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Discussion Starter #1
I'm looking to add a completely decorative and non-performing feature to my SS, a large rear wing. I say non performance because my driving habits are too slow to really make a difference in it actually being of use. Instead, I'm installing it because I like the look of its appearance. I've never been happy with the back 1/3 of the SS. The rear spoiler imo completes the look, at least it does for me. I've seen plenty of wonderful SS's on this forum without one but for my tastes, I'd like one on the back.

Currently, I've seen two types of mounting. The more expensive is the bracket mount. The cheaper is the rear panel surface mount. The cheaper option is what I'm interested in. One particular owner on youtube fitted his in the near end of the tail, and used L-brackets on the rear mount points but bolts and washers on the front mount points. I'm not down on this as I fear with time and vibration accumulated through simple driving, cracks will inevitably develop and possibly tear or break the fiberglass/plastic skin on these front mounts.

So to those who installed wing using the surface mount option, how did you mount the 4 points of spoiler supports to the rear. I have a couple of ideas rattling in my brain but curious how others have done this.
Thanks
 

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I'm not sure about the mounting, but make sure you shop around for wings. You can save $700.00 by buying one from one from Amazon rather than an SS aftermarket parts seller. There is nothing SS specific about them.
 

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When using a generic aftermarket rear wing on a SLingshot, you need to make sure the brackets are tall enough to clear the rear fin. You will probably also need to install a reinforcing plate of some kind under the rear deck plastics so that any vibration is directed into the frame and not absorbed by the plastics.
 

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I'll add, if considering a generic wing you have to be very careful of the size and width of the mounting brackets. There are lots of things in the way and very little space to bolt anything through the deck directly to the square tube aluminum rear deck sub-frame. The frame rail spacing is pretty narrow and the fuel filler complicates adding material to brace between the existing frame tubes so any wing with a fixed bracket width would have to be perfect. This is why most Slingshot specific wings mount to the roll hoops. Berts in CA used to offer a CF wing built by APR with custom spacing on the mounts but they don't even do Slingshot stuff anymore

636392113996000218-slingshot.rear.aerial.jpg


I remember a whole lot of posts from owners who installed, or tried to install wings early on, some had really good results and listed the units they found worked best as well as how they mounted them.Others not so much. Unfortunately the search feature on this site is lacking so you might try Google ....... o_O


..
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I've actually saw another you tube video (thanks, google!) and its the same as the other video showing the installation



82nd airborne's is way better to understand what's happening. The mounting point location of the rear wing almost never matches (and why should it) where the aluminum tubes are on the slingshot. The ideal ones are the two running on either side of the central fin.

IMAG0427.jpg

Compounded to this problem is the gap between the plastic skin and the top of the frame, around 2" or more.

So what happens now is either to modify (ie relocate) the mounting struts to a location above the tubes (not really an issue, its just plastic holes that need to be made on the wing with new screws to hold in place) or create a metallic or at a more rigid platform will serve as a new base for the struts. The holes made through the plastic rear surface will serve only as guide holes and will not bear the brunt of the downforce or vibration the wing will produce. The wires you see connected to the square tubing can all be moved to a different location. L brackets can be screwed to connect to the square tubing to provide rigidity. The challenge is what will work. Again, looking at these pictures are providing me with some ideas but further home depot visits maybe be warranted LOL.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
These are two location for the rear wing. The green SS appears to be mounted near or above the square tubing


The grey SS has it mounted further back. The allows the rear mount (using L brackets) to be adhered to the tubing but the front mounts are attached with nuts and washers to the plastic skin. That's the one I'm trying to not do.

 

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@Orangeman has a good point about bracket spacing. If the wing is pre-drilled for brackets, this will limit bracket placement or leave possibly unsightly holes under the wing. Some brackets install in slots on the bottom of the wing, which gives a lot of freedom in bracket placement, but this type of wing seems to be designed for relatively short brackets. If the listing does NOT specify if the wing is pre-drilled for the brackets, the safest thing to do is ask the seller before ordering if the brackets can be easily positioned where needed..
I'd recommend that any angle brackets or any other mounting method attached to the sub-frame under the plastic be positioned so that the plastic deck can not vibrate between the mounting point and the wing. This should minimize any chance of cracking the plastic. Remember, when Polaris changed the support for the side panels and some owners ended up cracking the panels because of inadequate support. I'd also recommend a thin rubber pad between the mounting point and the deck plastic to help protect the deck plastic.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
We think alike on the pad. While I'm still figuring out how, I already knew to use a mouse pad or similar as a soft buffer on the underside of the surface and rubber/plastic grommet/washers on the top.
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
I think I may have a solution to the mounting problem. You can source 3" x 3" x 9" 0.25" aluminum bar stock online for about $20-30 for 2 bars 9" wide. The layout looks like the drawing below. The mount is still affixed to the rear plastic panel but also to the L-bracket as well. At least this way the stress of the wind pressure and vibration are handled by two sources (especially one being metallic and rigid) than just by one flexible and thin plastic source. The reason for a 3" wide horizontal base to affix allows me to use the mounting holes of the rear wing without worry of drilling a hole into nothing solid. The thick 1/4" aluminum should be rigid enough to handle any issues. I could also cut some small aluminum tubing and glue it to the bracket to provide more stability if I felt it needed more.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
So the L-brackets came in last week. And as large and sizeable as they are 11" long 1/4" thick 3" x 3" angled it still gets swallowed up inside the cavity. Here are some pics
IMAG0526.jpg
IMAG0529.jpg
View attachment 170967

If I butted the bracket up to the plastic panel the gap varies between 4"-5" depending on the location along the beam as its in an downward angle. What I have will still work mind you but I may end up getting a longer screw 1-1/2" to 2" to make it work.

