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Sport Rider Inc messaged me on the 25th informing me of the recall telling me to take it to a local dealer or make a road trip to see them...love these guys and if it was practical to road trip it up there believe me I would!!! Thanks Scott I have an appt scheduled next week at Mancuso!
 

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DKF if you take the unit back to the dealer where you got it you may want some HEATED gear. But it would be a nice road trip, maybe
more so in May/June.
EJ if I had the time I would do it in a heartbeat!!! On my way back I would certainly pass thru Indiana to see you @Painter and the rest of my buddies!!!
Another Wisconsin to Texas trip in a "cooler" climate!!!
 

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Cruising down a Wisconsin freeway (in December), I see something in the mirror:
100.jpg


Really? I turn around:
120.jpg

(Now I know why the rear end makes that sound: hover-drive!)

But it didn't last long:
500.jpg


Turns out it was @WI_Squirrel. Squirrels are fast, and it took some quick shifting to catch her. We took an exit and hit a stoplight at the bottom of the ramp, I asked where she was headed. She replied, "Wanna wash my dirty bits?"

Uh....what?
...Recompose...

"Sure."


Never trust a squirrel.







600.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter · #86 ·
Don't forget about the hood pads and backup camera. "IF" Polaris stands behind all of these problems. It will more than likely RESTORE my faith in Polaris. as of right now I don't EVER plan on buying another Polaris product.
Hood pads are definitely warranty-able and replaceable. Schedule with your dealer to have them replaced if they are missing.
 

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I too will stay with my Uplock instead of the double axle nut..
100_1013.JPG
 

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As for the headlight recall, VMS did that and now my Head Light Cut Off switch will no longer turn off my head lights?? HMMMM Any Ideas??
 

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Well, today was the day. Driving on the freeway at 3:35am and the lights went out. 62°F, actual hood vent installed (a custom job from @Bob Runman, which does evacuate heat from the engine bay), and it still happened. Was never notified of the recall, and given the temperature is usually not that warm up north it didn't seem a priority. Now it is.

 

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Well, today was the day. Driving on the freeway at 3:35am and the lights went out. 62°F, actual hood vent installed (which does evacuate heat from the engine bay), and it still happened. Was never notified of the recall, and given the temperature is usually not that warm up north it didn't seem a priority. Now it is.

Hate to hear that for you! On a different topic though, MAN your SS looks shines GREAT! I guess from the look of yours, you must be using some really good wax on it? I know you're bummed about your current problem and I can't blame you for that. But whenever you get around to it, I'd love to hear what you use on it to make it look so good! Anyhow, I hate to hear about the problem, keep us updated, sling on and great looking shine!
 

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@jacjac171,

Eh, that's just one of many problems this unit has had. It's still a great ride despite the down-time, and Polaris has covered everything under warranty so far, although FUEL Powersports in West Bend, Wisconsin did some great work ensuring that would properly happen in a timely manner. I have a new list for them... :cigar:

Credit also goes to forum members for helping troubleshoot and find solutions that could be relayed to the dealer to assist them in repairing new and interesting problems.

A digital multi-meter showed the headlight issue stemmed from a failed headlight relay, the fuse is good. The horn relay was swapped and all is fine, I can yell louder than the stock horn anyway... I'll call the dealer so they can order a headlight recall kit.

Thank you for the compliment! I used no wax, just a wash and dry.

The clear coat and paint are necessarily thin, so extra care is taken to not grind any dirt into the finish. Junkman2000 on YouTube developed a two-bucket wash that I use with minor variation to minimize scratching--that man has become the easiest to understand expert that I've found.

Hopefully free time will come my way so CQuartz and then a layer of wax can be used.
  • Wash
  • Clay the clearcoat
  • Use a mild cutting compound to remove the scratches put in while claying
  • Polish
  • Apply CQuartz
  • Wax
The wax sheds water and dirt, and the less dirt there is to remove the better, as dirt is an abrasive that ruins the finish. The wax protects the CQuartz from being scrubbed off. CQuartz protects the clearcoat from being damaged by the abrasive dirt. The clearcoat protects the paint. Each soft layer we add is sacrificial, protecting the next.

