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Thank you for this post. I installed them yesterday and encountered the same "poltergeist" action on my workbench with my tools. You mentioned pinching your fingers, well I went one step further, they took a huge chunk of skin off my thumb. I permanently installed mine with good ol' JB Weld. Hoping that works, or even hoping the hood still opens. I didn't want to drill holes in the hood as suggested by other "fixes" so this is, in my opinion, the best option.
Did the JB weld hold?
 

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I cured my fender flapping with industrial strength velcro. I attached it to the rubber bumpers and to the underneath of the hood where they meet. The same rough road that had them rattling all over the place now has no effect at all. It's a little harder to open the hood, but doable. So far they have stayed in place.....but I can't say for sure what the summer heat will do to them.
 

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I cured my fender flapping with industrial strength velcro. I attached it to the rubber bumpers and to the underneath of the hood where they meet. The same rough road that had them rattling all over the place now has no effect at all. It's a little harder to open the hood, but doable. So far they have stayed in place.....but I can't say for sure what the summer heat will do to them.
I bought some magnets from a company that had holes drilled in the middle of them to secure to the turn signal housing. Each magnet is rated at 40 lbs. so I put two on each side. I had the other magnets described in the original post but I couldn't them secured and the Gorilla tape was "tacky", not to mention it became separated from the body panel. This seems to do the trick.
 

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I bought some magnets from a company that had holes drilled in the middle of them to secure to the turn signal housing. Each magnet is rated at 40 lbs. so I put two on each side. I had the other magnets described in the original post but I couldn't them secured and the Gorilla tape was "tacky", not to mention it became separated from the body panel. This seems to do the trick.
Thank You 4 Sharing


holes in the magnet for easy mounting

............................... tom n carol
 

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do you remember the length of the pins....I'm looking at daystar poly isolating hood pins for fiberglass so no cracking...but the pins are 3.313" long I'm wondering if that's long enough....do you know the length he used
I don't remember and mine is 1k miles away right now. @Mniron
 

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I don't remember and mine is 1k miles away right now. @Mniron
Four inch pins, I can supply parts on request for the same price as other dealers. Warning to those that purchase a system that removes the fender bumper, repairs are expensive to this system if you want a pristine SlingShot. I have develop a repair kit and repair that system at Rallies but I cannot fix the cracked paint on the fenders. You can look at a video on my Facebook
 

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Four inch pins, I can supply parts on request for the same price as other dealers. Warning to those that purchase a system that removes the fender bumper, repairs are expensive to this system if you want a pristine SlingShot. I have develop a repair kit and repair that system at Rallies but I cannot fix the cracked paint on the fenders. You can look at a video on my Facebook
hey Mniron I was looking for an old school look and seen the daystar KU71104BK...it has poly isolators made for fiberglass hoods so not to crack or damage them but pin is 3.313" long.....is that not long enough do you sell those that will fit or do you think 3.313" is long enough....thanks you for any help
 

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hey Mniron I was looking for an old school look and seen the daystar KU71104BK...it has poly isolators made for fiberglass hoods so not to crack or damage them but pin is 3.313" long.....is that not long enough do you sell those that will fit or do you think 3.313" is long enough....thanks you for any help
I think the 3.313” pin should work. From the bracket where the bumper is mounted to the topside of the fender is 2 5/8” to 2 3/4” when you drop the fender bumpers down. I do not carry that product.
 
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