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Discussion Starter #1
Just had my SS fixed. The main fuse block back by the battery completely melted after the fuse in the back. When it failed I had no lights, and not other electronics. The engine worked so I could drive but without all the electronics it was like driving an old truck. The 50 amp fuse was not melted but the fuse plastic was melted in place. The dealer went out of his way to fix it, but he thinks Polaris may say it' not under warrantee because I have extra lights installed up front, which would be crazy. If the fuse stayed intact and the fuse block after the fuse melted, that would be something they should look at as a recall.
 

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Yes, this is a fairly common issue actually. I have seen 3 just like this in person.

It is very possible that Polaris can/will deny your warranty because you have aftermarket lights installed. How are they to know what they are and if they were installed correctly?! Most people do it right, but other have had complete rats nests of lights.

From what I have seen, the fuse and gauge of wire used doesn't match correctly.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
I would believe it falls into the federal law that require the manufacture to prove that the aftermarket add on caused the issue, it' not my requirement to prove it didn't.
Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act makes it illegal for companies to void your warranty or deny
coverage under the warranty simply because you used an aftermarket part.

Knowing electronics, if the 50 amp fuse is in tact and the block melted, it tells me the fuse block itself could not handle the amps and it melted before the fuse that is designed to save the circuit.
 

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I would believe it falls into the federal law that require the manufacture to prove that the aftermarket add on caused the issue, it' not my requirement to prove it didn't.
Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act makes it illegal for companies to void your warranty or deny
coverage under the warranty simply because you used an aftermarket part.

Knowing electronics, if the 50 amp fuse is in tact and the block melted, it tells me the fuse block itself could not handle the amps and it melted before the fuse that is designed to save the circuit.
Just to play a wee bit of devils advocate looking at things from Polaris' prospective, how would Polaris know that you had the correct fuse installed when this damage occurred, many a folk have been known to stick in paper clips and such to bypass if a fuse persistently blows?

Bill
 

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Just to play a wee bit of devils advocate looking at things from Polaris' prospective, how would Polaris know that you had the correct fuse installed when this damage occurred, many a folk have been known to stick in paper clips and such to bypass if a fuse persistently blows?

Bill
Because in most cases, the fuse melts in the block and gets stuck and/or also shows damage.

This is a known issue from Polaris and some of the people that have had the issue have had really cobbled wiring with a bunch of accessories.
 

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Just had my SS fixed. The main fuse block back by the battery completely melted after the fuse in the back. When it failed I had no lights, and not other electronics. The engine worked so I could drive but without all the electronics it was like driving an old truck. The 50 amp fuse was not melted but the fuse plastic was melted in place. The dealer went out of his way to fix it, but he thinks Polaris may say it' not under warrantee because I have extra lights installed up front, which would be crazy. If the fuse stayed intact and the fuse block after the fuse melted, that would be something they should look at as a recall.
From the pic ONLY one Prong looks fried, I would want to follow that wire on the other end of the prong and see where it leads, because you my friend have an issue there I see........BUT i would surely want to follow that one wire....And as far as your aftermarket lights who did the install......and where are these lights connected ....
 

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Remember the original headlight situation? 2 x 65W + 2 x 55W bulbs on a circuit fused for 30A operated by a relay designed for 20A! Makes me wonder about wire capacity.
 

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Remember the original headlight situation? 2 x 65W + 2 x 55W bulbs on a circuit fused for 30A operated by a relay designed for 20A! Makes me wonder about wire capacity.
Total watts for that circuit = 240 Watts divided by 12 volts comes out to 20Amps. ??? I'm confused
 

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Total watts for that circuit = 240 Watts divided by 12 volts comes out to 20Amps. ??? I'm confused
The circuit is maxed out under normal use and does not leave room for surge current when you turn on the lights.

This is why I always tell people to use an alternate fuse block and make sure any add-ons go on their own circuit and never connected to the stock wiring so there is no way for polaris to ever use it as a scape goat.
 

