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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello all. Just joined the forum, I'm getting ready to pull the trigger on buying a Slingshot, I'm just not sure if I want to buy the factory radio. I know I can put in my own radio that will sound at least as good, for a lot less than the Factory.
Is the Ride Command very useful? Does it add to the experience? Does anyone know anything about the passive security system (It's apparently on everything except the base S, but I can't find anything about what it does).

For info, the two options I'm looking at are a Type R with Stage 3 audio and heated/cooled seats, or a bare bones S w/o tech package. I LOVE the new vented hood, I would be swapping to it.

Thanks,
 

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Hello NPloeg
I got the 2022 SL and as far as the radio goes I can't get not more than three radio stations to come in clearly. As far as the rest of the radio options GPS, Info center, etc. I guess is OK.
But if you are looking to listen to music... DON"T GET THE FACTORY RADIO!!!
 

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Pretty much since the beginning the factory infotainment unit was lacking. It worked okay with MP3's on a jump drive, however reception has never been even "okay" as far as I'm aware. (I could be wrong, so don't hold me to it.)

Generally, the solution has been to put in an aftermarket system. Personally, I wouldn't go for bass as the vehicle doesn't have the volume for large drivers, and since it's open-air most of it will be drown out anyway. It's not great as a parking-lot audio showoff either because of the lack of volume.

Rather than put a 10" shallow sub behind a seat, which is going to not be stellar as far as sound goes--think of putting a recliner in front of your home stereo speakers--except it has to be outside where there aren't walls--and while I'm on that, if you set home speakers about 12 to 18 inches off the wall the effective amplifier power is doubled due to "room gain," if you set the speaker up properly in a corner it's about equivalent to 4x the amplifier power meaning "double as loud."

Chew on that for a minute. That means if you have a 100 watt per channel home stereo system and your main listening speakers are in the corners of the room and set up properly, that means your Slingshot has to be putting out 400 watts per channel to match the output of your home stereo. AND, and the sound is not going to be bouncing off walls and windows, it's going thataway...meaning without building pressure in an enclosed area you're losing a lot of "room gain" as your sound squirts off into space. That's translating into some really big drivers that you don't have the volume to put the correct size box behind. If you have a high-output 12" sub at home, figure you're going to need at least an 18" sub in a 3-foot by 3-foot by 3-foot box. Ain't happening in a Slingshot.

Okay, that's overly-simplified, but it's conceptually why most Slingshot sound systems cost a lot and sound...not so great. Instead, put some stiff mid-bass drivers in paired with good mid and upper-range drivers and you're set. Don't use component drivers, the sound quality is going to be lost due to the environment. Your best bet is a marine speaker setup with matching amp. It won't kill your alternator, battery, budget, it'll last a long time, and it's going to sound as good or better than almost any system out there. In a Slingshot. We're not talking car audio. Awesome home audio isn't easy, quality car audio is difficult, open-air vehicles are, well, if you can make out the words of a song you haven't heard before while driving over 45 MPH without giving yourself a headache that's great.

Now, you know what I said isn't "technically accurate" because, at minimum, I told you it wasn't. But if you grasp the concepts you're doing better than most people, and you're probably going to save a whole lot of money and frustration, which you can put into other mods for your ride. If you want to. I did.

There are some people who will ask why they should believe this instead of something else. Start here:


 

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Damn. WI Hedgehog went all technical on us. :) The stock radios' in Slings are not good for general radio stations (plus who listens to radio anyways). Almost everyone uses Bluetooth from thier phone or the USB connection. Ride Command IS actually a good head unit. A lot of people switch to aftermarket which is fine (but not as waterproof). A harness adapter, a DSP, and amp or two, underseat subs (we seem to be the only shop doing this) and your system can be louder and cleaner than stock without braking the bank. Bonus is you get to keep your storage space too. Like Hedgehog said bass somewhat hard to gain (without losing all your storage and running big amps and sub boxes) but is attainable by using underseat powered subs. If you worry about the sound INSIDE the Sling instead of outside the Sling, you'll be happier.
 

