Heated seat pads. Available on Amazon for around $30-40. One can easily be lugged into the power outlet above the cup holders, maybe 2 if the current draw is low enough for the circuit, or you can try adding a 2nd fuse block and run power cables for the second pad, if you need more than one. The seat pad I bought has both a cooling fan as well as heating capability.
Cup Holders - If I wasn't concerned about blocking the view to my AFR/Boost gauge mounted under the dash cover above my ignition switch, I'd add
Polaris Slingshot Dash Mount Cup Holders with Sun Visor. I've read where users have placed 30 oz metal insulated cups in them.
Couldn't tell from the pics, but if you don't already have an AFR/Boost gauge, having both or a combo gauge is essential for monitoring your AFR vs Boost levels, especially with a turbo. SCs build boost gradually and directly related to RPMs, but turbos can produce a wider range of boost pretty much unrelated to RPMs. Getting your turbo to produce high levels of boost combined with high AFR readings (anything much over 15-16) means you risk grenading your engine. When decelerating and my foot off the gas, I sometimes see AFRs over 20. When accelerating, my AFR can drop down to the 10-12 range, but typically is close to 14-15. It's also a good thing to simply know that your system isn't generating more boost than expected. I have a Hahn Stage 2 turbo kit and generally don't expect to see boost levels much over 7 psi, but have occasionally seen it go over 8 psi. Unexpectedly high boost levels might be a sign of a vacuum line problem. Check with the manufcaturer of your turbo kit for expected boost levels. Most common AFR/Boost gauges eem to be the AEM untis followed byt he Innovate SCG-1 unt I use. The SCG-1 comes with a solenoid so you can set it to shut the boost off if conditions get out of whack, but I don't have that option setup.
I can definitely recommend the DDM Works Short Throw Shifter. Big Difference in how far you need to move the shifter. Takes a little more effort, but adding a heavy shift knob can help smooth shifting.
I've thought about adding a removable steering wheel, but after having swapped thru 2 steering wheels and inadvertently breaking my clock spring the second time, I'm not in a great hurry to mess with a third steering wheel removal to add the removable capability. Be careful if you try the switch as some removable setups move the steering wheel noticeably closer to the driver (steering wheel design can also affect this).
If your SLR already has upgraded coilovers, the need for better shocks is much less, but aftermarket coilovers can make a big difference in handling compared to stock coilovers. I have single-adjustable Bilstein coilovers and hope to be able to upgrade to two- or three-way adjustables when I have them rebuilt by Bilstein. Currently, the cheapest path to 2- or 3-way adjustables is via QA1s setup for the Slingshot. There are threads on picking springs and QA1 shocks to roll your own, but I think it's simpler to order them already setup. There are several threads on different brand coilovers available. (I was considering the used set of QA1s that
@wjfyfe just bragged about!) 😢
I had a MadStad (also sold as a Twist Dynamics) Single Adjustable 13" windshield for several years. The widhsield allows vertical as well as limited angle adjustment. Great airflow underneath the windshield in hot weather. Didn't care for the coule times bugs detonated at the bottom edge and bug parts flew all over, though. I also drilled a second set of mounting holes that allowed me to position the windhsiled even lower to my hood. I actually made them a liitle too high, resulting in the windshield beisng so close to the hood thast I had to raise the windshield before opening the hood. I swapped the MadStad for an AllThingsSlingshot Tallboy Plus 2 since I was worried about water coming under the windshield and possibly damaging my AFR/Boost gauge. Fits well with the lines of my Twist Dynamics Top and was designed to fit with the Slingshade. F4 Customs makes some very durable, scratch-resistant windshields in several sizes if you want a slighlt more vertical windshield.
I ran gas cartridges on each side of the hood for several years, but changing to the ZZ Performance Billet Hood hinges provides a LOT more access under the hood near the front of the engine compartment, as do the DDM Works hood hinge kit. The ZZP kit doesn't normally use cartridges and is well balanced, but reportdly can also ise gas cartridges to make it easier to open/close. I can open my hood to the point that the front edge is within about 2" of the ground. The DDM kit does use a gas cartridge to make it easier to avoid dropping the hood when closing.
Lots of little things can be added, if desired. I have the DDM Works Master Cylinder Brace (haven't gotten around to installing it). I also have the 2-Bar MAP Sensor clip to hopefully help make sure it doesn't pop off.
I'm currently fiddling with replacing the stock outer auxiliary headlights and the Canadian Headlights with Hella 90mm High and Low beam separate units. I hope to post something soon. I also want to wire the outer Low beam units to a circuit independent of the main headlight circuit so I always have access to a set of working headlights.
I got tired of having to readjust (bend back) the stock Lower Front Wing after hitting critters during night rides. Several years ago, I replaced the Front Lower Wing with a rear deck spopiler I bought on EBay and replaced it about 1 year ago with a MadSatd Ultimate Bumper with some strip lights in the middle of the bumper panels. I had a young lady come up one night and said she worked at a Slingshot dealer, but she couldn't figure out what was different about mine other than the front end looked different. The MadStad bumper is all metal and easily adjustable.
Some folks also like upgrading the front sway bar with a heavier unit for better handling. IIRC, later model Slingshots may not have the sway bar locks to limit sideways sway bar movement.
