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Discussion Starter · #41 ·
good to know BKL, thanks

Now the other question- how you are able to pump gas with that wing right above the cap. I think I speak for everyone who owns one that one of the few effective ways to trigger gas flow is to literally push the springs on the pump itself as the the gas cap wont allow that function well. I'm also pretty sure we wear gloves when its time to pump gas.

I say this because I has a dickens of a time trying to pump gas with this wing in place
 

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good to know BKL, thanks

Now the other question- how you are able to pump gas with that wing right above the cap. I think I speak for everyone who owns one that one of the few effective ways to trigger gas flow is to literally push the springs on the pump itself as the the gas cap wont allow that function well. I'm also pretty sure we wear gloves when its time to pump gas.

I say this because I has a dickens of a time trying to pump gas with this wing in place
Your comment about pumping gas caused me to realize the outer hoop leg support I mentioned might interfere with pumping gas, so a little more design creativity might be needed.
As far as pumping gas, I have seen two methods for the Slingshot. One definitely wouldn't work for the Slingshot with a wing and that is inserting the nozzle vertically with the hose pointing toward the center fin or roll hoop. I just stick it in from the side until the spring on the nozzle makes contact with the top of the gas neck and then just hold it in place so the weight of the gas line/valve don't stress the neck. I find that if I try to insert the nozzle too far into the tank, I am more likely to get some splash-back while pumping gas. Not sticking the nozzle all the way into the tank neck usually leaves enough room for air to easily leave the tank as gas is pumped into the tank. I then try to predict when the tank should be nearing full so I can carefully fill the tank w/o having gas splash back out of the neck onto the paint.
 

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I've found on mine that I put the neck in as normal, but pump on the first notch. If I try to go faster, it kicks off due to the splashback. Luckily our tank isn't big and doesn't take long to pump 7 - 8 gallons on the slower first notch.
 

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Victor,
In preperation of getting my Shot back next week. I am making up my brackets. Using your design.
I am using a solid 3/4 piece of aluminum stock in the front part (vs hollow channel) of the bracket then sandwiched between two 2 in wide but 1/2 inch thick aluminum stock pieces.
Could you tell me what the measurement is from the front edge of your brackets (where you have the 3/4 hollow piece) to your single drilled rear "clamping" bolt/nut hole. Not the holes that the wing bolts onto.

Thanks,
Webby
 

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Here's a pic of how I insert the gas nozzle when refueling my Slingshot. I'd think this method would work even with a low-mounted wing or luggage rack.

The black line exiting the gas cap area is a tether I added to keep my cap from getting lost. See - https://www.slingshotforums.com/thr...-cap-to-prevent-losing-it.164753/#post-836321. The modified replacement gas cap tether works well, but I'd still like to replace the cable-tie spider I used to keep the tether ring in place since the cable-tie spider can move up and down the gas cap sides. I might try hot-gluing the cable-tie spider to keep it from sling up and down.
 

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Discussion Starter · #46 ·
Let's all slow our roll regarding this bracket design as I suffered a somewhat catastrophic issue with the bracket design.

Let's start with the "I told you so" argument: The bracket design suffers from high turbulence rigidity stress at speeds above 45mph. This became evident last weekend when the cheap plastic could not handle it anymore and collapsed and cracked into itself. Luckily I was exiting at the time and I had tools on me to remove the entire assembly.



The wing appears repairable, albeit will require serious modification.What I will most likely do is to cut out a thin metal panel that covers the entire flat surface on the underside of the wing. I will also foam fill the cavity of the wing to try to reduce the hollowness of the body itself. I'll have to paint everything but hey I'll probably have a stronger wing in the end.

As to the bracket design, I'm still not sure the channel mod to counter flexing might still not be enough. I still might have to consider mounting it on the fiberglass panel. This is what I've sorta come up with but I still have to work on the wood piece itself.



