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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Drove it this past weekend. Drove fine, no issues. Went to take it out last night.
1. Key on. Everything lights up and all power works.
2. Press red button and nothing happens. No start.
*checked starter relay and swapped it out with turn signal relay to rule it out.

Then researched on here last night and found some good posts to try tonight,

*Located clutch switch under CPU above clutch. Took a wire and jumpered the plug on the harness side. No go.
*Checked battery negative cable and made sure all is tight and nothing is touching.
*Checked other fuses, and none of them is blown
*Pulled radio and check the plug to the red button. Nothing is loose. Button does light up. Check other wires while there and nothing burnt or out of the ordinary

I am stuck. Thought it would be the clutch switch but I jumpered that. Do the red buttons go bad? Any other thoughts or anyone had a similar issue? Is it possibly the jumper won’t work? I don’t want to rule out the clutch switch.
 

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Drove it this past weekend. Drove fine, no issues. Went to take it out last night.
1. Key on. Everything lights up and all power works.
2. Press red button and nothing happens. No start.
*checked starter relay and swapped it out with turn signal relay to rule it out.

Then researched on here last night and found some good posts to try tonight,

*Located clutch switch under CPU above clutch. Took a wire and jumpered the plug on the harness side. No go.
*Checked battery negative cable and made sure all is tight and nothing is touching.
*Checked other fuses, and none of them is blown
*Pulled radio and check the plug to the red button. Nothing is loose. Button does light up. Check other wires while there and nothing burnt or out of the ordinary

I am stuck. Thought it would be the clutch switch but I jumpered that. Do the red buttons go bad? Any other thoughts or anyone had a similar issue? Is it possibly the jumper won’t work? I don’t want to rule out the clutch switch.

I had the same problem tonight and found out it was the clutch switch, You have to jump the connector that doesn't have the coiled cord on it and it started right up and it wasn't in gear.
Randy
 

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Be sure you get the right side of the connector to jump, even though mine was in warranty, I had to pay to order a new switch tonight. Apparently they won't let me put it in under warranty unless I drive 500 miles round trip to let them do it.
Randy
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I had the same problem tonight and found out it was the clutch switch, You have to jump the connector that doesn't have the coiled cord on it and it started right up and it wasn't in gear.
Randy

Hey Randy. I did jumper it. Took a 3 inch wire. Unplugged the switch above the clutch pedals. The coiled cord goes to the switch on the clutch pedal. The other side goes into the harness. I put my jumper on that one. Tried it and the red button does nothing. No click, nothing, just lights up. I have a dealer about 25 miles away, but was hoping to at least diagnose it. No engine codes either.
 

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Well , if you jumped the non colled side of the disconnected connecter then you have taken the clutch out of the system. I have a 2018 SS if that makes a difference. Maybe you have a weak battery ?? I read something about low voltage shutting down the system ?? Other than that, I would take it to the dealer. In my case it 250 miles to my dealer.
 

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I'm still trying to figure out the best way to get the clutch switch out to replace it when I get the new one. anybody??
 

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Some folks changed the magnetic brake switch to a conventional mechanical switch. the clutch uses the same switch, so you could probably try that if you don't want to stick with the Polaris solution. Try searching the forum for "mechanical brake switch". Keep in mind though, that if anything even remotely associated with the switches goes bad, Polaris will likely blame the mechanical switch and deny warranty coverage.
See attched file for info from the 2015-17 Service manual.
 

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Thanks BKL, I didn't see that pdf last night, must have been tired. That will work just fine now. I have the service manual but never thought to look in the transmission section. Thanks for bringing it to my attention.
 

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Since I haven't received my clutch switch yet, and I need to jumper the clutch switch to start, can I leave the jumper in there and still drive it, or after I get it started ,plug the connecters back together ? I can't seem to get any continuity from the switch moving the clutch pedal in and out.
Randy
 

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I don't know if the clutch switch serves any purpose beyond not allowing the engine to start in gear. If it doesn't, then leaving it jumpered shouldn't hurt.
 

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Drove it this past weekend. Drove fine, no issues. Went to take it out last night.
1. Key on. Everything lights up and all power works.
2. Press red button and nothing happens. No start.
*checked starter relay and swapped it out with turn signal relay to rule it out.

Then researched on here last night and found some good posts to try tonight,

*Located clutch switch under CPU above clutch. Took a wire and jumpered the plug on the harness side. No go.
*Checked battery negative cable and made sure all is tight and nothing is touching.
*Checked other fuses, and none of them is blown
*Pulled radio and check the plug to the red button. Nothing is loose. Button does light up. Check other wires while there and nothing burnt or out of the ordinary

I am stuck. Thought it would be the clutch switch but I jumpered that. Do the red buttons go bad? Any other thoughts or anyone had a similar issue? Is it possibly the jumper won’t work? I don’t want to rule out the clutch switch.
i HAD THE SAME PROBLEM AFTER A RIDE WHEN NEW. PULLED BATTERY COVER. POSITIVE TERMINAL LOOSE FROM FACTORY TIGHTENED IT UP. HAVENT HAD A PROBLEM SINCE.
 

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BKL,
After leaving my clutch switch jumpered so I could start it , I took a ride and it seemed just fine except for the check engine light came on and I got this message on the display. Nothing seemed out of the ordinary with the gearshift or the rpm's while jumpered.
Randy
IMG_0427.jpg
 

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Evidently, the ECu has a problem with the clutch switch being jumpered all the time instead of just when using the clutch. Hopefully, that will clear up after you've replaced the clutch switch.
 

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I brought my 2018 into the shop for it's 500mile checkup and ever since I left there, the start button was getting harder and harder to push. Eventually it stopped working altogether (around 700 miles). I put a meter on it and found the switch inside the red button must be bad. For now, I've stripped the red and black (or blue, I'd have to check) wires back a little and when I touch those two wires together, it starts!
 
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