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Had my abs bled with my recall work last month. So not sure how well. Since still too cold to ride here

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Proper way is to pressure the system, activate the abs module, open bleeder, bleed, close bleeder before abs module stops. Repeat again.
Do this to the rear first, front right second, front left third
 

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Proper way is to pressure the system, activate the abs module, open bleeder, bleed, close bleeder before abs module stops. Repeat again.
Do this to the rear first, front right second, front left third
Picked mine up from the recall work yesterday. The brakes were covered under the recall for new bleeding procedure. The tech told me he activated the ABS system by computer then bled the whole system. The brakes are better then ever.
 

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Picked mine up from the recall work yesterday. The brakes were covered under the recall for new bleeding procedure. The tech told be he activated the ABS system by computer then bled the whole system. The brakes are better then ever.
Perfect. Yup in order to do it right you need the digital wrench program. Every 2015 and 2016 has a recall to do it.
 

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I activated the ABS in grass today over and over and kept bleeding and it's a little bit better. We will find out when my ddmworks 14 inch Wilwoods get here next week how good these brakes are. Today I mighty vaced then vacuum blood with air compressor and finished off with manual pump. I got one little baby bubble on front passenger side that's it.
 

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I got to sit in a brand-new slingshot today and his brakes were also better always on the second pump I guess that's the problem with manual brakes. And his has had all recalls done it was brand-new off the showroom floor. He said his also are decent on the first pump But if you double pump it will throw you through the windshield and engage the abs. The dealer told me it's always harder on the second pump because you're sending more fluid that way before the piston can retract
 

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And it's bull-s#!t. Air is probably trapped in the ABS circuit, the ABS bleeder needs to be opened. Brake fluid has no noticeable ability to compress, so the brakes should be solid, just "harder" to push than vacuum assisted brakes. Pumping them up is a sign air is being compressed into solution during the first brake press, and is coming back out of solution slowly, leading to a later press being mushy the next "first" press (or a leak, but then the fluid in the reserve would go down).
 

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I can say from experience that you should not have to pump twice!! I went through several stages of how my brakes performed. My Sling had the soft brakes from the day we picked it up new. We ALWAYS had to pump twice to get a good feel. Of course, the canned response from the dealer was: "There's nothing wrong with the brakes. That is normal on these vehicles." I kept reading posts about the soft brakes, and bled them in the normal fashion myself. That did not improve the performance and I started thinking maybe the excuse was true. Then I read a post from Noel Hughes, and he explained what was happening and how to bleed the system after engaging the ABS assembly. What a difference!!! I thought I had great brakes now and no more worries!!! Well, then Henry at Alpha installed my turbo system, and took it for a test run.....when he hit the brakes the first time, he quickly dropped a couple "F" bombs, saying the brakes were horrible and he had to do something with them. (and here I thought they were pretty good) We went back to his stand and he proceeded to do a very in depth power bleed process. He took the Sling for another rip, came back, got out and said: "There, now you have brakes the way they should be". I took it for a rip, and, Holy Crap!!! The brakes were rock solid!!!!! So, I can honestly say that if you do not have rock solid brakes on the first push......you have air in the lines and until it's bled properly, you will not have the brakes you should expect!!!! Don't settle for excuses.....these factory brakes can perform very well once they are bled properly!!!!
 

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I have power bleed very good. I have done everything everybody has talked about. The only thing I didn't do yesterday that I normally do when activating the abs then power bleeding was I did not put grease around the bleeder bolt threads to get better seal. So it didn't suck very good. When I put grease around the threads on bleeders normally it will suck fluid like no other. I am not saying I don't have a firm brake pedal because I do. It is just always firmer on second pump. When braking, to stop hard on first pump I have to push harder, but if I let up and hit it again real quick it stops harder with less effort
 

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You have to activate the abs while bleeding brakes.

There are two tech instructions that your dealer should have access to thru the AskPolaris dealer support system

One for moving the brake calipers before bleeding and the latest that shows dealerships how to activate the abs while bleeding.

