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A Slingshot was supposed to be my first purchase of an American made vehicle and my ultimate (within reason) dream vehicle. For the last year I had been waiting for the new 2020 SS model R to be in the showrooms. A few weeks ago I finally made it down to a dealer to check it out and make a purchase of a manual transmission Model R in any color available. I didn’t care what color they all look amazing. As I was waiting for a sales representative I noticed an orange 2019 SLR sitting in a dark corner of the sales floor. I went over to check it out. Long story short instead of dropping over $30,000 USD on a 2020 I purchased a demo model 2019 with a considerable discount. It had just under 350 miles on it. The dealer said it was briefly used as demo model for test rides. I couldn’t believe the “briefly” part seeing as it had 347 miles on the digital odometer. That’s allot of test rides. I took it for a short test ride around the neighborhood and quickly on and off the highway. Everything seemed to be working fine. But I was then on the fence about getting a 2019 or 2020 so I was going to leave empty handed. So they knocked another 1k USD off the price and gave me $300 USD off the extended warranty to get me signing and driving out of there later that day. They did an oil/ filter change, put on a new rear tire and quick inspection that day free at the 351 mile mark. I think that I still need to have it done again at 500 mark for the warranty though. Anyway, I have put on another 50 or so miles over the past few weeks (it’s been raining every weekend otherwise it would be more). Every time I go for an extended period of time in high gears and need to stop at a light the engine stalls. I’m switching between 3rd, 4th and 5th gear going between 45-65 mph so I’m not at a constant speed (for break in according to manual). I’m also slowly going down to gears as I’m slowing down and not skipping gears. When I finally come to a stop it stalls. Every time. Sometimes before I’m even fully stoped. Yes I know how to drive a manual. I spent most of my life living in Europe were all the affordable used cars and cheap rentals are manual transmission. It starts right back up but it’s very embarrassing when your driving an attention getter vehicle. Now I’m thinking that I made a big mistake buying a demo model. The people who test drove it probably beat the bloody crap out of it and didn’t follow the break-in procedures according to the manual. I have already taken it back to the dealer. The mechanic took it out then it was in the maintenance bay for awhile. They came back and said there is nothing wrong with it. On my way home it happened again twice but only after driving in the high gears for an extended period of time. About 30-45 minutes. Is this typical for a new American engine? I have no idea. All I know is when I take it back to the dealer again I need to know what I’m talking about. I cant get a trade-in for another new 2019 because they are all gone. This was the last one. Also now I can’t even trade it in for 2020 because my fiancé has already planned to spend the almost 10k USD I saved on our wedding in August 2020. We were planning on leaving the wedding in the SS and driving it to Alaska for our honeymoon. Her parents are in bad health so it can’t be postponed even for COVID 19. I’m hoping some veteran SS owners on this forum can help me out. How important is the break-in period because I know for at least 350 miles it wasn’t properly followed. The dealer let me take it out without a sales representative. All they did was check my license and handed me the keys and said “have fun”. So other potential customers they probably did the same. People who test drove it probably floored it, went over 70 mph and engine braked by down shifting hard into every corner and stop. All things the manual says not to do. Also why would they need to replace the rear tire after just 350 miles? At the time I thought GREAT a new rear tire. Now I just picture people doing donuts in parking lots with my dream vehicle. Is this a lemon or is this the consequences of test drivers not following the manuals page 58 guidance on Engine and Drivetrain Break-In? Please someone help me out. Cheers.
 

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Welcome to the "World of Slingshot Insanity" ... Bought my first one on 24 Feb 2015 - a 2015 SE - In Sept 2015 had some electrical issues and to 'old' to wait on warrantee work so traded for a 2016. Between the two have over 90,000 miles in the seat. I have a traffic dealer and 'tech' and haven't had much in the way of problems.
Hopefully your dealer will get it figured out. I might suggest that you put a can of 'Sea Foam' in your next fill up and then put a few miles on it. To the best of my knowledge most of the guys have had good experiences with the 2019 Slingshot.
 