What you're looking at is the underside with the rear panel removed.That is a Simpson strong tie i got at Home Depot which fits over the right strut bar perfectly. The wood piece however has to be extended further back for the mounts. What I planned to do was drill a larger hole on the fiberglass then screw in a 2" wood screw to hold the mount down. I would also pad any airspace or gaps so should turbulence occur it hopefully won't tear up the fiberglass panel. The strong tie works on the passenger side easily but not at all on the driver's side without heavily modifying the strong tie or using using something else..

Again, after what I've learned with this wing I'm not sure which way to lean towards. I've seen thousands of cars with rear wings affixed to the trunk so I can assume that if mounted securely and strongly it should work better than the crash bar mount. Either way, I have to look at this setup a little more before proceeding.
 

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Let's all slow our roll regarding this bracket design as I suffered a somewhat catastrophic issue with the bracket design.

Let's start with the "I told you so" argument: The bracket design suffers from high turbulence rigidity stress at speeds above 45mph. This became evident last weekend when the cheap plastic could not handle it anymore and collapsed and cracked into itself. Luckily I was exiting at the time and I had tools on me to remove the entire assembly.

View attachment 175693

The wing appears repairable, albeit will require serious modification.What I will most likely do is to cut out a thin metal panel that covers the entire flat surface on the underside of the wing. I will also foam fill the cavity of the wing to try to reduce the hollowness of the body itself. I'll have to paint everything but hey I'll probably have a stronger wing in the end.

As to the bracket design, I'm still not sure the channel mod to counter flexing might still not be enough. I still might have to consider mounting it on the fiberglass panel. This is what I've sorta come up with but I still have to work on the wood piece itself.

... ..

Again, after what I've learned with this wing I'm not sure which way to lean towards. I've seen thousands of cars with rear wings affixed to the trunk so I can assume that if mounted securely and strongly it should work better than the crash bar mount. Either way, I have to look at this setup a little more before proceeding.
I couldn't tell from your post, but if you plan on using all 10 screw holes on each side to secure the thin metal plate across a wider section of the wing, I think that approach would be stronger. If the metal plate extended all the way across the wing to provide a solid reinforcement across the entire wing secured by using all 20 holes (10 on each side), that should be even better. Even better, fiber-glassing the thin metal strip across the width of the wing and still using all 10 holes on each side to secure not only the wing supports, but the entire thin metal strip should do a lot to reinforce the wing. Did you observe the wing support brackets vibrating/moving or was the flexing limited to the wing itself? If the wing itself was flexing, the problem may lie with the wing material being too thin/flexible. If you observed the wing supports to be vibrating/moving, then the underlying attachment points to/thru the deck may need stiffening. I think the idea of using some spray foam to fill the inside of the wing should help provide additional rigidity to the wing, bit I'd recommend drilling some expansion holes for the foam to exit out of during the injection process to reduce any internal pressure that might damage the wing. Any foaming out of the expansion holes could then be addressed and smoothed before repainting the wing. Good Luck in your efforts.
 

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Thats too bad Victor.
Sorry to hear that your bend/flex issue now turned into a failure. Makes sense how it happened.
Based on your info latest report. I have a new game plan for mine.
I will mount the wing onto my super heavy-duty custom touring racks from SlingLow (Doug).
https://www.slingshotforums.com/threads/custom-luggage-racks.158961/page-7
Looks like wing/fin clearance wont be an issue. It will mount my wing lower than your's was.
Basically where the $1000 kits do.
Will let ya'll know how it goes.
I will just take the wing off for long road trips (only time I really need to use the touring racks anyways).

WW
 

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Discussion Starter · #49 ·
Bkl, I think the destruction was from the initial constant flexing of the brackets at speed followed by the thin plastic of the wing just losing all strength in the end. Much like bending a strip of metal over and over until it shears.
 

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Discussion Starter · #50 ·
Another problem with the bracket mount is easily evident in Webby's picture above. You see that little ridge on the inside of the roll bar? Its not wide enough to secure the bracket in place. The wind and vibration ultimately pull it down from the back side so what was straight in the beginning is now tilted. You could fit a thin enough piece I suppose on either side of the ridge to counter it.

regardless, more work
 

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Bkl, I think the destruction was from the initial constant flexing of the brackets at speed followed by the thin plastic of the wing just losing all strength in the end. Much like bending a strip of metal over and over until it shears.
A triangular brace connecting the horizontal piece of metal to a lower roll hoop point should go a long way in stiffening the metal your wing brackets mount to. Adding the thin metal reinforcement to the bottom of the wing sand filling the wing interior with spray foam should hopefully help alleviate the flexing.