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I know of one that has nothing but a taller windshield/baker wings added on that had this issue.
I guess Polaris would say that because of the extra static electricity picked up due to the extra drag of the taller windscreen and baker air wings that any warranty work for leaking seals and noisy gear boxes would be null and void! LOL
 

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Normally, when designing a circuit fused for 20 Amps, the typical max load the circuit would normally operate at should only be aroun 14 - 15A max to allow a safety cushion. What really got me about the original headlight circuit was using a breaker that should blow at 30A to protect a relay that was only rated at 20A! Kinda backwards since the relay should stress out long before the breaker would "protect" it!
 

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I guess Polaris would say that because of the extra static electricity picked up due to the extra drag of the taller windscreen and baker air wings that any warranty work for leaking seals and noisy gear boxes would be null and void! LOL
You know, with the half a dozen times or so that we took our SlingShot in for warranty work, never once did we hear, "We need to check this out with Polaris to see if they will cover it", the dealer always took care of the issue themselves?

Bill
 

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There are many postings of dealers being denied Polaris warranty on a unit. Polaris may ask for pictures and require it be plugged into the digital wrench for service warranty. They will ask the dealer if it has any aftermarket parts on the unit and may choose not to cover it without removal and back to oem. Read the fine print in the warranty clause. My fuse block under the hood melted in the light fuse, but I found a used box and replaced it myself because I have many aftermarket parts.
 

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There are many postings of dealers being denied Polaris warranty on a unit. Polaris may ask for pictures and require it be plugged into the digital wrench for service warranty. They will ask the dealer if it has any aftermarket parts on the unit and may choose not to cover it without removal and back to oem. Read the fine print in the warranty clause. My fuse block under the hood melted in the light fuse, but I found a used box and replaced it myself because I have many aftermarket parts.
Good post, I do not understand when it is written directly into the warranty that installing aftermarket parts may void that warranty, (I can fully understand their reasoning for doing this), but knowing this somebody still takes it upon themselves to go ahead and install aftermarket parts anyways, and then they get all sorts of upset when Polaris does void the warranty?

Bill
 

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Good post, I do not understand when it is written directly into the warranty that installing aftermarket parts may void that warranty, (I can fully understand their reasoning for doing this), but knowing this somebody still takes it upon themselves to go ahead and install aftermarket parts anyways, and then they get all sorts of upset when Polaris does void the warranty?
Bill
The key word in your comment is "may". Per the Magnusson-Moss Warranty Act, the manufacturer is supposed to prove the aftermarket item caused the problem before using the part as an excuse to deny warranty coverage.
 

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My slingshot has been in the shop for two months now with a melted fuse block. All of my aftermarket accessories run off an independent fuse block connected directly to the battery and only pulls a total of about 7 amps if everything was on all at once. Before my dealer would touch it under warranty, I had to pull the fuse block I installed even though it was completely separate. Obviously removing this did not change the problem with all other electronics dying while driving, so they got Polaris 'out of good faith' to agree to the replacement of the fuse block and main wiring harness. We'll see if that works.
They are charging me $275 for removal and reinstalling my rollcage, luggage racks and madstad windshield, because those are aftermarket and interfere with the wiring harness replacement. So if you're having the same problem, you may want to remove those yourself before you turn it in.
 

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Even if the circuit was over loaded, the fuse should have blown first should it not?
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Well, the power comes from the battery and to the fuse block, through the three fuses out to the sling wiring. The fuse block melted after the 50 amp fuse and before it ran the wire that goes the the front fuse box and every other electronic thing on the Sling, with the exception of the ABS brake circuit and the Engine circuit. If the attached electronics were the cause the fuse would blow and it didn.t it was still good except the melted fuse block was melted to it. So, how can anyone justify putting a 50 amp fuse in a fuse block that completely melts in under 50 amps? That is bad engineering and has zero to do with anything added to the circuit. If Polaris would do the right thing they would perform an ortopsy on that fuse block to identify the flaw in the production or design of that block. Think about it, if you were cooking eggs in a pan and the pan melted, would you be look at the eggs or the pan as the problem?
 
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