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So if you read nothing else in you owners manual, please read page 40 before operation. If this was posted previously, I didn't see it.

See attached pic
 

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It almost sounds like god forbid if you get up in 3rd or 4th gear, your stuck there, you can't get back.
 

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I'm a little shocked to see "avoid downshifts". That something I wouldn't expect


2015 SL
 

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That's pretty much word for word the typical stuff they put in there. They tell you to avoid downshifting to slow the vehicle. If you're going 70 and you shift to third or God forbid second it will cause a huge spike in rpms as the engine is forced to match the wheels. Usually ends up with a nice slide in the rear if you down shift in the slingshot going through a turn. I didn't follow that too much. I downshifted, but not aggressively early on. I had some fast starts, but not balls to the wall. I varied speed but not religiously. I certainly went faster than 70. My SL runs beautifully.
 

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I get it that you don't want to downshift where the lower gear would be above normal shift points especially during breakin.
But I can't see avoiding downshifting all together.
 

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I get it that you don't want to downshift where the lower gear would be above normal shift points especially during breakin.
But I can't see avoiding downshifting all together.
Me either. No modern engine is that damn fragile. Who doesn't shift down to fourth on the interstate. It's just how you drive.
 

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I'm scheduled for my first service next Saturday 1/3. I'm trying to put together a list of the key things so many of you have shared (not real easy) so I can run em by my dealer's service manager. I sure hope Polaris has kept the dealers up to date on the many items they have discovered so far. I have to say I've had excellent mechanical performance so far. Nothing dramatic
 

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I don't know yet, I am trying to check into this. Any modern car has a Blem cell as part of the ecu which learns driver habits. That programming is also being done within the first 500 miles, there could be a lot more going on than just clutch and engine break in.
We had a mechanic @Nathan White post about this, referring to GM cars. When I was in high school I worked at a Pontiac and Honda dealer as a parts runner, later moved to the parts counter for a couple of years on the Honda side. At Honda we were having some of the same issues that @Nathan White is discussing here. Remember Nathan suggested resetting this, has anyone tried this yet?

http://www.slingshotforums.com/threads/high-hanging-rpms.1741/page-4#post-37731
 

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I downshift religiously out of habit.


2015 SL
 
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Why would the advice differ after breakin?
Just like guns or anything else engines will loosen up over time. They can handle more extreme operation after they are broken in. Kinda the same way a new pair of leather boots will hurt your feet when you first get them. Terrible analogy, but it's the best I've got right now!
 

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Just like guns or anything else engines will loosen up over time. They can handle more extreme operation after they are broken in. Kinda the same way a new pair of leather boots will hurt your feet when you first get them. Terrible analogy, but it's the best I've got right now!
Yea, but if Polaris had made those boots, can you imagine how fast you could run with the high rev problem?
 

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No manufacturer wants to repair a broken vehicle under warranty. If something breaks, I WANT IT UNDER WARRANTY. Remember, (break it in easy) F^%& that.
 

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I am thinking it may have a lot to do with belt break in also. I have a harley that has had lots of performance mods done and if I replace my belt and hammer down on it it will break. I have broken 3 before I realized the belt and sprocket had to wear together and be readjusted. After that I can hammer down on it and it's fine. I have used this theory on a few other bikes and it works fine. I also have a Polaris rzr xp 1000 and if you don't allow the belt time to break in it will snap within a few miles and never be right until it's properly broke in. It is also very important to replace recommended fluids at break in due to breaking metal from gearing and bearings.
 
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