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And it's bull-s#!t. Air is probably trapped in the ABS circuit, the ABS bleeder needs to be opened. Brake fluid has no noticeable ability to compress, so the brakes should be solid, just "harder" to push than vacuum assisted brakes. Pumping them up is a sign air is being compressed into solution during the first brake press, and is coming back out of solution slowly, leading to a later press being mushy the next "first" press (or a leak, but then the fluid in the reserve would go down).
so hedgehog...I activated the abs 4 or 5 times on our dirt road...brought to house and bleed pass....driver and then back caliper....its a little better...but your saying to bleed abs with that bleeder on top of the abs....and if so when....and the end of caliper bleed or first...thanks buddy...
 

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so hedgehog...I activated the abs 4 or 5 times on our dirt road...brought to house and bleed pass....driver and then back caliper....its a little better...but your saying to bleed abs with that bleeder on top of the abs....and if so when....and the end of caliper bleed or first...thanks buddy...
No. That "nipple" you see is not an ABS bleed valve. It's the unused 4th wheel brake line that the SS doesn't have.

You have to cycle the ABS with Digital Wrench. You will never get all the air out any other way.
 

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No. That "nipple" you see is not an ABS bleed valve. It's the unused 4th wheel brake line that the SS doesn't have.

You have to cycle the ABS with Digital Wrench. You will never get all the air out any other way.
that's what I was afraid of......mamba powersports did the recalls and said they would be rock hard but that's not the case...there better, but... first pump have brakes but still a little mushy and second pump hard.....good brakes.....henry and noel have a home mechanic method.....maybe I'll try it....but don't understand why you have to extend the calipers....being a calif. smog tech...the guys in the shop just hook up our obd2 scanner/.actuater to activate the abs but he said I don't have a obd2 plug.....some kind of mefi 4/6 pin connector...they don't make it easy do they....lol
 

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that's what I was afraid of......mamba powersports did the recalls and said they would be rock hard but that's not the case...there better, but... first pump have brakes but still a little mushy and second pump hard.....good brakes.....henry and noel have a home mechanic method.....maybe I'll try it....but don't understand why you have to extend the calipers....being a calif. smog tech...the guys in the shop just hook up our obd2 scanner/.actuater to activate the abs but he said I don't have a obd2 plug.....some kind of mefi 4/6 pin connector...they don't make it easy do they....lol
You gotta remember the SS has a marine ECM not a car ECU/ECM, so yes, things are different.

Polaris released the Digital Wrench update for cycling the ABS a few months back (their version of like Toyota-Tech if you are familiar with Toyota's) but it gets complicated after that. They have a proprietary handheld and of course Digital Wrench. You can buy both, but you have to be a licensed Polaris dealer to get the updates for Digital Wrench OR be able to hack it.

So, it sucks. There is one guy on the planet that I know of that has bypassed all that bullshit and can open the door on the SS ECM and that is [email protected] But as far as I know Bob focuses on mapping and not stuff like cycling the ABS module.
 

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I have same problem. Taking my to the dealer tomorrow for faulty brake indicator on master cylinder. This is twice this has happened.No service bulletin, but dealer said they have kit Polaris has as they know of that problem. Going to have them look at the brakes, first pedal mushy, second fine
 

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I have same problem. Taking my to the dealer tomorrow for faulty brake indicator on master cylinder. This is twice this has happened.No service bulletin, but dealer said they have kit Polaris has as they know of that problem. Going to have them look at the brakes, first pedal mushy, second fine
Just got mine back yesterday for it. The switch doesn't do anything for the functionality of the brakes in this Technical Service Bulletin, but while I was there...I had the dealership bleed the brakes, first time in 2 years...man oh man what a difference it makes. I forgot that slingshot can actually stop. I was told that using the digital wrench software, they can engage the ABS unit while bleeding the brakes and it makes it more effective.
 
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