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It could be but molybdenum disulfide normally used as the base of that additive is not magnetic. This selection is by design because you want that additive to stay solvent and not plate out. I am not sure what the gunk on the drain plug is, but there is a fair bit of it. I wonder if there is anything else that is ferrous in the oil? It just might be very fine particles from the bearings due to normal wear. If that is the case I will keep changing the oil ever 5 K to 10 K. It takes 20 minutes and cost $11 bucks so no big deal.
 

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There was a post that stated it was a "finishing" additive to finish machining the gears. I guess it takes 50k miles to complete the process?
 

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There was a post that stated it was a "finishing" additive to finish machining the gears. I guess it takes 50k miles to complete the process?
I have a very difficult time believing there is any finishing additive. It would be very destructive to the bearings. I also have a problem with their oil change schedule, the oil may retain some lubrication capability for 50,000 miles but it would be so filthy from normal wear the bearings wouldn't be happy.
 

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Most gear sets leave small partials that a magnet will catch when breaking in or wearing in take your choice and the black in the oil is I would think normal
 

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The real question is when the bearings fail in the axle are they replacing it with the knowledge of knowing it's just going to fail again.

Also, when they replace the angle driv, you just have the same unit that went bad to begin with, where is this getting us?

It's too bad we don't have a company spokesperson to keep us I formed with regard to a fix that is in the works.

It's a pisser we had so many trips planned and now I'm restricted to local riding. I'm not going out on a trip get stranded and have to live in a motel room for a week or leave my bike in another state unattended.

This sucks $25k for a new bike I can't trust on a road trip!
I would drive mine anywhere if I could just get my top
 

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There was a post that stated it was a "finishing" additive to finish machining the gears. I guess it takes 50k miles to complete the process?
IMO highly unlikely. Gear involutes are cut on precision CNC machines. I doubt wearing them in to mate is relevant. I do believe however a lower cost supplier may not bother to finish the surfaces of the gears to an ra < 0.010 perhaps hence the surfaces polish themselves over time leading to the very fine particles in the fluid. Perhaps someone knows the details.

I agree that oil changes on the angle drive are likely better than worse. It cannot hurt to get any metal fines from normal wear out of the case since obviously they are the same hardness as the gears. Logically companies providing oil will recommend changes. In sealed cases like this you don't have to worry about oil contamination from water or combustion by product, however I think changing this case oil is a good idea because there is only 700 cc of oil in there with no real area for fines to settle so they are likely to stay in solution. Once the buildup on the drain plug is so great it can no longer attract the particles out of solution. I will check it again in another 5000 miles and post again.

Kudo to those already over 10K miles - obviously making the time to ride. Would be great if someone who has not changed the oil from the start to post what it looks like at say 10K or 15K - if so inclined.

I will attempt a gear box fluid change very soon. It will be interesting to see what that looks like.
 

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Magnetic frail plugs will hold a very large amount also the fine partials will act as a lapping compound in the fluid smoothing the "rough" gears I would only worry about the bearings which I would think are a much harder material
 

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Out of probably two dozen bearing seminars I have sat through the one fact that gets hammered over and over 95% of premature bearing failures are caused by contamination.
 

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I have said it before. And I don't mean to sound childish. Change the fluid over to a fresh 75w140 of your choice. It doesn't matter what flavor. Then drive it like you just stole it. Put some serious pressure on it. It will get quieter. I have had several people message me about my theory working for them.

I'm not telling you to abuse it. Just run it at some pretty high 70 to 90 MPH speeds for a week or two or three. Another thing i did that seemed to speed up the wear process was when I take off I let it start moving (so I don't hurt the clutch) then lay into the throttle like the guy in front of you owes me money.

It will loosen up. And it will start to slowly quiet down. I have videos on YouTube of me running mine in December at Deals Gap. The whine is so bad you can't hear anything but the final drive. It was terrible. Compare that to any new video I shoot and you can't even hear it anymore. It will get better. It just takes a bit of loving abuse to mesh things together.

And the good thing about this theory is it will either work for you or it will get you a new final drive. I'm betting it will work for 95%. The other 5% may need replacing. Give it a shot. I wouldn't be afraid to drive even the loudest ones across the country. Actually my theory is based on the fact that you need to drive it across the country. And while driving it across the country you need to stress it all the way.
 
