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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I wanted to see who else is having this smoke issue with their alpha turbo. It is driving me nuts and literally smells like a little oil burn.

Has anyone been able to resolve this issue?
 

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Oh, I smoke, and get that burning smell, like rubber or something is melting when it's not.

Full-disclosure, something might be up with my system, and the Slingshot is parked for tear-down and inspection. We don't know if there is something wrong, nor what might be wrong, but prudence suggests finding out before the engine detonates. I'm also pushing a lot of boost and making gobs of power, so if there is a problem this is most likely not something other people should be worried about. Also, Henry of Alpha has been awesome from the start of the turbo installation, during the 10,000 miles it's been run, and currently--support has been outstanding.​

@Blitzkrieg noted the turbo, charge tubes, and inter-cooler should be inspected and throughly cleaned before installation. They're part of the intake system after the filter, so any manufacturing or packing debris will eventually get into the cylinders and score the walls. I've added that pulling the charge tubes and looking into the inter-cooler can help diagnose some problems; oil, dirt, bearing spall are some indicators.

@FFShawn (Shawn from Fab Factory) mentioned there is no Positive Crankcase Ventilation valve, instead Polaris uses a very tiny hole as a "regulator." On Alpha kits this hole is drilled out, and when the turbo goes into boost the crankcase is under pressure instead of vacuum, pushing oil past the rings and into the cylinder, not to mention stressing the rings!

The easy solution is to install a PCV valve, which is a check-valve that prevents back-flow into the crankcase when under boost.

My boost comes on early, so assuming this is all correct, savaging the waste gasses from the cylinders is not happening efficiently, and the oil is being contaminated more quickly, necessitating oil changes every 2,500 miles. The proper solution would be to vent back to the intake before the compressor fan and run an oil catch-can.

I am convinced a good set of fail-safe gauges is highly valuable. I'm told repeatedly they're not necessary by people smarter than myself, so make your own decision on that one. @Macaws was a big help on the planning of the install.
 

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Running Grand Nationals always ran a PVC/1-way check valve.
At some point a methenol kit would be a great idea to keep you off the fence (detonation) linear sprayed as boost increases
 

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It can be a couple of different things and many people like myself don't have this consistent issue anymore. I say this, because it I park at a weird angle and the oil doesn't drain then it will happen. The last time this happened was several months ago in California. Come to think of it... I have also seen smoke while cruising very slowly in 2nd gear for a long period of time. No idea what that was about, but it cleared on the highway and never came back.

Check the below items out....
  • Make sure your hole is drilled into the intake manifold and done correctly. Clear the hole, but don't make it bigger or drill through the intake manifold completely. (some idiot actually did that; whoops)
  • Make sure you oil is level is correct and not over-filled.
  • Make sure you are on the most recent tune and that your AFR gauge isn't showing real rich conditions. Verify that it is indeed oil smoke and not a rich fueling issue.
  • Check you turbo oil lines. Make sure the drain line is set-up correctly and has a beautiful waterslide to the oil pan.
  • Pull your spark plugs and see how they are burning. Once they are out, use a bore scope to take a peak in the cylinder walls to see if there are any scratches. It wouldn't hurt to check compression on each cylinder too while you are at it.
  • Pull the pipe off of the front of the turbo and wiggle the shaft of the turbo to see if there is any play. If there is, then that it no good and you probably need a rebuild of that turbo.
Some additional good reading below on the 5858 Precision turbo and smoking issues. Yes I know, it is a Honda forum... Good info none the less.
Precision turbo 5858 - Honda-Tech
 

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At some point a methenol kit would be a great idea to keep you off the fence (detonation) linear sprayed as boost increases
Looked at the 50/50 water/methanol options today, and you're right. Problem is the block isn't built to handle that much power (in my opinion). It appears to be a cost-conscious Chinese MIM.

@TravAZ that's an awesome list! Any bore scope suggestions?
 

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Looked at the 50/50 water/methanol options today, and you're right. Problem is the block isn't built to handle that much power (in my opinion). It appears to be a cost-conscious Chinese MIM.

@TravAZ that's an awesome list! Any bore scope suggestions?
Whatever you have in your garage or can borrow from a friend. Those things are sure not cheap.

Probably easier to do a compression check first and if that looks good, then do the bore scope.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I did a compression test tonight and it was 175 all across the board. I don't have a bore scope unfortunately. I did pull the tube from intercooler to turbo and check for shaft play. I can only wiggle it maybe a finger nail thick back and forth
 

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You're good on compression it looks like.

I would keep on going through the list.

What oil do you run?

Also, post a pic of your drain line if you can.
 

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Did you drill your intake manifold and are comfortable with the results?
 
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Mobil1 full syn 5-30

Attached is pic of drain line
When Henry installed my turbo, he switched my oil over to Rotella T6 5w-40. He said it was important to use that oil with his turbo instead of Mobil1 or any oils comparable to Mobil1. He also was quite adamant about changing it out every 2,500 miles.
 

