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Why wouldn't you just install them in the compartments? Tons of people have subs, I dont know of any that have removed the compartments.
 

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You dont need to put them in the door, Buy the SSV enclosures.
Cost on those are pretty high for a basic box. If you have a shop make the box it's double the cost. If you can do the work yourself...it literally is $30 in materials.
 

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Cost on those are pretty high for a basic box. If you have a shop make the box it's double the cost. If you can do the work yourself...it literally is $30 in materials.
Oh, well then... excuse my ignorance. HAHA, sounds like a much better deal.
 

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Oh, well then... excuse my ignorance. HAHA, sounds like a much better deal.
Not ignorance at all. I plan on doing the SSV driver side sub enclosure just for convenience, and I refuse to pay a shop $700 for an enclosure. I could build my own, but I don't have the time. I think SSV makes a quality product, if you want to spend $300 for a box.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Oh, well then... excuse my ignorance. HAHA, sounds like a much better deal.
Yes no ignorance I wanted to to save the money
Oh, well then... excuse my ignorance. HAHA, sounds like a much better deal.
Hey I come on the forum for tips so no offense taken. I wanted to save the money to put towards a wing and I did not think putting them on the door was going to sound good because of all the flex
 

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Yes no ignorance I wanted to to save the money

Hey I come on the forum for tips so no offense taken. I wanted to save the money to put towards a wing and I did not think putting them on the door was going to sound good because of all the flex
The door isn't bad as long as you use weather stripping around the door entrance and use a backer board. I have been running like this for the last 2 years. I am only going to get the SSV box because I think the sub can do so much more.
 
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And the doors are not very strong. If you look at the "hinge", you can easily open the doors without a key. I wouldn't store gold or Viagra in there (if you are so inclined) because they would be super simple to break into. No man, I mean no man who depends on Viagra ever want's to utter the sentence "Can't tonight honey, somebody stole my Viagra from my SS cubby".

The shame. The utter shame.
 

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I think removing the compartment is a major project involving the removal of most of the rear end body and trim.
 

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I'd think it should be possible to remove compartment door and use it to make a custom wooden replacement that fits over the protruding compartment edges and then mount that to the plastics. Some foam insulation like is used around AC window units could also be used to better seal the compartment. This would provide a firm mount for the speaker while preserving the door if it the speaker is ever removed. A better solution would be to make a box that fits in the compartment and is grooved to fit/seal around the protruding edge of the compartment.
 

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I removed my rear compartment last night. It is a process but nothing with an impact bits.

Remove both seats. 15mm and 17mm for a bolt on the passengers seat.
Remove compatment doors
Remove every T30(I think it is) bolt that is on the back wall behind the seats.
Remove the T30 bolts on the floor at the base of the back wall.
Remove the T25 bolts that are in the corners on the floor
Remove 4 push tabs at the top of the back panel
Remove the T25 bolts that are under the plastic under the roll bars.
Remove the T25 bolts that are bolted to the back of the storage compartments.
Remove the T40 bolts inside the storage units.
Pull forward and remove the two connectors that go to the charge port in the center.
Out they come.

Doing it by my self and having to remove my Corbin bags it took about 15 minutes.

Gives you a good look at the inner working behind the seats. Also a good time to clean up back there.
 

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Gives you a good look at the inner working behind the seats. Also a good time to clean up back there.
With them out, do you see any possibility of adding any sound proofing (maybe Dynamat) to the back side that might dampen angle drive and/or road noise?
 

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With them out, do you see any possibility of adding any sound proofing (maybe Dynamat) to the back side that might dampen angle drive and/or road noise?
You do have places you can put it but I dont think it will stop much noise. It would help stop the rattle from a subwoofer base drop. But stopping road noise and and angle drive noise would still be there i think.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I just finished taking those compartments out and it was a pain. I broke some plastic clips and a few t40 screws but it is done and I am happy with the results. The reason why I started this project was to add subs to the SS. First I tried add-on a wooden plate with rubber door gasket backing and a set of CHEAP subs. After driving around I told myself the Rockville speakers are cheap and don't sound that bad so what it would sound like if I put some half decent speakers in. So I put in a set Kickers and what was initially was a little rattle became a rattle fest. Plus even though I coated the wood plate with bed liner spray it was starting to swell and warp because New Orleans climate. So I took everything out and took the compartments out and cut another piece of wood to the dimensions of the compartment hole. Then I fiberglass and use bed liner the wooden plate. The finished product turn out good and sounds a lot better.

As for trying to put sound deadening material that would be hard because on one side you the battery and other side is the angle drive. I changed my angle oil and it help some but she it started leaking and I had to change it again I noticed a significant change in noise.
 
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