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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys,

I noticed someone posted videos on how the dealers were trained on maintaing the SS. I watch the videos and seems that its going over just basic items; oil, fluids, plugs, air cleaner, etc... So what do the dealerships do when they have electrical issues, motor, or tranny problems? I didn't see any of that really in the video, and how long would we wait for those issues to be fixed if they occured? Reason I am asking is I have a SS on order and large down payment done for my SL. I am seeing alot of concerns with QC and rev/idle.

Are the dealerships capabable and trained to replace/repair engines, trans, electrical components, and other more tech items? Obviously I mention this since its a GM motor and tranny and the Polaris dealerships are not like "GM certified techs"..... I have a Polaris 570 ATV also and that obviously is not an issue since the Polaris dealer works on those everyday and for years beyond counting...

What is everyones thoughts on this or does anyone know?
 

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Hey guys,

I noticed someone posted videos on how the dealers were trained on maintaing the SS. I watch the videos and seems that its going over just basic items; oil, fluids, plugs, air cleaner, etc... So what do the dealerships do when they have electrical issues, motor, or tranny problems? I didn't see any of that really in the video, and how long would we wait for those issues to be fixed if they occured? Reason I am asking is I have a SS on order and large down payment done for my SL. I am seeing alot of concerns with QC and rev/idle.

Are the dealerships capabable and trained to replace/repair engines, trans, electrical components, and other more tech items? Obviously I mention this since its a GM motor and tranny and the Polaris dealerships are not like "GM certified techs"..... I have a Polaris 570 ATV also and that obviously is not an issue since the Polaris dealer works on those everyday and for years beyond counting...

What is everyones thoughts on this or does anyone know?
While the SS is a bit foreign to some motorcycle or offroad sports dealers, Polaris also maintains a high standard of service quality in their line. There are frequent training classes to certify mechanics in the latest updates and specialties from Polaris, and the best mechanics of any stripe are expected to be flexible when servicing different kinds of lines like PWC and offroad vehicles. While some mechanics do have a specialty, the best shops hire technicians that have wrenched or schooled in more than just powersports products.

While I cannot speak for each dealer individually, you should check if yours is MSD Gold or Silver certified, as these are the upper levels of accreditation Polaris expects from techs servicing their vehicles.

In addition to providing the training videos, Polaris has also provided a comprehensive service manual for the SS and has an immediate response time with their Ask Polaris dealer service if a question cannot be answered, or a more experienced tech or engineer from Polaris HQ is needed to step in.

We have a tech at our shop that can wrench on just about anything we throw at him, whether a bike, a sled, or a car, as he also maintains our fleet vehicles if a serious problem occurs with them. A technician like that is very, very valuable.

I hope this helps!
 
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I agree with Kip. My dealer that will be servicing mine doesn't sell the Slingshots, but they will be servicing mine. The guy in charge of the back room is an engine builder, racer and top notch all around mechanic. I watched him tear apart a turbo V6 Audi one afternoon, and the guy knows his stuff. He's the only guy that touches my Indian.
 

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Two questions for all you who may have experienced the same thing I read in other threads.
1. I checked my battery ground lead and like everyone else found it to be very loose. The problem is how do I get my hand/wrench into the space to try to tighten down the neg ground? I even thought of going from the swing arm side. I don't want to get stranded so I want the connection tight. Can't go to the dealer, 80 miles away in the cold/snow. PS I also want to connect a battery tender to the battery, that is why I checked my battery connections.
2. My backup camera has not worked from the day I got it from the dealer. Any suggestions? Yes I will take it to the dealer for my 500 mile check up, but that will not happen until spring (April/May).
 

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Brian, you will have to take the cover off the battery compartment, then take off the plastic block securing the battery in place, remove the battery cables from the top of the battery and then move it over it out of the way, or just take it out. When taking off the battery cables always remove the negative cable first. You might try just removing that plastic block first and see if you can move the battery around enough to tighten that battery ground on that grounding post they use.
Tom
 

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Thanks Tom. I also thought about disconnecting the ground to the frame and sliding the battery out, than tightening the neg battery terminal , sliding the battery back in and than re connecting the ground to the frame. Any thoughts? Can't work to much in garage, its like 15℉ out.
 

