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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Guys, while designing our big brake kit ,we notice a huge problem with why the brakes on slingshot feel really mushy. The fire wall on the SS where the master cylinder mounts to is very thin and causes the master cylinder to flex heavily under pedal pressure. There is a ton of vertical and lateral movement on the master cylinder when you apply pressure to the brakes.

We have found that the OEM master cylinder acutally move almost 0.100" (little less than 1/8"). This can be seen in the video below. We were able to reduce this movement with our master cylinder brace to .008" - .010".
That is roughly 90% reduction in flex and you can feel a HUGE difference in pedal feel. Our brace will be available for purchase in 1.5 weeks. They will be CNC'd from 6061 billet aluminum and anodized for corrosion protection.

Price $139


*****CLICK HERE TO ORDER*****
Full Blown Polaris Slingshot Brake Master Cylinder Brace - FRS, BRZ, Turbo Kit, Fabrication, Fuel System
 

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I figured it out... It was somewhat confusing to begin with, but it sorted itself out.

  1. To fit the brace, you must set it in place with the squared back plate first, dropping it in downward, then gently rotating it so the back plate is against the outer wall, making sure that the logo faces upwards.
  2. Locate the 'T40' bolt at the outer edge of the plastic body skirting, and remove it. Set it aside as a spare to use elsewhere, because you will not re-use it with this brace.
  3. Replace the 'T40' bolt you just removed with the longer narrow bolt that is included with the kit. This bolt threads into place through the Slingshot body, but not the brace. Use the included Locnut to secure this bolt, but don't tighten it just yet.
  4. Insert the larger bolt into the hole immediately in front of the other, and secure it with the included washer and nut. (I used blue Loc-Tite as well).
  5. Once both bolts are in place, tighten down securely.
  6. Tighten the nose bolt down to hold the Master Cylinder firmly in place, and then lock the nut against the bolt so that it can't walk loose. (Again, I used blue Loc-Tite).
Due to the confined work space, I kept dropping the nuts and bolts, so if you have a magnetic wand, I would strongly suggest having it handy. A very small adjustable light source will also be a big help, in order to see what you're working on, and I also found that a pair of long nosed needle-nose pliers came in very handy to hold the nuts in place, while attaching the bolts.

EVERY SLINGSHOT NEEDS THIS!

-Tim
 

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I figured it out... It was somewhat confusing to begin with, but it sorted itself out.

  1. To fit the brace, you must set it in place with the squared back plate first, dropping it in downward, then gently rotating it so the back plate is against the outer wall, making sure that the logo faces upwards.
  2. Locate the 'T40' bolt at the outer edge of the plastic body skirting, and remove it. Set it aside as a spare to use elsewhere, because you will not re-use it with this brace.
  3. Replace the 'T40' bolt you just removed with the longer narrow bolt that is included with the kit. This bolt threads into place through the Slingshot body, but not the brace. Use the included Locnut to secure this bolt, but don't tighten it just yet.
  4. Insert the larger bolt into the hole immediately in front of the other, and secure it with the included washer and nut. (I used blue Loc-Tite as well).
  5. Once both bolts are in place, tighten down securely.
  6. Tighten the nose bolt down to hold the Master Cylinder firmly in place, and then lock the nut against the bolt so that it can't walk loose. (Again, I used blue Loc-Tite).
Due to the confined work space, I kept dropping the nuts and bolts, so if you have a magnetic wand, I would strongly suggest having it handy. A very small adjustable light source will also be a big help, in order to see what you're working on, and I also found that a pair of long nosed needle-nose pliers came in very handy to hold the nuts in place, while attaching the bolts.

EVERY SLINGSHOT NEEDS THIS!

-Tim
Thanks... so, how would you describe the braking action before and after?
 

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Braking prior to installation was very spongy.. Unfortunately my SS is in the shop right now, so I haven't had a chance to drive it yet.

Since one of the issues is/was the Brake Failure light which was caused by the brake sensor switchs on the Master Cylinder, I wanted to swing by the shop while they are still working on replacing the rear bearings before they got to the brake issue, so they could clear the codes AFTER the brace was installed, in order to best see how well this fixes the problem.

