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So I was thinking I would go dyno my Slingshot as soon as I got it to get a good base line number before the mods begin, but I got to thinking about the logistics of this.

I would assume that the one rear wheel could spin either the left or right drum, but would this throw off the accuracy since it will be spinning a free drum?

I guess if it's always done the same way then it would still give an accurate reading when testing new modifications?
 

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So I was thinking I would go dyno my Slingshot as soon as I got it to get a good base line number before the mods begin, but I got to thinking about the logistics of this.

I would assume that the one rear wheel could spin either the left or right drum, but would this throw off the accuracy since it will be spinning a free drum?

I guess if it's always done the same way then it would still give an accurate reading when testing new modifications?
The left and right roller on an automobile dyno is always connected. So no problem putting torque to only one side. The bigger issue would be that the vehicle would be position a few feet to one side when strapped down. And often in-ground hooks for strapping won't be where they need to be for assymetric positioning. That's solvable though.
 

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Trying to find a dyno for this might be difficult. Regular motorcycle dyno could work but would need some extra logistics. You guys should try to schedule a trip to Spirit Lake when the plant is open for tours again, sometime around mid August, and see how Polaris does it... The plant is just up the road from me and I hit up a tour during one of their Victory Rallies a while ago and it is pretty cool to see.
 

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So I was thinking I would go dyno my Slingshot as soon as I got it to get a good base line number before the mods begin, but I got to thinking about the logistics of this.

I would assume that the one rear wheel could spin either the left or right drum, but would this throw off the accuracy since it will be spinning a free drum?

I guess if it's always done the same way then it would still give an accurate reading when testing new modifications?
The vehicle will have to see all 3 wheels spinning. More than that, the speed of each of the front wheels will have to be very close to the speed of the rear wheel otherwise the traction control will kick in. That can affect your performance numbers. In other words, it will take 2 electric motors in the front. Dynamometer only in the back is fine. Performance dynamometers out there are limited. You might be able to find one that has the front and the rear mechanically coupled and that would give you a perfect synchronization.
Unless you can disable the traction control ....
 

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The vehicle will have to see all 3 wheels spinning. More than that, the speed of each of the front wheels will have to be very close to the speed of the rear wheel otherwise the traction control will kick in. That can affect your performance numbers. In other words, it will take 2 electric motors in the front. Dynamometer only in the back is fine. Performance dynamometers out there are limited. You might be able to find one that has the front and the rear mechanically coupled and that would give you a perfect synchronization.
Unless you can disable the traction control ....
You can disable the traction control very easily with a button, therefore I am guessing that this should be fairly simple to Dyno. I am sure Hahn or TurboSling have this all figured out.

Can you guys post pics and videos of the Dyno runs and tuning?
 

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The vehicle will have to see all 3 wheels spinning. More than that, the speed of each of the front wheels will have to be very close to the speed of the rear wheel otherwise the traction control will kick in. That can affect your performance numbers. In other words, it will take 2 electric motors in the front. Dynamometer only in the back is fine. Performance dynamometers out there are limited. You might be able to find one that has the front and the rear mechanically coupled and that would give you a perfect synchronization.
Unless you can disable the traction control ....
What are you talking about? None of that is needed. We just dynoed a ss. The SS is very basic. The trac control is very very basic and doesn't seem to even do anything. If your going to dyno the SS you have to use a automotive dyno, mechanically this is not a motorcycle.
 
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