fixed pot holes and said to myself I am not racing any one but this thing still
out corners most cars as it is. And thinking the ride over these conditions really do not jar you sitting more the suspension and tire hitting that
upset me and saying after the ride why would I want anything harsher for road conditions ..
So not sure why you want a more stiffer sway bar or suspension but for every positive move there is a negative response to changes.
Chances are your tires /ball joints ect... will have more wear and tear..But only you can make those decisions on your equipment
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I just recently installed the JRI Grand Touring. the ride is much nicer now over the bumps, but it also corners much flatter already than it did stock. As to sway bar right now I am leaning toward the DDM it seems to cover the middle ground and offer options with its 2 settings. untill someone with more experience in these things can tell me the twist will not be going too far that is what I am thinking
 

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I understand that in the past couple of years Polaris changed the sway bar. I have been told that the shape is different and that may make a difference in the handling as well and may eliminate the need to use sway bar locks. As many know the sway bar locks were discontinues by Polaris on the SS a couple of years ago. Some have said for weight and some suggested that with the new shape of the Sway bar it is not needed. I do not know the answer but the two different sways may effect handling differently.
 

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And really with one rear wheel traction you will have a certain breaking point that rear tire can not handle if you keep pushing the front suspension.
So you have some flex ability right now with how most are setup that you can feel the lean in front and know you are getting close to
limit of what SS can do..But you start pushing front to points of not feeling the braking point and now you are out of control and not going
in forward motion. Just saying we all want more but most of us are not on race track but driving down roads that we do not know
and out of blue in tight turn is gravel that in most cases you could have made if you were setup and had the more softer suspension.
How do I know I fell with 2 wheeler in SD and driving like a 20 yr old at 65 yrs old and things happen.
So just trying to say most of us think we want more but can you really handle it if you come across conditions ..
I will leave it at that..LOL And see how many over the years I read about someone on forums.
 

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I think what harley said makes sense. I always want more but know that I will not use it on the roads I drive.
Also, the statement about softer suspension has merit. When you read JRI's published specs about their 2 way clicker adjustable shocks they state that in wet conditions to set the shocks to the -(minus) position to allow for more body roll thus reducing the chance of losing control. I think this also applies to any conditions where the limits are pushed. Granted, with stiffer settings you will decrease the body roll and spongy feeling but as Harley said the "limit" comes up fast and you may not have a chance to correct before the lateral traction gives way and you are heading someplace you do not want to be...Just saying be careful what you ask for....
 

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Discussion Starter #8
thank you all for your replies - perhaps restraint might actually be the best option, at least until I have really had a chance to learn what the JRI's can do.
 

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It is not what JRI's can do.. It is how much more you can man handle the SS into turns and come out and feel comfortable
and go back and push the limits to your ability of your machine.
It is not what someone tells you it can do with Suspension /swaybars but your ability with the equipment you have to
pushing the SS and feeling safe and controlled driving it.
You could have Indy car suspension under it but if you are not a person who understands or feels the equipment you added then you have
just wasted lots of money and probably not one who really pushes corners to limits even under stock conditions.
 

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Edward,
I hear you and understand. When I got the SS I was set on the JRI Sports as I saw myself utilizing them in all the corners. I also looked at changing sways and getting sway bar locks to get the max out of the SS.
I then started with the JRI 2 way Clickers so I could get the most out of the SS as my first major mod.
I learned fairly fast that I preferred the ride similar to the JRI Touring shocks about -55. I could have saved a few hundred if I had thought through what it was that I wanted and got the GT's. Instead, I was thinking with a 25 year old's mind and not a 71 year old mind. I know I can crank the shocks up IF needed but in the past month I have not done it and for overall riding I do prefer the smooth ride....I may utilize the upper settings at some point and it was worth it to me to know that "I could" if the opportunity presented itself and I was in my Walter Mitty mode. Enjoy the sling however you choose...
 

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Like the responses of all the guys here... Remember this some sway bars are solid, some not. The tension on that bar is the key to have the stable ride... Shocks help with their smooth ride as up and down motion. Sway bar control how the steering move as some part of the left and right, and at some point the way to keep both tires on the ground. Solid sway bar and adjustable shocks are the key to a better ride.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Okay, so why is solid better? If all other things are equal hollow should be lighter than solid and if the torsional stiffness were equal I would think lighter would be better.
 

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Okay, so why is solid better? If all other things are equal hollow should be lighter than solid and if the torsional stiffness were equal I would think lighter would be better.
the reason that Polaris have a hollow is to keep the weight to a minimal, remember it is sold as a motorcycle and to meet that the weight is cut. solid bar got a better resistant to bent... lets talk money, if the best one is solid the price (example)$5.00 . hollow the price is $3.00 is you order 50000 units... do the math.... you want the best get the Twist Dynimics bar and you will get a better solid and less money that the Polaris sell... you do the math....
 

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Discussion Starter #15
okay - so back to the original question - lets forget hollow or solid for the moment and lets focus on torsional stiffness - The DDMWorks bar is roughly 550 lbs and the Twist Dynamics is roughly 650 LBS - - - - - It seems from what I have read that going too stiff can actually hurt the handling of a vehicle - with stock being 350, the DDM offering 450 or 550 and then the Twist giving 650 - - - - is it safe to assume that going all the way to the 650 will not be too much?

has anyone actually run both the DDM and the Twist? has any testing been done? DDMWorks is a very well regarded manufacture of performance products so I feel they have trust-ability on their side - - do we even know who makes the Twist Dynamics branded bar?
 

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Which one is best really depends on your driving style. If you drive on public roads like you're on a closed race course, then you might want an extra stiff bar.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Which one is best really depends on your driving style. If you drive on public roads like you're on a closed race course, then you might want an extra stiff bar.
hehehe - I may want to drive that way from time to time, but most of the time I am not so wild. This is why I am thinking that for me the DDM bar might be the better choice. even in its lightest setting it is still 100 lbs/in stiffer than stock and I have the option of setting at 570 which is over 200 lbs/in stiffer. There seem to be plenty of people who are very satisfied with the DDM and it is the only one that is adjustable - - I also really like that the current version comes with built in stops to keep it from shifting from side to side - on the other bars you have to have additional clamps for this.

Anyway I still have time before I plan on making the purchase so this is not set in stone, but at this point I am really leaning toward the DDM - -

Thank you all here for your input - it has been great :)
 

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I know that Polaris changed the sway shape at least once. This might be taken into consideration as to where they started and where they are now. I was looking at sways a while back and realized that my 2018 was different than the 2016 and before. I can not tell you if it is better or worse. I tabled the sway decision for a while. I agree that most of Polaris's decisions come from going lighter...
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I know that Polaris changed the sway shape at least once. This might be taken into consideration as to where they started and where they are now. I was looking at sways a while back and realized that my 2018 was different than the 2016 and before. I can not tell you if it is better or worse. I tabled the sway decision for a while. I agree that most of Polaris's decisions come from going lighter...
I agree that weight has been a big issue for polaris, as they have added things like the top it seems they have had to cut weight in other areas. With my slingshot being a 2016 I feel safe in assuming that my sway bar has not been changed much from what was on 2015. When it comes to upgrading the sway bar weight is not an issue I am worried about, I just want what makes my slingshot handle the best for my driving style
 
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