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Many of the early models (2015) had this problem and Polaris offered a reflash of the ECU to remedy it. You could have your dealer check your software to determine if you have the latest version for your model. I have also read on the forums that the ECU has a 'learning curve' where it adapts to your driving style. I would check the software, continue to drive it, and if the issue persists you could look at getting one of the two available after-market tunes that improve drivability and can raise the idle speed from the factory 750 rpm to 1,000 rpm if you choose (most do). Also make sure you are using premium fuel. Lower octane can cause the problem you are having.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Welcome to the "World of Slingshot Insanity" ... Bought my first one on 24 Feb 2015 - a 2015 SE - In Sept 2015 had some electrical issues and to 'old' to wait on warrantee work so traded for a 2016. Between the two have over 90,000 miles in the seat. I have a traffic dealer and 'tech' and haven't had much in the way of problems.
Hopefully your dealer will get it figured out. I might suggest that you put a can of 'Sea Foam' in your next fill up and then put a few miles on it. To the best of my knowledge most of the guys have had good experiences with the 2019 Slingshot.
Thank you for posting. Actually the first thing I did when this began happening was stop at a small auto store. The guy in the store said I might have old gas in the tank and it doesn’t have enough octane. I’m familiar with SeaFoam but he recommended mixing a bottle of octane booster with 1-5 gallons of gas and adding it on my next fill up. I left the dealership with about a quarter tank and was almost empty when I refilled it at a BP station. I mixed the bottle of octane booster with a gallon of gas and poured 1/3 in before 1/3 in between and 1/3 in after filling the tank with premium fuel. So its had good gas for at least 75 miles. I didn’t tell the dealer this because I didn’t know if it voided the warranty and didn’t want to be blamed for the vehicles issues.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Many of the early models (2015) had this problem and Polaris offered a reflash of the ECU to remedy it. You could have your dealer check your software to determine if you have the latest version for your model. I have also read on the forums that the ECU has a 'learning curve' where it adapts to your driving style. I would check the software, continue to drive it, and if the issue persists you could look at getting one of the two available after-market tunes that improve drivability and can raise the idle speed from the factory 750 rpm to 1,000 rpm if you choose (most do). Also make sure you are using premium fuel. Lower octane can cause the problem you are having.
Thank you for posting. I will definitely look into that re-flash. I’m not sure if the dealer did any of that yet. Is it something I can have done at a GM dealer since it’s a GM engine? Or do I need to go back to the authorized SS dealer again?
 

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Oh no, it's all Polaris. They use the MEFI system and not OBDI as most vehicle manufacturers do. I believe only a couple guys have cracked it. I really don't know if the later models were delivered with an outdated flash like the earlier models either but it's worth an ask. What octane fuel do you use? Out here on the west coast I get 92 and when I went to Canada and used 91 I had a couple of stalls that I never had before or since. Can't say it was the fuel but it was the only time that has happened to me. Maybe you changed up fuel type from the couple of tanks that the dealer put through it.
 

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Thank you for posting. Actually the first thing I did when this began happening was stop at a small auto store. The guy in the store said I might have old gas in the tank and it doesn’t have enough octane. I’m familiar with SeaFoam but he recommended mixing a bottle of octane booster with 1-5 gallons of gas and adding it on my next fill up. I left the dealership with about a quarter tank and was almost empty when I refilled it at a BP station. I mixed the bottle of octane booster with a gallon of gas and poured 1/3 in before 1/3 in between and 1/3 in after filling the tank with premium fuel. So its had good gas for at least 75 miles. I didn’t tell the dealer this because I didn’t know if it voided the warranty and didn’t want to be blamed for the vehicles issues.
The Octane Booster was a good thing. A number of the guys run a little Sea Foam once a month or so. Part of it is 'How much do you drive the Slingshot?' I do Sea foam 2 or 3 times a year. But I usually run more than a tank of gas a week, so gas is fresh and most always us 93 octane.
 

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I can't help you with the problem but I am certain it is not normal. My '18 has never had a glitch and neither did my previous '16 so far as idling is concerned. Maybe a couple times the '16 stalled, but that was usually during a sudden or quick stop. Never happened with the '18. Go back to dealer and tell them to find out whats going on, and if they don't know, call Polaris and ask for support.
 
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At what point are you disengaging the clutch. I have an old thread about this when I bought my first 19 and this still happens on my March 2020 purchased 2019 SL purchase. I noticed that this occurs rather frequently if disengaging the clutch under 1800 or so RPM. Disengaging at or above approx 1800 RPM will remedy this 100%. I was also told it was normal and tried many many remedies lol. I can tell you that after you get some miles on it this starts to happen way less. By miles I mean actual miles and changing out the engine, angle, and clutch fluids. I have 3k miles now and no other problems. Hope this helps.
 

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Also this has never happened while just idling. If you experience this while already stopped and idling you have a different issue.
 

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I read ... demo unit...345 miles .. needed a new rear tire ...... that would have done it for me ...

But in an effort to help .. there should be two capped off vacuum ports from the factory .....

I know this is not exactly what your engine bay looks like but it shows the locations ....

Alpha intake cap.jpg



Make sure they are both there, if so put a zip tie on them so they stay put.

If either is missing a vacuum leak is causing your problem.

If not the dealer needs to re-flash your ECM.

......
 

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I would take it back to the dealer and go along with the mechanic on the test ride. If the problem shows up tell them to fix it. If they can‘t fix it see if your state has a lemon law. (Check on the lemon law before you go and let them know if they can’t fix it you’ll be getting your money back.) I think it’s insane that as owners we’re trying to troubleshoot a problem instead of making the dealer fix it.
 

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I am pretty sure that a lemon law would only apply to a new vehicle. Not sure if a "Demo" vehicle would qualify. I would imagine that it was sold with a "As Is" clause.
 

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I am pretty sure that a lemon law would only apply to a new vehicle. Not sure if a "Demo" vehicle would qualify. I would imagine that it was sold with a "As Is" clause.
It wasn’t sold ”as is” with an extended warranty. I bought a 1 year old SLR and it would have qualified under the lemon law but I bought it out of state. If I bought it in the state of Washington it would have fallen under the lemon law protection.
 
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