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Discussion Starter #153
Out of probably two dozen bearing seminars I have sat through the one fact that gets hammered over and over 95% of premature bearing failures are caused by contamination.
While we can skirt around the issues, we all have to grasp the fact our SS Angle Drive is "Broke" and needs a re-design by someone other than an ATV manufacture who designs off-road products. This is not a Victory motorcycle - which they also had major problems as well!

There is no reason we should be listening to all this racket and gear clatter and / or suffer from contamination being just a few months old with virtually no miles.

What really bothers me is; the fact Polaris continues to avoid the problem and not one word from Corporate to even acknowledge there is such a problem. Why are they not issuing some type of acknowledgment they are at least aware of the problem - every SS suffers with this exact problem, some far worse than others!
 

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I had the pleasure of picking up my Slingshot LE a few days ago - it was a 7-hour / 500 mile trip home through flat highways, mountains and even the miserable traffic of Atlanta GA. In any case, I enjoyed driving the bike, the great handling even in 90+ degree temperatures or driving through thunderstorms on rain slick highways, regardless - the Slingshot handled perfect.

I’ve been on bikes since I was 14 and pretty much owned everything out there at one time or another- Now in my later years, I’ve become somewhat picky as my past employment for 40+ years of pioneering, designing, and flying; hobby, aerial and military drones (www.rotory.com) makes me a bit more critical, so hopefully my bike is as near perfect mechanical-wise as it could be.

My last bike’s were a Can Am; RT & RTS Tour - I was looking for a 3-wheel bike to replace these but it had to be better! Well, I can happily say; the Slingshot was everything and more than I expected, even the Harley guys who hate everything have to look at this bike when it goes by, which by the way, I was not ready for the entourage of lookers and cell phone images I was about to witness - my good looking Slingshot might have been one of the contributing issues to the Atlanta traffic when I drove through. I can truly say this bike attracts more attention than my even BMW I8. Anyhow – what is not to love, the SS LE has great looks – plenty of power – comfortable - smooth – vibration-less, everything is perfect except for that damn noisy “90 degree drive” this problem took all those positives and shed a dark cloud on the whole platform.

I’m sure I don’t have to go into detail on this problem – there is thousands of posts on Forums and Google to confirm the Slingshot has a major problem. Let me just start off by saying; if you hear a noise coming out of a mechanical device, (transmission – diff – engine, pump, etc.) “there is something eating it alive” and sooner or later, it will fail. One has to question why Polaris made the decision to go ahead and release the bike with this drive problem.

While the dealers continue to tell customers; it’s just the belt braking in - we all know the sound of the belt – The noise we’re taking about here is mechanical in nature and clearly sounds off under load or when coasting. There’s a lot happening in this drive transferring mechanical load from one direction to another, plus the radial load of the belt being pulled back causing other loading issues.

One thing is for certain, there is no way the Polaris technicians just over-looked this problem, they heard it and they knew it would be a problem long before us mortals even seen the machine. If it was a decision of not wanting to push back release deadlines, or the fact they already ordered thousands of units, we’ll never know. In any case, Polaris decided to install them and here we are today with a major drive-line problem.

As my research confirmed that everyone has this problem, as guys pull the plugs on the 90 degree drives and change the oil in the gearbox, they are finding metal filings, chunks of metal, darkened lubrication and occasional failed bearings, it all but confirms the 90 degree drive design is failed and Polaris needs to step up to the plate and design and replace these failing units we all own. For myself, I can’t think of one car or motorcycle that has a mechanical whine or gear clatter noise so why should we accept this as normal in the Slingshot. If you bought a car and the diff made this racket, you would drive it straight to the dealer, in fact every differential that ever made noise in my cars eventually failed. Anyway you look at it – It’s “Broke” and needs to be fixed.

Regretfully, unless we all have to stand together and make enough noise, Polaris will not fix our problem. While I’m sure some bikes will last past the warranty period, this still puts us all in a bad position when we try to sell our bikes in the future with this problem branded on our foreheads and known by the entire industry.

Anyhow, I’m putting thread this up so we can have discussion - perhaps the moderators will make it sticky to hopefully make a statement to Polaris that we need to get the problem resolved. Please share your thoughts!

