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Discussion Starter #1
Just curious as to others thoughts on how to successfully tow/transport SS for longer adventuring with it's low ground clearance.
 

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I emailed Polaris asking if I could place the rear wheel on an auto dolly and tow it backwards. They responded saying low-angle flat trailer only, presumably due to the relatively low ground clearance and the wheelbase. Featherlite makes an aluminum trailer that's 8 ft wide/14 ft long, but being aluminum it is probably rather expensive. Tractor Supply has a 7 ft x 12 ft ATV trailer that may or may not hold the Slingshot since the Slingshot is a few inches longer than 12 ft. The rear ramp would need to be removed, although this would change the trailer's balance, and a longer ramp would be needed to accommodate clearance beneath the vehicle as it crosses the rear of the trailer.
Personally, if the rear suspension can hold the vehicle, I think towing it backwards (rear wheel on tow dolly and front wheels on the ground) would be the easiest and cheapest route to go.
 

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I plan to use this. The trailer is an Alumna 7712T. It's 77" wide and 12' long. If it will haul a crashed Miata, it should handle a Slingshot. My 2013 Jeep MOAB is only rated for 2000# but I have hauled a lot more than that with it. The Jeep will soon get heavier Rubicon springs. The trailer only weighs 600#. The tractor was a little too heavy but it was ok. It hung over the back and front but the Police never noticed. Not something I do everyday. The T in 7712T stands for Tilt. No ramps required. The tilt feature cost a few hundred dollars extra but was well worth it in time saved loading and unloading.

SamM
 

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Discussion Starter #4
My concern with the 12' trailers mentioned is the short railing around the front. The SS specs say the unit is 12.46' so the front would need to overhang a little. My concern is that the nose of the SS may not clear. You could backup onto the trailer, but that would move the CG toward the rear of the trailer wheels which is not good for towing and certainly wouldn't work with the tilt trailer. Seems like the solution may have to be a longer trailer.
 

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The width and ground clearance seems to be the problem. Need a wide and low trailer. Best to just drive it to your destination. :)
 

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I also wonder if I could have a local metal shop weld on some brackets (preferably removable) so I could use a simple tow hitch that attaches to the brackets.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
NDV . . That trailer looks good. I am guessing based on photo that it is 14' x 82" wide. I wonder if the had reasonable clearance with the ramp??
 

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What brand is that trailer? I tried to do a search but could not find that name. It looks like just the right size and light weight. any ideas? thanks
 

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Thanks, I checked it out and it does seem like the right trailer. Do you know any places in the Midwest (Illinois etc) that have good prices on trailers? on this one? I searched the internet but they all over the country and you need to call for prices. Thanks for the help.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
It looks like most local Powersport dealerships carry or can order the Triton trailers. I am going to call my local Powersport dealer this morning and check on base price . .
 

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In the Midwest there is a good option for factory direct trailers - R&R in Three Rivers, MI. I purchased my all aluminum snowmobile trailer from them and they are very competitive on pricing as they cut out the middle man. Some people prefer to have a local dealer to go to for issues (with enclosed there is always something) but I find that I have been able to repair minor issues myself.

Link to their website and aluminum utility trailer page: http://www.aluminumtrailers.org/quality-trailers/utility-trailers/

Download the spec sheet to see the available options. A UT716A would do the job for sure - 82" bed width and 192" bed length with a rear ramp. All aluminum floor. The UT716 is the same trailer with a treated plywood deck if you need to save some cash.

Purchased my enclosed trailer from them last fall, they built it and I paid a transporter to pick it up and deliver it to my house. Very nice trailer for the money. Over the first season of use I only had one issue which was a problem with the aluminum side door hinge broke (they source the door from a supplier). They sent me a new hinge and I replaced it myself. Here is a picture of my trailer right after it was completed prior to shipping. Fully finished inside with smooth walls and diamond plate, lighting, helmet cabinet, full size spare tire. So far I am pretty impressed with it. and recommend them to anyone looking for a competitive bid. Just give them a call and they will build you a quote pretty quickly.
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Just FYI. When I was pricing trailers I looked at everything including Featherlite, Aluma, Triton, Stealth, R&R, Lightning, Neo and a few others. There are definitely differences between trailers but the thing you really have to pay attention to are the options. For instance, the Stealth trailer I have (pictured above) I use for hauling my RZR's and ATV and soon the SS. Stealth can and will manufacturer anything from a very basic "low-cost" model to a fully optioned and upgraded everything top-end model.

My Stealth Predator comes in on the upper end of their model range with upgraded framing everywhere, upgraded 5K pound torsion spring axles, thicker aluminum skin sidewalls, fully finished interior, full stainless exterior hardware, bar lock doors all around. So it compares and exceeds for example the Aluma or Triton's in normal configurations but still cost me quite a bit less than those models. Once I configured an Aluma or Triton with all the same options their prices were not just a little bit more but thousands of dollars more. Same with the Featherlite. The reason I went with R&R for the sled trailer was to simply eliminate dealer markup.

JD
 

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It will go. Just keep trailer hooked to vehicle. Then jack up the front of trailer a bit. It will lower the back gate and reduce the angle.

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