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Alright, I got it. I have it in accessory mode when testing the stereo, and the backup camera is not powered then. Image displays when turning the key to "on". It worked in accessory with the aftermarket camera, because that was powered directly. Now I'll just spice into the backup lights and I'll be good to go.
 

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Trigger can be had at transmission or at back-up lights. Can provide more info about the connection at the lights if needed.
OK, I give... what's the easiest way to get a +12v upon reverse? I really thought a few screws out, and I could access and tap it at the rear lights, but it's beginning to seem light the entire backend must be stripped to get to those lights.
 

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I did a few things with my SS last week. It seems like everything I wanted to do, I had to take more stuff apart. Before it was over the whole ass end was apart. I ended up running a 12V lead from the reverse light to the head unit while it was all apart. Also made a 4 gauge power/ground drop in case it needs to be jump started, and to connect a power supply for when we are at shows, ran 4 gauge power/ground up front from the battery, and added a bunch of LED's underneath.
 

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Have any of you noticed that the voltage is a bit "strange" for lack of a better word. Mine has voltage ranging from 11.02 to 12.7.

It seems like it is a poor grounding issue. I'm using the ground wires that are at the rear to check the voltage so it shouldn't be this random I wouldn't think.

I also noticed that the reverse light trigger wire is one of the lower voltages I have checked.
 

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No, but when the key is on to check voltage, there's a lot of stuff on. Headlights, taillights, stereo, dash illumination, etc. All of that has an effect on it.

I'm really disappointed with the battery on these machines. I had to completely remove it to add the 4 gauge power/ground ring terminals. As small as the battery is, surely there's an engineer out there that could stuff it under the hood. Can Am side by sides have them above the drivers dead pedal!
 

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No, but when the key is on to check voltage, there's a lot of stuff on. Headlights, taillights, stereo, dash illumination, etc. All of that has an effect on it.

I'm really disappointed with the battery on these machines. I had to completely remove it to add the 4 gauge power/ground ring terminals. As small as the battery is, surely there's an engineer out there that could stuff it under the hood. Can Am side by sides have them above the drivers dead pedal!
The new ones are small but it is perfectly placed for weight distribution ..... you don't want more weight forward.....

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No, but when the key is on to check voltage, there's a lot of stuff on. Headlights, taillights, stereo, dash illumination, etc. All of that has an effect on it.

I'm really disappointed with the battery on these machines. I had to completely remove it to add the 4 gauge power/ground ring terminals. As small as the battery is, surely there's an engineer out there that could stuff it under the hood. Can Am side by sides have them above the drivers dead pedal!
You must have the 2016 with the smaller battery. You can buy a battery tray to put in the larger Group 34 battery. Link here:

Large Battery Box for the Polaris Slingshot - Slingshot Only

A lot of people are switching to the Optima blue top deep cycle marine battery, link here (also available on Amazon):

http://www.streetsideauto.com/p/optima-8016-103/?utm_source=googlepepla&utm_medium=adword&gclid=CKLV5YzHj8oCFcKGaQodfrIIug
 

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Orangeman, I get that, but they've sacrificed serviceability - completely. You can't even jump start it without tools. And I haven't noticed a post in the engine bay for that purpose. At least my CTS-V has that up front.

Tripod, yes I do. I've been in the 12V audio industry for almost 25 years. Optima - IMO - is junk. The amps I'm using don't require 3 alternators and 6 batteries. The stock one will be fine, and I made a drop for a quick disconnect to connect a power supply when we're at shows - we set up as vendors at ATV, sports, and boat shows.
 

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Orangeman, I get that, but they've sacrificed serviceability - completely. You can't even jump start it without tools. And I haven't noticed a post in the engine bay for that purpose. At least my CTS-V has that up front.

Tripod, yes I do. I've been in the 12V audio industry for almost 25 years. Optima - IMO - is junk. The amps I'm using don't require 3 alternators and 6 batteries. The stock one will be fine, and I made a drop for a quick disconnect to connect a power supply when we're at shows - we set up as vendors at ATV, sports, and boat shows.
I apologize profusely for attempting to help. You complained about the small battery & I provided a link such that you can use a larger battery. Use whatever battery blows your skirt up...
 

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Orangeman, I get that, but they've sacrificed serviceability - completely. You can't even jump start it without tools. And I haven't noticed a post in the engine bay for that purpose. At least my CTS-V has that up front.
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Two bolts whoop-de-do .......I'll take more weight on the rear tire.... :D

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I apologize profusely for attempting to help. You complained about the small battery & I provided a link such that you can use a larger battery. Use whatever battery blows your skirt up...
Thanks for the link. No need to get your panties in a wad though.
 

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Two bolts whoop-de-do .......I'll take more weight on the rear tire.... :D

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2 bolts in the panel covering it, then, with a different tool, 2 more bolts on the battery, all while laying on whatever ground covering you've parked on, trying to weasel the battery out of a tight spot. When all they had to do as put a positive post "somewhere" to be able to jump start it.

Admit it, it's a shitty design. They could leave it there, just make it serviceable.
 

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2 bolts in the panel covering it, then, with a different tool, 2 more bolts on the battery, all while laying on whatever ground covering you've parked on, trying to weasel the battery out of a tight spot. When all they had to do as put a positive post "somewhere" to be able to jump start it.

Admit it, it's a shitty design. They could leave it there, just make it serviceable.
Sorry .... just don't see the problem... maybe its 'cause I have a '15 but I wouldn't have to move the battery to get cables on it.

Did they screw it up on the '16+


Also haven't had to jump a vehicle in around twenty years ..... maintain and replace at regular intervals.....

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I haven't had to yet, but I believe if you had to jumpstart it, or connect a battery charger, you'd probably have to remove it. I had to remove it to connect extra wires to it. Is it possible to connect without removing the battery? Maybe. At that point, I had the whole machine apart so 4 more bolts wasn't going to hurt.

I haven't had to jumpstart one in a long time either, but we DO live in a state that prevents us from riding the SS during the Winter. With some age and winter hibernation, it may need to be charged at one point. And I'm not putting a battery tender on it. That's a good way to screw up a battery.
 

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I haven't had to yet, but I believe if you had to jumpstart it, or connect a battery charger, you'd probably have to remove it. I had to remove it to connect extra wires to it. Is it possible to connect without removing the battery? Maybe. At that point, I had the whole machine apart so 4 more bolts wasn't going to hurt.

I haven't had to jumpstart one in a long time either, but we DO live in a state that prevents us from riding the SS during the Winter. With some age and winter hibernation, it may need to be charged at one point. And I'm not putting a battery tender on it. That's a good way to screw up a battery.
A lot of us run remote battery jump ports. If you need to jump or charge - no problem! Here's the writeup on my installation (hope this helps):

What did you do to your Slingshot today?
 

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That's similar to what I used, except mine is a 2 piece quick disconnect with 4 gauge. My 36V forklift uses the same connections to the battery bank.

Oh, here's a picture of the cmera harness, since we've been all over the off topic.place
 

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