The drawing below represents a side view of the angle bracket screwed against the frame
IMAG0505.jpg
 

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You might want to try some tubular spacers. Your current drawings seem to show multiple nuts being used and also seems to show the wing bracket being firmly attached to the plastic rear deck in addition to the aluminum angle and the subframe. Using a tubular spacer thru a hole large enough for the tubular spacer to not move against the plastic rear deck may help reduce any vibration between the brackets mounting the wing to the subframe and the rear deck plastics while also eliminating the nuts underneath the rear deck plastics and on top of the aluminum angle with the tubular spacers transferring the forces from the wing brackets directly to the aluminum angles, hopefully w/o any of the stresses affecting the plastics. Let me know if this doesn't make sense and I can try to add a picture.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
What I actually had in mind were rubber grommets around the plastic holes. I think with the bracket being as long as it (7"-9") it will be able to handle the flexing from wind and vibration created by the wing. I probably won't have any nut against the the plastic and if I do it might just be finger tight to provide stability. Most of the stability will be the anchoring to the angle bracket itself.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
This is another idea I came up with: I got these at Loews for $3.70 ea. They're called connecting bars and located in the construction aisle where all the simpson strong ties are. Using a curved piece of 2x4 lumber to match the contour of the plastic panel above it and create a snug fit. I'd still use rubber washers or similar but point is that I know have a rigid base to mount the wing to, instead of simply a plastic and easily tearable section. I would instead 2" or so wood screws to mount the wing bases in place.
IMAG0538.jpg


You can see by this photo that the width of 2x4 (I'm using a 2x3 for this purpose) is the same width of the crossbar
View attachment 170993
 

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Looks like it should work since it offers a larger contact patch with the rear deck plastics. You just need a firm support under the where the wing mounting brackets contact the rear deck plastics. I'd recommend firmly mounting the wood pieces to the subframe and using an oversized hole so the edges of the hole in the plastic don't rub against whatever bolts or screws you use to secure the wing mounting brackets to the wood/subframe.
(Personally, I still prefer the idea of using tubular spacers to secure the wing mounting brackets directly to the subframe without having the the rear deck plastics touching the tubular spacers or not able to shift slightly to allow for frame flexing since I think that would best minimize chances of damage to the plastics.)
 

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Discussion Starter #16
As a gap filler between the wood and the bottom of the deck plastic my intention was to cut up a mouse pad into rectangular shapes to act as buffer when the wing flexes the plastic downward.
 

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As a gap filler between the wood and the bottom of the deck plastic my intention was to cut up a mouse pad into rectangular shapes to act as buffer when the wing flexes the plastic downward.
I'd think that should work. Just enough support to the plastic w/o binding it against the bolts/screws. My thoughts are you want the wing brackets firmly secured to the subframe w/o binding the plastics in between and the mouse-pad pieces should allow padding w/o binding.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
So this is the update so far. I've already bought the wing from amazon, 57" rear wing abs

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BCATZKS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

As much as I would love to still mount this in the very rear of the body, I'm still very hesitant to drill holes, especially if they're incorrect ones, for simply the sake of vanity. So for now I'm revisiting the roll-bar mount option. Here is the main bracket. There is an additional set to tilt the wing more but I'm pretty fine with the angle . The t-joint at the top mounts to the corresponding holes in the wing
IMAG0660.jpg


These are the mounting holes under the wing. As close to center as i could make it, you can see some of the holes line up with the horizontal opening of the roll bar
IMAG0657.jpg


This is the concept I'm looking at to create. I don't think it should be difficult for a metal fabricator to build. Heck if I learned how to solder aluminum I could probably make it myself
IMAG0661.jpg
 

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So this is the update so far. I've already bought the wing from amazon, 57" rear wing abs

Amazon.com: 57" High Stand Rear GT Wing ABS Black Trunk Spoiler: Automotive

As much as I would love to still mount this in the very rear of the body, I'm still very hesitant to drill holes, especially if they're incorrect ones, for simply the sake of vanity. So for now I'm revisiting the roll-bar mount option. Here is the main bracket. There is an additional set to tilt the wing more but I'm pretty fine with the angle . The t-joint at the top mounts to the corresponding holes in the wing
View attachment 172423

These are the mounting holes under the wing. As close to center as i could make it, you can see some of the holes line up with the horizontal opening of the roll bar
View attachment 172425

This is the concept I'm looking at to create. I don't think it should be difficult for a metal fabricator to build. Heck if I learned how to solder aluminum I could probably make it myself
View attachment 172427
Nice job! Saved yourself $800.00! lol
 
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