I did however press the brake pedal a few times before and after installation, and could feel a HUGE difference just in the feel of the pedal. It was very firm and appeared to be a much shallower pedal, rather than soft and bottoming out.

I'm sorry that I can't give a better reply involving an actual road test just yet, but hopefully we'll have it back within the next day or so......
 

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In my previous experience with FBM, they are bad about not including the directions, but then they follow-up rather quickly with tech support and a online source for install tips. How much is the brace and is it available now?
 

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I figured it out... It was somewhat confusing to begin with, but it sorted itself out.

  1. To fit the brace, you must set it in place with the squared back plate first, dropping it in downward, then gently rotating it so the back plate is against the outer wall, making sure that the logo faces upwards.
  2. Locate the 'T40' bolt at the outer edge of the plastic body skirting, and remove it. Set it aside as a spare to use elsewhere, because you will not re-use it with this brace.
  3. Replace the 'T40' bolt you just removed with the longer narrow bolt that is included with the kit. This bolt threads into place through the Slingshot body, but not the brace. Use the included Locnut to secure this bolt, but don't tighten it just yet.
  4. Insert the larger bolt into the hole immediately in front of the other, and secure it with the included washer and nut. (I used blue Loc-Tite as well).
  5. Once both bolts are in place, tighten down securely.
  6. Tighten the nose bolt down to hold the Master Cylinder firmly in place, and then lock the nut against the bolt so that it can't walk loose. (Again, I used blue Loc-Tite).
Due to the confined work space, I kept dropping the nuts and bolts, so if you have a magnetic wand, I would strongly suggest having it handy. A very small adjustable light source will also be a big help, in order to see what you're working on, and I also found that a pair of long nosed needle-nose pliers came in very handy to hold the nuts in place, while attaching the bolts.

EVERY SLINGSHOT NEEDS THIS!

-Tim
I got mine today and just finished the installation.
Thanks a lot @tgreen223 for the very helpful tips.
Unfortunately it rains like crazy over here so I can not test drive it.
@tgreen223 did you get a chance to drive it after installation?
 

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Thank you.. Unfortunately it's still in the shop, up on the rack, having the rear bearings replaced.

We're "hoping" to maybe get it back by the end of the day today, but it's not looking good since we haven't heard anything from the shop yet.

For clarification, I went to the shop yesterday and installed the brake brace while the technician was working on the rear-end of my SS.
 

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DRIVING UPDATE

I picked our SS up from the shop this afternoon, and even though it's still throwing codes due to faulty switches (a new claim is being put in), the brake performance is night and day with this brace!!

It honestly took about 5-6 attempts at hard braking until it went from a spongy slow-down, to the point where it actually appeared to bark the rear tire and leave a small skid mark. After that, in each attempt, stopping was as immediate as it could possibly be with the anti-locks kicked in. Previously, in no attempt ever did the anti-locks activate!

Our SS will have to go back to the hospital again when the new brake cylinder switches arrive, but we were told that it would likely only be a 30-45 minute "while you wait" process. In the meantime however, the stopping power is absolutely exceptional.

PS: @Full Blown -- Our shirts arrived today, and my wife and I love them... You guys rock!! (of course she immediately snagged the purple)

-Tim
 

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DRIVING UPDATE

I picked our SS up from the shop this afternoon, and even though it's still throwing codes due to faulty switches (a new claim is being put in), the brake performance is night and day with this brace!!

It honestly took about 5-6 attempts at hard braking until it went from a spongy slow-down, to the point where it actually appeared to bark the rear tire and leave a small skid mark. After that, in each attempt, stopping was as immediate as it could possibly be with the anti-locks kicked in. Previously, in no attempt ever did the anti-locks activate!

Our SS will have to go back to the hospital again when the new brake cylinder switches arrive, but we were told that it would likely only be a 30-45 minute "while you wait" process. In the meantime however, the stopping power is absolutely exceptional.

PS: @Full Blown -- Our shirts arrived today, and my wife and I love them... You guys rock!! (of course she immediately snagged the purple)

-Tim

I installed the brace today and while it took a bit of the "spongy" feel out of the brake pedal on initial hard application and slightly shortens that first throw as the pads set, that is all it does, and all I was expecting it to do. It has no other effect on braking. Its more a feel thing than anything so for that it works. If you are expecting it to make your brakes work better you should first bleed them really well, then replace your pads, then add the brace, in that order. The brace is like fine tuning the pedal feel, nothing else. Which as mentioned is exactly what I was looking for it to do.