Regards

Mike

View attachment 17992
Mike my name Is Tom Paxton I strongly agree, I've been a mechanic all of my life and I know what a bad gear box sounds like and I can't believe the polaris engineers let this slide. I would be very interested in trying to get polaris to do something about this, if not voluntary then by legal action. I love everything about my SS except for the dark cloud of wondering when the gear box is going to fail , I traded my 2012 harley davidson in for the SS because I couldn't stand the awful engine and drive train noise and I don't mean the exhaust.I would be very interested in any Ideas you have on how to go about getting something done and yes I hope polaris reads this they really need to step up and fix this. If would like to correspond you can contact me at [email protected]

Thank you for your letter it is exactly how I feel
Tom
 

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Discussion Starter #155
I'm gain to do anything to have Polaris become responsible for the problems with both the defective "Angle Drive" and the failing "Axle Bearing" syndrome. Its shocking to me that after the number of complaints and work orders that Polaris has experienced that there has not been one word to the effect; "We're Looking Into It" or in fact anything so guys like us will have something or anything to look forward to regain our confidence in the bike.
 

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I'm gain to do anything to have Polaris become responsible for the problems with both the defective "Angle Drive" and the failing "Axle Bearing" syndrome. Its shocking to me that after the number of complaints and work orders that Polaris has experienced that there has not been one word to the effect; "We're Looking Into It" or in fact anything so guys like us will have something or anything to look forward to regain our confidence in the bike.
Every SS right angle drive that has been sold can fail and still be less than 10% of the transmission failures on the RZRs. The best part, it's been going on for 5 years. Figure out what percentage of SS having been sold with drive problems, not noise but actual problems, how many are actually affected? They play numbers and the cost to repair verses lost sales is not in our favor. The bean counters are the ones that got us into this pickle to begin with. The bean counters are the ones holding up the fixes.
 

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I had the pleasure of picking up my Slingshot LE a few days ago - it was a 7-hour / 500 mile trip home through flat highways, mountains and even the miserable traffic of Atlanta GA. In any case, I enjoyed driving the bike, the great handling even in 90+ degree temperatures or driving through thunderstorms on rain slick highways, regardless - the Slingshot handled perfect.

I’ve been on bikes since I was 14 and pretty much owned everything out there at one time or another- Now in my later years, I’ve become somewhat picky as my past employment for 40+ years of pioneering, designing, and flying; hobby, aerial and military drones (www.rotory.com) makes me a bit more critical, so hopefully my bike is as near perfect mechanical-wise as it could be.

My last bike’s were a Can Am; RT & RTS Tour - I was looking for a 3-wheel bike to replace these but it had to be better! Well, I can happily say; the Slingshot was everything and more than I expected, even the Harley guys who hate everything have to look at this bike when it goes by, which by the way, I was not ready for the entourage of lookers and cell phone images I was about to witness - my good looking Slingshot might have been one of the contributing issues to the Atlanta traffic when I drove through. Anyhow, what is not to love, the SS LE has great looks – plenty of power – comfortable - smooth – vibration-less, everything is perfect except for that damn noisy “90 degree drive” this problem took all those positives and shed a dark cloud on the whole platform.

I’m sure I don’t have to go into detail on this problem – there is thousands of posts on Forums and Google to confirm the Slingshot has a major problem. Let me just start off by saying; if you hear a noise coming out of a mechanical device, (transmission – diff – engine, pump, etc.) “there is something eating it alive” and sooner or later, it will fail. One has to question why Polaris made the decision to go ahead and release the bike with this drive problem.

While the dealers continue to tell customers; it’s just the belt braking in - we all know the sound of the belt – The noise we’re taking about here is mechanical in nature and clearly sounds off under load or when coasting. There’s a lot happening in this drive transferring mechanical load from one direction to another, plus the radial load of the belt being pulled back causing other loading issues.

One thing is for certain, there is no way the Polaris technicians just over-looked this problem, they heard it and they knew it would be a problem long before us mortals even seen the machine. If it was a decision of not wanting to push back release deadlines, or the fact they already ordered thousands of units, we’ll never know. In any case, Polaris decided to install them and here we are today with a major drive-line problem.

As my research confirmed that everyone has this problem, as guys pull the plugs on the 90 degree drives and change the oil in the gearbox, they are finding metal filings, chunks of metal, darkened lubrication and occasional failed bearings, it all but confirms the 90 degree drive design is failed and Polaris needs to step up to the plate and design and replace these failing units we all own. For myself, I can’t think of one car or motorcycle that has a mechanical whine or gear clatter noise so why should we accept this as normal in the Slingshot. If you bought a car and the diff made this racket, you would drive it straight to the dealer, in fact every differential that ever made noise in my cars eventually failed. Anyway you look at it – It’s “Broke” and needs to be fixed.

Regretfully, unless we all have to stand together and make enough noise, Polaris will not fix our problem. While I’m sure some bikes will last past the warranty period, this still puts us all in a bad position when we try to sell our bikes in the future with this problem branded on our foreheads and known by the entire industry.

