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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
It bothers me when I'm working on a kit car and have to mentally swap everything because the fuse block is mounted upside-down. (Note to Polaris: I work on things from outside of the body, not where the engine is currently sitting.) Granted, they saved a little money and weight by being able to shorten the heavy wires to the relays by one-half inch, and they designed the vehicle with those savings in mind, and people rarely access the fuse block. Still, it doesn't look right, and I have enough on my mind that I don't need to be looking at everything backwards.

To rotate the fuse block, the housing it mounts to needs to be raised, or there won't be enough clearance. A 10mm socket, 5mm hex, and T40 Torx(tm) is needed.

Factory mount:

The aluminum heatsink can be removed via two 10mm bolts on the left (away from the driver's seat), allowing access to the far 5mm hex bolt (the long nut driver shows its position).

The T40 bolt is on the right (toward the driver's seat, with the bit stuck in it).
The 5mm hex is on the lower left.
Removing 9 relays and the fuses was in an effort to try to spin the fuse block without pulling the black housing, but there wasn't enough room. Knowing that, they probably don't need to be pulled.
The fuse block can then be unscrewed via two 5mm hex-head cap screws on either side.
The black housing can then be lifted, twisted out of the way, and the fuse block carefully rotated underneath the housing (I chose clockwise), having enough wire to properly orient the block.

Upon re-installation, the housing was screwed down 98% of the way on each bolt, making sure the position was correct before tightening the remainder of the way to *snug*, remembering it's a plastic housing and doesn't require monster-force.

The fuse block was screwed back up 95%, leaving wiggle-room to position it correctly so the cover fits securely and doesn't bind on the housing it mounts to. The cover was put on and the block was pushed toward the front of the vehicle as the driver's side screw was tightened first (helps hold position), then the front screw.

The aluminum heatsink was then replaced.

The fuse block cover was removed and replaced to make sure the block was serviceable.

Fuse block installed right-side-up.
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