The unit is stout but I must say that I was sadly disappointed in the hardware provided for installation (which as mentioned was left to the owner to figure out) It is mounted with only two bolts, one of which is also used to secure a plastic body panel and the provided bolt was shorter than the stock bolt it replaced so was absolutely no good. I had to source new hardware (luckily I have a shop full) and fixed up a proper bolt with a large washer and shoulder bushing so that there is no stress put on the plastic fender panel. I replaced both bolts with longer 8.8 hardware, washers, and lock nuts. The longer bolts made installation much easier and catch more than a few threads. The unit fits a little cocked on the MC but it works for what it is supposed to do, just wish it had a larger footprint and at least one more substantial mounting point. I also cut a carbon fiber disk to fit between the adjusting bolt and the end of the MC to prevent galling. With no instructions it is probably worth mentioning that this adjustment is only to take up slack, it should just be snugged up then the lock nut set.

It works, but you have to be realistic in what you are expecting it to do.

.
 

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Just got my kit today, and instructions to install this would be nice. They included 2 bolts, but the smaller one that is supposed to go thru the plastic cover and the brace is much too short its a pita to install.
 

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That's just ridiculous that a custom piece like this, designed to only be used in one unique way, doesn't come with any instruction on how they've designed it to be installed and used. Should take them all of ten minutes to type that up.
 

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I figured it out... It was somewhat confusing to begin with, but it sorted itself out.

  1. To fit the brace, you must set it in place with the squared back plate first, dropping it in downward, then gently rotating it so the back plate is against the outer wall, making sure that the logo faces upwards.
  2. Locate the 'T40' bolt at the outer edge of the plastic body skirting, and remove it. Set it aside as a spare to use elsewhere, because you will not re-use it with this brace.
  3. Replace the 'T40' bolt you just removed with the longer narrow bolt that is included with the kit. This bolt threads into place through the Slingshot body, but not the brace. Use the included Locnut to secure this bolt, but don't tighten it just yet.
  4. Insert the larger bolt into the hole immediately in front of the other, and secure it with the included washer and nut. (I used blue Loc-Tite as well).
  5. Once both bolts are in place, tighten down securely.
  6. Tighten the nose bolt down to hold the Master Cylinder firmly in place, and then lock the nut against the bolt so that it can't walk loose. (Again, I used blue Loc-Tite).
Due to the confined work space, I kept dropping the nuts and bolts, so if you have a magnetic wand, I would strongly suggest having it handy. A very small adjustable light source will also be a big help, in order to see what you're working on, and I also found that a pair of long nosed needle-nose pliers came in very handy to hold the nuts in place, while attaching the bolts.

EVERY SLINGSHOT NEEDS THIS!

-Tim
 

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If you read my post above, I typed it up...
That is super nice of you, but seriously FB should include proper instructions, AND bolts long enough to install it properly. As it stands now, I can only catch thread on the big bolt, the smaller one I can't get it to screw on, so I will need to make a trip to the hardware store not what I expect when I shell out 150US for a little bracket. Unless I am installing it wrong, but that would bring me back to part 1 of this comment about proper instructions.

Not impressed.
 

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The bolts that I received fit just fine, and it wouldn't make any sense for FBM to ship different sized bolts to people... As out of spec as these damn Slings are, I would be willing to bet theres a far greater chance that the differences are due to f'd up vehicle specs, rather than bolts! :mad:
 

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The bolts that I received fit just fine, and it wouldn't make any sense for FBM to ship different sized bolts to people... As out of spec as these damn Slings are, I would be willing to bet theres a far greater chance that the differences are due to f'd up vehicle specs, rather than bolts! :mad:
The small bolt supplied with mine barely extended though the nut welded on the frame that holds the plastic fender, it is actually no longer than the black shouldered Torx bolt it replaces. Whether as intended or not I am confident in the way I have mine installed but would love to hear from @Full Blown on the matter.

.
 
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