Another major problem is the failing bearing syndrome on the rear axle, this problem as well has taken the joy and confidence of any "out of town" ventures without the worry of a break-downs resulting in roll-backs, living in a motel and or leaving your bike with an un-experenced Polaris ATV dealer on the road.

Anyhow, I’m putting thread this up so we can have discussion and hopefully make a statement to Polaris that we need to get the problem resolved. Please share your thoughts!

Regards

Mike

View attachment 17992
I'm new to the group, I live in Hawaii and have a 2016 Sling.
I have this real bad whining noise in the rear end and I've read other post about it.
I went to Montgomery Powersports the only dealer on Ohau and they told me they had to adjust the belt.
They charged me 0ver $200 even though I have the extended warrantee because they said they had to take my Corbin side bag off to adjust the belt.
It quieted it for a little bit than back louder than ever.
at first when I came back they said it was my ad on roof and spoiler rattling than I showed them the noise again then they said it was a design flaw and nothing could be done about.
I contacted Polaris and they said I would have to get the dealer to report it because they said they never heard of a problem with the noise in the rear.
So I went back to dealer and they said they would send a report.
Called Polaris again they said the dealer said the noise was from my mods, roof, spoiler and stainless header and muffler.
The Polaris rep got very rude and said maybe go to Better Business Bureau and Federal trade Commission.
Would all the people with this same problem like to get together and maybe finally get Polaris to do something about it?
:cursing:
:cursing:
:cursing:
:cursing:

PS.
Since it is a design flaw, if we all got together and filed a complaint we might get some resolve.
Polaris denies it even has any problem but we and the dealers know it is a flaw.
For 20,30,40 thousand dollars purchase price this problem should be fixed.
It seems like everyone is afraid to have this taken care of by Polaris? Why?
I've had Harleys, corvettes, convertibles and loud pipes and never had such a loud, squealing and irritating sound to contend with.
 

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Congrats on getting a Slingshot. As you are new to the game and probably only read a little bit about the good and the bad, keep in mind 99% of the bad makes it onto the forums. The rest of us have had little to no issues and never post online about it. That being said here's the correct info on the angle drive:

1: Yes it's a little noisy. Changing the weight to something heavier will help, but it's a bevel drive gearbox that sits right underneath you. Any noise it may make will be amplified because there is only a thin piece of plastic between you and the drive. Passenger vehicles obviously can be designed different so this type of noise is blocked. Best thing to do is switch the fluid to something 75w-140 or heavier to help.

2: Yes the belts make noise when dirty. A lot of people will argue and claim it's the rear axle bearing when actually it's a dirty belt. Clean the belt regularly with soap and water (use a bristle brush to scrub cogs of belt).

3: Belt tension. Here is where it gets interesting. Belt tension from the factory has proven in some, maybe most, instances to be too tight. This can cause undo load on the rear axle , and angle drive, which will cause bearings to possibly fail and/or just noise from loading the axle with too much belt tension. Running the belt 4-5mm looser than spec has seemed to help alleviate this problem with no side affects. While you could do this yourself, if you have a reputable dealer that will rest belt tension to this spec it'd be good idea as it requires some odd tools.

4: Rear axle bearings. As it would seem according to the internet everyone is having trouble with bearings. That is simply not true. Very few actually have had the bearings replaced. Couple things - the early models had a single axle nut that could come loose and cause the axle to not stay in position which would cause problems. This combined with a belt that was too tight would obviously cause damage to bearings. Then came the swingarm recall. When performing this procedure it was possible that the tech would not get the assembly 100% and the rear sprocket would not be seated on the axle properly. When everything got locktited down this way it would end up causing the same problem as the early models - too much load on the rear bearings and guess what - noise and trouble. Some Slingshots had to have this procedure redone to solve the problem - which Polaris was not liable for because it was the dealerships responsibility to get it done correctly.

As you have said you have mods on your machine - which may or may not have been loose causing noises. If everything is tight and checks out, you can have the fluid changed out to something heavier, clean the belt, loosen the belt, and that's the best it will be. :)
 

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My turbocharged Slingshot has had no bearing issues, and they're under a lot of load.

The other, mostly stock Slingshot has had 2 rear end replacements and the bearings keep going bad. One solution is to machine out the rear end and put Timkin bearings in. In my opinion it's a poor design and worse execution (Chinese low-tolerance casting, weak Chinese bearings, poor quality Chinese bearing grease).
 
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