Talk to @[email protected]. He'll point you in the right direction.
Help Building a 400+ HP Engine
I currently have an alpha turbo and turbo header pushing about 300hp at 12psi. We installed head studs and I'm loving all of this new power. I have a friend of mine who will be soon running the same kit and of course I have to be faster than him. What are my options next as I want to modify the block to handle more boost. Would it be more cost effective to buy a built block and swap mine out or are there some cost effective upgrades I can have my mechanic do over the winter on my existing block? From what I read... the drive-train components, angle drive and belt can handle up to 400hp. Any help is greatly appreciated!
1 - 19 of 19 Posts
Put some giggle juice to it.
LC
LC
No, It's Stickers! Moroso, Summit, Edelbrock, Castrol, K&N, STP, Hoosier. Adds at least another 100hp.Put some giggle juice to it.
LC
For sure, put a [email protected] Sticker on mine--WOW--What a differanceNo, It's Stickers! Moroso, Summit, Edelbrock, Castrol, K&N, STP, Hoosier. Adds at least another 100hp.
So it seems the max the 2 bar tune can handle is 14psi which equates to about 350 horse. Is anybody running 14 PSI with some engine work? I'd love to get some input.
The 2 bar MAP sensor can handle a little more than 14psi, depending on what your starting ambient pressure is. We have done several builds now on Slingshots that are well over 350hp at the wheel and even over 400hp at the wheel with the 2 bar MAP sensor. Do not get too wrapped up in pressure vs. power, different turbos flow differently and some will make more power than others at the same pressure. There are a couple guys on the other forum that have built engines are and pushing some serious power.So it seems the max the 2 bar tune can handle is 14psi which equates to about 350 horse. Is anybody running 14 PSI with some engine work? I'd love to get some input.
Hope that helps,
Dave
Thank you Dave. I was looking at the blocks that you guys build on your site and was trying to weigh out my options even though I'm not very mechanically inclined. I have a good mechanic friend who is very knowledgeable and would do the labor for dirt cheap and a case of beer if we were to build it ourselves. What are my options I guess if there were different levels of how involved we wanted to get with this? The basics would be... we could put in eagle forged rods @iNewton , high compression pistons and what else would we need?.. and then i could turn the boost up? how much horse would that get me vs. The next more involved and more expensive option whatever that might be. I tried to do some research on my own but a lot of this is gibberish to meThe 2 bar MAP sensor can handle a little more than 14psi, depending on what your starting ambient pressure is. We have done several builds now on Slingshots that are well over 350hp at the wheel and even over 400hp at the wheel with the 2 bar MAP sensor. Do not get too wrapped up in pressure vs. power, different turbos flow differently and some will make more power than others at the same pressure. There are a couple guys on the other forum that have built engines are and pushing some serious power.
Hope that helps,
Dave
@TravAZ I was going to text you later today to ask your input on this topic as I love reading your posts. Please see my last post on this thread if you would be so kind.
Some might not have known what I meant when I said giggle juice..
Nitrous Express ML2000: Mainline EFI Single Nozzle Nitrous System Single Piranha Nozzle | JEGS
Hope the link works.
LC
Nitrous Express ML2000: Mainline EFI Single Nozzle Nitrous System Single Piranha Nozzle | JEGS
Hope the link works.
LC
Looks fun obviously lol but I don't want to get into the juice for the sling.Some might not have known what I meant when I said giggle juice..
Nitrous Express ML2000: Mainline EFI Single Nozzle Nitrous System Single Piranha Nozzle | JEGS
Hope the link works.
LC
I'm guessing some mod basics would be: resleeve the block, eagle forged pistons and corolla rods?
I think lower compression works better for turbo.
What color spring are you now running in your waste gate ?
Typically you would not want to raise compression when building an engine for higher boost levels, usually you lower the compression a little bit. The stock compression is 10.4:1 and we lower it to 9.5:1 with the Wiseco pistons and would recommend that compression level since it still makes the engine responsive, but still safe to run higher boost than you are planning. If you are in the engine doing the pistons, I would definitely recommend doing the rods at the same time. Make sure you replace all of the torque to yield bolts in the engine when building it back up also and use the ARP head studs to hold the cylinder head to the block.Thank you Dave. I was looking at the blocks that you guys build on your site and was trying to weigh out my options even though I'm not very mechanically inclined. I have a good mechanic friend who is very knowledgeable and would do the labor for dirt cheap and a case of beer if we were to build it ourselves. What are my options I guess if there were different levels of how involved we wanted to get with this? The basics would be... we could put in eagle forged rods @iNewton , high compression pistons and what else would we need?.. and then i could turn the boost up? how much horse would that get me vs. The next more involved and more expensive option whatever that might be. I tried to do some research on my own but a lot of this is gibberish to me
Building the engine by itself is not going to make anymore horsepower than it did stock, it will actually be down a little power if you use lower compression pistons, but the built engine will be able to take higher boost levels safer and for longer without going BOOM and net you more power and reliability.
No need to resleeve the block at the power levels you are talking about. Pistons and rods are definitely recommended. We have not used any pistons except the Wiseco pistons in our builds, but have used the Molnar and Carillo rods in builds depending on the customer requests. The Wiseco's are custom made for us and fit the 2.4L perfectly and come with slick side coating and ceramic tops to help protect the piston from the higher heat in a forced induction engine. The Molnar and Carillo rods are also made specifically for the 2.4L and have held up to everything customers have thrown at them without failure. I think CBM has the JE pistons, they are 2.2L pistons and have to use the 2.2L rods with them and I believe that the Eagle parts were the same.I'm guessing some mod basics would be: resleeve the block, eagle forged pistons and corolla rods?
Hope that helps,
Dave
Eagle rods are for the 2.2L ecotec and as such need a custom piston made with the pin repositioned higher.
This was the solution I used but if I had to redo I would just use molnar rods and wiseco pistons that are same spec as oem.
You don't need to touch the sleaves other than getting them honed for the new rings. I strongly suggest getting the block honed before getting the pistons because if you have cylinders that are out of round and need a bit more material removed to make them round again, it might throw off the piston mesurements.
Honestly, at the price DDM offers their built engine, I wouldn't have bothered building mine if it was available at the time. The time involved, the tools you need to get the job done and the possibility of a mistake during the process for 4K, I would just buy my peace of mind and get their built block ready to install.
This was the solution I used but if I had to redo I would just use molnar rods and wiseco pistons that are same spec as oem.
You don't need to touch the sleaves other than getting them honed for the new rings. I strongly suggest getting the block honed before getting the pistons because if you have cylinders that are out of round and need a bit more material removed to make them round again, it might throw off the piston mesurements.
Honestly, at the price DDM offers their built engine, I wouldn't have bothered building mine if it was available at the time. The time involved, the tools you need to get the job done and the possibility of a mistake during the process for 4K, I would just buy my peace of mind and get their built block ready to install.
What tires are you running for traction. I'm really curious cause im looking to get about 450whp to my slingshot? It would either be NT05R for track days and MT ET for drag.
Toyo R888 for track, and AD08r on street rims.What tires are you running for traction. I'm really curious cause im looking to get about 450whp to my slingshot? It would either be NT05R for track days and MT ET for drag.
We are running the Bridgestone RE-71R's right now, once they get some temperature in them they are pretty grippy.
Bridgestone Potenza RE-71R
Bridgestone Potenza RE-71R
1 - 19 of 19 Posts
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