Another problem with the bracket mount is easily evident in Webby's picture above. You see that little ridge on the inside of the roll bar? Its not wide enough to secure the bracket in place. The wind and vibration ultimately pull it down from the back side so what was straight in the beginning is now tilted. You could fit a thin enough piece I suppose on either side of the ridge to counter it.

regardless, more work
This is where the limits of fabbing stuff using hand tools available to most of us becomes a limiting factor. You might want to consider some type of welded brace that duplicates the secure mounting to the roll hoop seen with the commercial luggage racks, tops and wings. If you can come up with a design and cut the parts yourself, the actual welding shouldn't cost too much.

I understand what you're going through. I replaced the Polaris lower front wing (got tired of it getting bent from impacts with small critters during night rides) with a wing originally meant for a car's trunk lid. My current design uses a piece of flat aluminum that angles down from the lower front wing mount bolts, but a forum member pointed out some concerns about possible twisting of the frame box in the event of an accident. I've been thinking about a redesign that will also reposition the wing a little lower and that would produce less rotating force and hopefully convert impact force into a more horizontally-directed movement in the event of an accident. I attached some pics that detail my thought process on this.

 

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I think SlingLows racks will act as a very sturdy base for this aftermarket wing. They are sure heavy duty and I doubt will flex from the down force pressure of the wing. Unless, the downword force combines to excess of 440lbs of pressure. These should do the trick.
(screen shot borrowed from SlingLows rack sales section on this forum). If the roll bars are study enough for the name brand wing brackets that attach to them. They should work with Dougs racks.

WW
 

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Victor-eyd,

Thanks... Yes, Its all setup and adjusted. Just the four locking bolts and large washers to pull it on/off for long trips when momma would bring her shoe collection and her kitchen sink!!
About 10 mins to take it off/put it on.
Thanks again for sharing this thread, your original bracket ideas and the link to the wing all got me here.

Webby
 

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Update on my spoiler/wing.....

I was going to fIll mine with expanding foam but didn't because I was too anxious to install it...
Mounted on my seriously solid tourering racks.... Figured it would be good.

Couple hundred miles on the highway and mine also started to crack at the bracket attach points. Amazon sellar
is covering it under their 60 day warranty.
My advice...... If you go with this type of inexpensive spoiler/wing.. Though it feels solid,,,, Fill it with expanding foam and let it set up so it becomes good and solid.
My replacement will be "foamed up!"

Webby
 

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Got my replacement wing...
Drilled 4 holes on the inside of where the small side flaps attach.
Important to have extra holes (besides the one your using to fill through) so the expanding gases and excess fill escapes. Of course... The expandable foam is super messy and sticky to work with.
So I kepted the wing in its shipping bag and taped the end up before drilling/filling.
One can filled up about half from the bottom up(opposite end of my drill holes)..
Had plenty of gasses and wasted foam go out the top holes (thus the protective plastic). Let it dry overnight. Dont drill the second side till the 1st side sets up (over night).
I Put a small "feeler" dowel through my drill holes on the top side to see how far it actually filled it up(next day).. About half way up.
Remember to fill it up using the most middle hole so most of the foam falls to the bottom and starts expanding from the bottom up.
Also, when filling.. Do it wearing rubber gloves/old clothes and over say grass (makes for easy clean up when the spillage starts to harden).

Looking forward to seeing of my latest improvement works.

Webby
 

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Discussion Starter · #60 ·
I too have spray foamed the wing. It feels more rigid but I have to reinforce it further with a metal plate to stiffen the wing. So far I'm liking what I've done. This is the wing about 24hrs since I've sprayed it



I've drilled 5 holes on the bottom and a hole on each edge to fill. I'll probably leave it like this for a full 48hrs before I start messing around.
 
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