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^^^THIS.

I run a waterproof tablet on a RAM mount to an aptX HQ Bluetooth receiver/amp under the rear deck to marine speakers and a BOSE sub under each seat. GPS, music, movies, phone calls, txt, lighting integration, it's all there. Unless I'm not and it's in my pocket. ;)

As @xd675x says, big sound, low power, and not over-priced.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Well, I placed my order yesterday. Getting a new R in 1-3 months. 1 month would be mid March and I'm in Michigan, but I'm already hoping I get to take a cold ride bringing it home.
I was making plans to buy an S, get the vented hood, and put together a radio (I've done a few car stereos before). And, eventually swap the front brakes because the base ones feel a bit squishy. But then I started thinking about how much work it was going to be to remove every body panel, re-paint, then re-install except with a new hood. And then hope I didn't have issues with the finish or some other warranty issue that Polaris might have a reason to ignore. Wasn't worth the money I'd save.
My biggest concern with the R was that, you're basically spending $2500 for what isn't a very good radio. I'm gonna order some AM pods, the ones that go under the roll bars. I'm not going to chase for great sound, WI_Hedgehog's description is basically the concern that left me asking the question. Getting good sound in an open vehicle is a losing battle. If I can get to decent sound, I'll be happy. CarPlay is there to solve reception, my phone can do the DJ work.

Thanks for the input.
 

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While I have a sound bar on my sling, most of the time I use bone conducting headphones and ear plugs. You'll get good sound at any speed, 100% legal everywhere and FAR MORE cost effective that putting together a decent sound system. For under $200 you can get a top of the line Aftershokz vs $2k+ for a vehicle stereo system.
 

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^^^THIS.

I run a waterproof tablet on a RAM mount to an aptX HQ Bluetooth receiver/amp under the rear deck to marine speakers and a BOSE sub under each seat. GPS, music, movies, phone calls, txt, lighting integration, it's all there. Unless I'm not and it's in my pocket. ;)

As @xd675x says, big sound, low power, and not over-priced.
What underseat subs are you running?
 

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(1) BOSE 4" poly sub in BOSE ported powered box, not recommended, though far better than (1) 8" shallow sub in a custom ported enclosure. The drivers pool water when it rains, the boxes start to fill with water if I'm stuck on a long freeway run, necessitating a drain hole that a.) can whistle due to box pressure, though rounding the inside and outside of the hole opening solved that, b.) can plug with dust which when wet forms sludge, c.) can plug with bits of other people's tire rubber shed during freeway travel.

A BOSE 4" poly sub in a BOSE sealed powered box is better, as long as the cone is kept clean. If the cone gets dirty the dirt will hold moisture, mold/fungus will use the moisture to grow, that will eventually break down the glue on the dust cap, then moist air will condense under the dust cap on a cold day and short the spider, shorting the amp. It depends on how humid the location is, and parts of Wisconsin are very humid.

Your optimal choice depends on your environment, dust acts like sandpaper when it comes to moving parts so fully sealed vertical boxes are generally better in open-topped vehicles. I like the sound of subs, the under-seat space was available, so it's a tradeoff.
 

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Do yourself a favor...connect your phone to some great earbuds and listen to anything you want through them. When you are driving, the road noise is too loud to listen to anything easily. When you are just sitting still, you probably are not listening to the radio, either. I got some Bose noise-canceling earbuds and they are great. Check your state laws about wearing earbuds while driving, though. If you wear a helmet, there are some small speakers that can go into them, as well, which are still much better than trying to listen to the radio that's in the Slingshot.
 

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Pretty much since the beginning the factory infotainment unit was lacking. It worked okay with MP3's on a jump drive, however reception has never been even "okay" as far as I'm aware. (I could be wrong, so don't hold me to it.)

Generally, the solution has been to put in an aftermarket system. Personally, I wouldn't go for bass as the vehicle doesn't have the volume for large drivers, and since it's open-air most of it will be drown out anyway. It's not great as a parking-lot audio showoff either because of the lack of volume.