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When I called alpha this week they told me 5k oil change is fine as long as I'm using good quality synthetic oil. I got 3500 miles on mine. Turbo installed at 53 miles. I'm having all kinds of issues and getting response from alpha in ready to ditch the alpha and go with something else or just sell my ride and start over on a 17 SLR. I'm getting pre ignition when I drive it hard rought idle when warm and all alpha has told me was they are working with the tuner and will get back to me. It's been over a month.
Running lean due to something coming loose? Turbo bolts tight and all hoses in good condition?

Do you have a smart AFR gauge and boost reading? Alpha has said the gauges aren't necessary, but if an issue occurs they can save your engine, or at least give you a clue as to what's happening and not happening before things go sideways.

What do the plugs look like?

Air filter is clean, no damage?

What's your oil look like? Any discoloration? Any smell?

Did you pull a charge pipe and look at the intercooler intake?

What fuel are you running? Did the winter changeover affect it? Do you always use the same gas station?
 

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Running lean due to something coming loose? Turbo bolts tight and all hoses in good condition?

Do you have a smart AFR gauge and boost reading? Alpha has said the gauges aren't necessary, but if an issue occurs they can save your engine, or at least give you a clue as to what's happening and not happening before things go sideways.

What do the plugs look like?

Air filter is clean, no damage?

What's your oil look like? Any discoloration? Any smell?

Did you pull a charge pipe and look at the intercooler intake?

What fuel are you running? Did the winter changeover affect it? Do you always use the same gas station?
Everything looks tight. My oil drain is incorrectly routed to the front vs the rear but the shop that did the install is going to take care of that. It's also leaking oil at the 90 degree fitting. I was going to pull plugs today after work but I didn't have time before they were locking my bay door (I work at a dealer, chrysler) my fuel I get when my light comes on. I run premium. Get it from all over. I go through about 3 or 4 tanks a week. 56 mile commute one way to work. 3500 miles on it in 2 months. Oil does not smell like fuel at all. Color is slightly tinted on the dipstick but not even brown. I drive mostly highway 10 to 20 min in traffic of 20 to 40 mph then about 30 to 45 min of open highway each way to and from work. I would of installed the kit myself but it was crashed and the front end was already apart so I had the custom bike shop install it. I'll check the plugs tomorrow. I see the marks on every bolt they touched. I don't see any marking on the intake manifold bolts. What is the symptoms if they did not drill my intake?
I don't have a guage yet. Between buying it cash then crashing it on the way home 1 hour after buying it then not working for a week I'm still playing catchup. I used the 10k pain and suffering money to pay off debt rather then invest in my toy lol. I hate being a adult.
 

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Everything looks tight. My oil drain is incorrectly routed to the front vs the rear but the shop that did the install is going to take care of that. It's also leaking oil at the 90 degree fitting. I was going to pull plugs today after work but I didn't have time before they were locking my bay door (I work at a dealer, chrysler) my fuel I get when my light comes on. I run premium. Get it from all over. I go through about 3 or 4 tanks a week. 56 mile commute one way to work. 3500 miles on it in 2 months. Oil does not smell like fuel at all. Color is slightly tinted on the dipstick but not even brown. I drive mostly highway 10 to 20 min in traffic of 20 to 40 mph then about 30 to 45 min of open highway each way to and from work. I would of installed the kit myself but it was crashed and the front end was already apart so I had the custom bike shop install it. I'll check the plugs tomorrow. I see the marks on every bolt they touched. I don't see any marking on the intake manifold bolts. What is the symptoms if they did not drill my intake?
I don't have a guage yet. Between buying it cash then crashing it on the way home 1 hour after buying it then not working for a week I'm still playing catchup. I used the 10k pain and suffering money to pay off debt rather then invest in my toy lol. I hate being a adult.
Insurance payed for new frame but I had it repaired and used that money for the turbo. Dealer did a supplement claim for the rack and pinion having play in it and they said it aligned fine. They couldn't even tell my frame was repaired same with the insurance adjuster that went out to the dealer to look at it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Hopefully this will help it drain easier and cure my smoke issue??? I did notice today when I took the hose off a bit of oil was still in the line.
 

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I like the look of shorter. Less chances it can vibrate against anything. I didnt install mine so I haven't seen how the hose is built. What was involved in making it shorter? I don't think it would affect anything mechanically my making it shorter. Wonder why it was engineered and designed it that length. When I question the engineering of a product I always what to know first why it is the way it is. There is sometimes that I item it designed a certain way for a reason. With out knowing that I'm always reluctant to change the design
 

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Hopefully this will help it drain easier and cure my smoke issue??? I did notice today when I took the hose off a bit of oil was still in the line.
Alpha got back with me today on correct oil usage. In at 3500 miles so I figure im due. I'm going to try the rotella 5w 40. Then the next oil change I'll swap to copper plugs. I don't want to change 2 items at once then If it changes I won't know what item it was.
 
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