None of that will protect against stone damage, nor keep the Slingshot from wadding up in a wreck. It extends the life of the finish by helping protect against micro-abrasion and ultra-violet damage. Bug bodies will come off easier, and bird splat won't react with the clearcoat until it has gotten past the other barriers. The slick finish will keep dust from sticking to a fair degree, and rinsing the car will pull the water off therefore drying the car. The work and expense is worth it since I value the finish.

Thanks again for the feedback!

Perfect cleaning tool for the Sling Rims

 

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@jacjac171,

Eh, that's just one of many problems this unit has had. It's still a great ride despite the down-time, and Polaris has covered everything under warranty so far, although FUEL Powersports in West Bend, Wisconsin did some great work ensuring that would properly happen in a timely manner. I have a new list for them... :cigar:

Credit also goes to forum members for helping troubleshoot and find solutions that could be relayed to the dealer to assist them in repairing new and interesting problems.

A digital multi-meter showed the headlight issue stemmed from a failed headlight relay, the fuse is good. The horn relay was swapped and all is fine, I can yell louder than the stock horn anyway... I'll call the dealer so they can order a headlight recall kit.

Thank you for the compliment! I used no wax, just a wash and dry.

The clear coat and paint are necessarily thin, so extra care is taken to not grind any dirt into the finish. Junkman2000 on YouTube developed a two-bucket wash that I use with minor variation to minimize scratching--that man has become the easiest to understand expert that I've found.

Hopefully free time will come my way so CQuartz and then a layer of wax can be used.
  • Wash
  • Clay the clearcoat
  • Use a mild cutting compound to remove the scratches put in while claying
  • Polish
  • Apply CQuartz
  • Wax
The wax sheds water and dirt, and the less dirt there is to remove the better, as dirt an the abrasive that ruins the finish. The wax protects the CQuartz from being scrubbed off. CQuartz protects the clearcoat from being damaged by the abrasive dirt. The clearcoat protects the paint. Each soft layer we add is sacrificial, protecting the next.

None of that will protect against stone damage, nor keep the Slingshot from wadding up in a wreck. It extends the life of the finish by helping protect against micro-abrasion and ultra-violet damage. Bug bodies will come off easier, and bird splat won't react with the clearcoat until it has gotten past the other barriers. The slick finish will keep dust from sticking to a fair degree, and rinsing the car will pull the water off therefore drying the car. The work and expense is worth it since I value the finish.

Thanks again for the feedback!

Perfect cleaning tool for the Sling Rims

WOW, AWESOME AWESOME INFO! And yours really did POP in your picture of it. I've heard of the clay method before but I sure would have been scared to death to try it on the SS. But after what you have said as well as the video, it looks like a mighty good way to do it.

I was told from the get go at the dealership to be very careful what you use to clean the SS. Ive got a couple of Seadoo's and the finish on those are equal to the SS. Both will scratch REAL easy if you're not careful with what your doing and using for sure! At any rate, yours does look really good and you can tell you take a lot of time keeping her clean! Well, good luck with issue youre having and THANKS again for the info!
 

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Update: FUEL has three headlight warranty kits in stock. They asked for the complete list of issues and said to bring it in, they'd be happy to work on it. They also mentioned the axle nut is a Tech Tip, so it only gets replaced if there's a problem (one of four common problems I don't yet have). Which brought me to the belt tension and final-drive bearing which I had been told "is normal" from when it started at around 700 miles. "I'll drive the f-er till it drops, if that's what Polaris wants, right now the wear is at level Popcorn." The service guy laughed and said they'll look at it.

Mind you, Polaris has covered all repairs under warranty to date, which is much better than expected for a concept vehicle. I do keep great notes and support the dealer, plus try to make their warranty claims easy, such as reporting the radio reception problem from the first time it came in, and every time thereafter, in writing. Much of this has to do with a dealer doing the job we all hope they will, even when it isn't easy.


Junkman's method doesn't actually take much longer than the traditional scrubbing method, since the bugs and dirt get soft while soaking, and it's much less work. The soap and foamer work well together, about 1/15th Mequire's soap and the rest water in the foamer container. The results speak for themselves. (Note Junkman uses a different soap, I do things slightly differently than he, but not to improve his method nor save cost, only to make his method work well for myself.)

 
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