Rather than put a 10" shallow sub behind a seat, which is going to not be stellar as far as sound goes--think of putting a recliner in front of your home stereo speakers--except it has to be outside where there aren't walls--and while I'm on that, if you set home speakers about 12 to 18 inches off the wall the effective amplifier power is doubled due to "room gain," if you set the speaker up properly in a corner it's about equivalent to 4x the amplifier power meaning "double as loud."

Chew on that for a minute. That means if you have a 100 watt per channel home stereo system and your main listening speakers are in the corners of the room and set up properly, that means your Slingshot has to be putting out 400 watts per channel to match the output of your home stereo. AND, and the sound is not going to be bouncing off walls and windows, it's going thataway...meaning without building pressure in an enclosed area you're losing a lot of "room gain" as your sound squirts off into space. That's translating into some really big drivers that you don't have the volume to put the correct size box behind. If you have a high-output 12" sub at home, figure you're going to need at least an 18" sub in a 3-foot by 3-foot by 3-foot box. Ain't happening in a Slingshot.

Okay, that's overly-simplified, but it's conceptually why most Slingshot sound systems cost a lot and sound...not so great. Instead, put some stiff mid-bass drivers in paired with good mid and upper-range drivers and you're set. Don't use component drivers, the sound quality is going to be lost due to the environment. Your best bet is a marine speaker setup with matching amp. It won't kill your alternator, battery, budget, it'll last a long time, and it's going to sound as good or better than almost any system out there. In a Slingshot. We're not talking car audio. Awesome home audio isn't easy, quality car audio is difficult, open-air vehicles are, well, if you can make out the words of a song you haven't heard before while driving over 45 MPH without giving yourself a headache that's great.

Now, you know what I said isn't "technically accurate" because, at minimum, I told you it wasn't. But if you grasp the concepts you're doing better than most people, and you're probably going to save a whole lot of money and frustration, which you can put into other mods for your ride. If you want to. I did.

There are some people who will ask why they should believe this instead of something else. Start here:


Waaaaoooo. Are you a professional installer of audio equipment or an aficionado that like to have the perfect sound. I have been installing audio since 1983 in college for competition and now I doit for SS. To have a nice sound on your SS you don’t need to sacrifice your pocket and you don’t need all that crap. But all I have to said is, if you want nice sound, get with the shop that know about SS and ask to hear one of their work. Join Slingshot if Florida. Some of the best shops post there and you can see their stuff…
 

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Hello all. Just joined the forum, I'm getting ready to pull the trigger on buying a Slingshot, I'm just not sure if I want to buy the factory radio. I know I can put in my own radio that will sound at least as good, for a lot less than the Factory.
Is the Ride Command very useful? Does it add to the experience? Does anyone know anything about the passive security system (It's apparently on everything except the base S, but I can't find anything about what it does).

For info, the two options I'm looking at are a Type R with Stage 3 audio and heated/cooled seats, or a bare bones S w/o tech package. I LOVE the new vented hood, I would be swapping to it.

Thanks,
I purchased this marine radio from Amazaan CD USB and Bluetooth Just under $100.00 Waqnted to make swure water would not hurt.
 

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I purchased this marine radio from Amazaan CD USB and Bluetooth Just under $100.00 Waqnted to make swure water would not hurt.
I’m one of the audio installers and I can tell you tha radio will not last your day. It is not water proof and it have more hole were water can get in that a colander. If you want a cheapo one that is good and waterproof get the boss radio mrcp9685A
 

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I’m one of the audio installers and I can tell you tha radio will not last your day. It is not water proof and it have more hole were water can get in that a colander. If you want a cheapo one that is good and waterproof get the boss radio mrcp9685A
I'm not a fan of that Boss unit. I know of one person that installed it into a Slingshot. Never even saw direct rain and the screen fogged up so bad he couldn't see anything.

It's too bad Sony didn't keep making this one. It wasn't even marine rated but, could handle tons of water.
 
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