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I feel your pain Brian, that's a real bitch to try and work in cold like that.
The way you suggest will work just fine.

About all I can suggest is take the two torx screw out, then you need to carefully pry the center push pins out a little, grab the heads with some needle nose pliers and pull those out. Then just pull back on the battery box and you are there. I am not sure which negative cable end they are referring to as being the problem area but the one on the bottom end of the negative lug on the frame it a toughie to get at, so you might as well,,remove the box,,,run inside warm up, then go back out, remove the negative and positive terminals. Take battery and run back to warm up, then run back out and tighten that negative cable on that long stud.
If you are going the have the battery sitting in that kind of cold, you might as well leave it out and in the house. A dead battery will indeed freeze if it is in an uncharged condition. If you have power in the storage area then you can just reinstall the battery and attach a "battery tender" to it and forget about it for the winter. It will automatically keep the battery in a fully charged state.

Tom
 

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well not the easiest thing to get out I got the push pins out by getting a real small screwdriver and just pryed one end and then the other end and then I could get it with my fingers pop it out. Pliers did not work for me.
 

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After I read so many complaints about the negative battery cable clamp being loose, I decided to check mine..."just in case" and it was loose and probably somewhere, sometime, it woulda just popped off from vibration and I woulda been stranded somewhere, not knowing what the problem was. What Brian and Tom said is absolutely right. Once you get the battery cover panel off it is very easy and quick to remedy the loose cable clamp. I found it very easy to remove the black nylon triangular-shaped battery retainer wedge, remove the negative cable where it attaches to the frame of the Slingshot and just slide the battery to the left until you can get to the clamp nut. It's the actual battery-end of the cable and the battery is what I call an "old fashioned top-post battery" with the round posts made outta lead, about 3/4" in diameter. Just take a 10 mm wrench and tighten it down snug. Hope this helps!
 

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@Brian

If I were you, I would check the rear view camera connections/plugs at both ends. It plugs into the back of the infotainment system, which is easy to remove and at the back where that plastic piece is also easy to remove.

That would be a good start and I wouldn't be surprised if it just didn't get plugged in.
 

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Maybe someone on this forum could make this section into a "sticky" and can be added too from time to time for those that have problems and solved them. It would be a big help to those that can wrench a bit.

Tom
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I gave my dealership the list of known issues and they checked over the whole unit for me.
 

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TravAz how do you pop the back up camera off to check the connection? Do I just pry up on the bottom of the camera plastic? or do I need to remove more plastic panels before it comes up/off? I watched the tech videos a while back but they were taking all the panels off and I need to watch them again. The problem is that it is very cold here now and I don't want to crack cold plastic parts.
thanks for the info
 

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TravAz how do you pop the back up camera off to check the connection? Do I just pry up on the bottom of the camera plastic? or do I need to remove more plastic panels before it comes up/off? I watched the tech videos a while back but they were taking all the panels off and I need to watch them again. The problem is that it is very cold here now and I don't want to crack cold plastic parts.
thanks for the info
That piece just clips into the plastic below.

I would slightly heat up that piece with a hair dryer or heat gun and start prying at the top, working your way to the right or left as you move back towards you. I used a bit of electrical tape wrapped around a small flat head screw driver; as I didn't have a "trim removal" tool.

The plastic/body removal service video shows you this.
 

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I put a battery tender cable on my SL last week. When I checked the negative battery connection, it was a bit loose. I did not have to slide the battery out, I just used a socket extension with a universal and accessed it from the back end (in line with the rear tire). I took the nut off, added the battery connector and re-attached the nut. It worked well as the accessibility appeared to be very limited. I then attached the end of the tender with a zip strap to the breather hoses so it sticks out the back only an inch or two. As I also added a flap to keep the gravel off the swing arm, the battery tender connection hides behind the left end of it. I hope this makes sense. This likely belongs in the maintenance section, but I thought I would throw in my two cents!
 
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