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I don't know if anybody's already addressed this issue, but I discovered this, today. I noticed a discolored, worn 3/8" diameter spot in the top front of the aluminum valve cover. It's coming from inside the hood center front mounting screw for the fake louvers. I laid a paper envelope on the top of the engine and shut the hood. That screw head made a dent right through the envelope. I took the screw out, repeatedly, grinding more and more off of the head, until it wouldn't grab the T-25 torques driver. I screwed it in as much as I could with a small pair of channel-locks. Tested it with the envelope again and it was still making a small dent in it.
 

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I don't know if anybody's already addressed this issue, but I discovered this, today. I noticed a discolored, worn 3/8" diameter spot in the top front of the aluminum valve cover. It's coming from inside the hood center front mounting screw for the fake louvers. I laid a paper envelope on the top of the engine and shut the hood. That screw head made a dent right through the envelope. I took the screw out, repeatedly, grinding more and more off of the head, until it wouldn't grab the T-25 torques driver. I screwed it in as much as I could with a small pair of channel-locks. Tested it with the envelope again and it was still making a small dent in it.
This is a post I found from a long time ago:

"Auto Zone, bought a pack of black trim screws (they come in an assortment pack of #8 and #10). These look like wood screws with trim washers attached. I used a #10, removed the trim washer, and cut the point off. It is exactly the same size as the #10 torx screw that it will replace but it fits flush with the plastic. It still holds the vent down and will not touch the cam cover."
 

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I have heard of this where the hood is sitting too low and the front bumper is lined up with the hood so it looks like everything is okay but it's not.
 

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Presume that you have a 2015 model? Have you got all your hood pads in place? (1 each on the metal bracket , about front fender/wing location, and 1 center of hood by the dash?) If so, has the one by the dash bent (very flimsy metal.)
IF you do not have the new & improved hood pads, I suggest you get them. In your case, probably a warranty item. @Mr. Clean is correct- replacing the screw will work.
I know of 1 local person who had his valve cover replaced, via warranty, due to interference from the screw- his was so bad, it actually started to wear thru. If your wear is bad enough, your dealer may submit as warranty, as well.
Extreme dropping of the hood, when closing will cause the same problem, due to hood deflection.
 

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These parts you speak of HH, assume they are the "newer" fasteners Bob is supplying with the new hood insert from them (which I have one of waiting to go on)?
 

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HH-cap screws all over (that's hex-head, not hedgehog), no rivets, and black nylon spacers that raise the red anodized conical (not square) washers on the top side for a 3-D shadowed look. The black pearl is awesome, it really matches the sparkle of the body panels. It's one of the best additions on the Slingshot, lets the heat out when parked (reducing hood warping issues) and really makes the hood pop visually--unlike that plastic turd it comes with. Really easy to put in too, just do not get threadlock on anything other than the threads. I got a bit of threadlock on my thumb, wiped it off twice (and was aggressive about it), and the powder-coat on the hood insert still had an etched thumbprint matching mine in it! Etched! There was no getting it rubbed off because it actually reacted with the clear on the powder-coat. Got out the buffer and some cutting compound and it came right out, put on a lighter pad with polishing compound and it looks better than new.


 

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@Bob Runman did an awesome job of fabbing up what I wanted, which I give him a lot of credit for because it's not what he envisioned nor his style. It may not be your style either, which I totally accept, just as Bob accepted I wanted something specific and he made a work of art out of it.

To enlarge an image, just click it. There may also be a "popout" button in the upper right corner to make it bigger yet.

Hex-screws everywhere, no rivets--and look at that reflection! The screws mirror in the vent, even the washers show up clearly.
hv1.jpg

That's not dust, that's shine! It actually sparkles different colors depending on the angle, it's an amazing look in person.
hv2.jpg

See, it's not dust!
hv3.jpg

The fleck density matches the hood when viewed at the same angle as the hood.
hv4.jpg

Here's that 3-D look where the red washer looks like it's floating--it's really trick!
hv5.jpg
 

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This is a post I found from a long time ago:

"Auto Zone, bought a pack of black trim screws (they come in an assortment pack of #8 and #10). These look like wood screws with trim washers attached. I used a #10, removed the trim washer, and cut the point off. It is exactly the same size as the #10 torx screw that it will replace but it fits flush with the plastic. It still holds the vent down and will not touch the cam cover."

In addition, you can also take a dremel tool to the black plastic and shave some off where the screw gets inserted. This combination solved my issue of the valve cover being damaged.
 

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Just curious Hedgy, how does that beautiful insert work in a hard rain? Does the engine bay get drenched or dirtier from the open spaces? Just curious.
Admittedly, I was worried about your concerns myself, specifically the coil packs when standing still. Water does enter the vents under certain conditions, runs onto the coil packs, then onto the valve cover where it drains out the back. Design wise, this is an expected situation, as mist would blow up under the hood of a car with the same engine. The coil packs are waterproof and under mild acceleration the water runs out of the valley, and when parked indoors the engine heat cooks off any remaining moisture.

Where there could be a problem is when parking outside and facing downhill, as the water would pool around the coil packs. Since the engine is vented, there is no suction as the engine cools, so that's not a concern (until years later when the rubber dries out and doesn't seal well), however freezing temperatures and heavy ice formation might be a problem. For me that's not a concern, it might be for some people in Canada depending on the season and hardiness of the driver, and if they park facing down hill.

Regarding dirt, no problem. We had a rain storm with gale-force winds this week, and the Slingshot got caught while I was at work. A 1320 manifold was installed today and there was no more dirt collected on the valve cover than the vertical engine surfaces, which is to say "not much." The cover did show dirt "spotting," as did the rest of the Slingshot, but detailer and a microfiber cloth cleaned it all up in short order.
 

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I bought a powder coated valve cover and notice a slight rub almost immediately. I took a Drexel and shaved down the screw head so the torx wrench barely went in. I screwed it tight and put a piece of electrical tape in it. Problem solved.
 

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I don't know if anybody's already addressed this issue, but I discovered this, today. I noticed a discolored, worn 3/8" diameter spot in the top front of the aluminum valve cover. It's coming from inside the hood center front mounting screw for the fake louvers. I laid a paper envelope on the top of the engine and shut the hood. That screw head made a dent right through the envelope. I took the screw out, repeatedly, grinding more and more off of the head, until it wouldn't grab the T-25 torques driver. I screwed it in as much as I could with a small pair of channel-locks. Tested it with the envelope again and it was still making a small dent in it.
The most common cause for this is missing hood pads. Be sure to check all three and replace if missing. Before I realized that it was supposed to have hood pads, I had the same problem with the front hood scoop screw wearing into the valve cover. Remedy, remove the screw and replace with similar size brass screw with countersunk Phillips head. Top of screw now flush with the hood.
 

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open the hood and you can see 4 bump rubber stud
2 near of the flasher and 2 near of front grid.under the hood.

you do set the hight just enought to clear the valve cover by trial and error.

put the hight of the 2 front rubber bump stud (near of the front grid) at the maximum , just enought and check the gap between
the hood and front spoiler wing after the hood was closed.

sorry for my english i'am from Québec ,Canada
 
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