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Discussion Starter #1
I am looking to add a second battery (deep cycle) for LED lighting and accessories. I plan to order this battery isolator kit to protect the starting battery and to charge both batteries when the engine is running. This setup will also allow a Battery Tender to charge both batteries when Sling is parked in my garage. My Neutrino Black Box will be wired back to the deep cycle battery, and all lighting and accessories will be connected to it.

HAS ANYONE INSTALLED a second battery in their Slingshot? Where did you mount it? How did you secure it?

Thank you in advance.
 

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I can not offer much help but have been around boats all my life and would look for a good marine battery isolator. They have been proven and commercial guys lives depend on them. I have found out that quality marine items are better than what you would normally find in an auto motive store. They are more expensive due to the quality of the parts and wiring but would look into the higher end marine stuff for peace of mind..
Articles on Marine Isolators and their uses and set ups are common.
 

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@RABTECH, a former forum member, posted about having his battery isolator setup to automatically cutoff the accessories powered off the second battery once it discharges to a certain point. This allows both batteries to be charged from the alternator, but keeps the main battery isolated from the second battery powering his accessories and keeping it ready to power the Slingshot's starter and everything else not connected to the second battery.
 

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I think this would be a desirable set up for someone who has a lot of accessories to power.
Do you know the amp output of the SS alternator?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I can not offer much help but have been around boats all my life and would look for a good marine battery isolator. They have been proven and commercial guys lives depend on them. I have found out that quality marine items are better than what you would normally find in an auto motive store. They are more expensive due to the quality of the parts and wiring but would look into the higher end marine stuff for peace of mind..
Articles on Marine Isolators and their uses and set ups are common.
Agreed... I have the isolator on order.
 

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If you install a larger main battery, you can buy a device inexpensively that will cut off accessory power if the voltage drops to a cut off limit, still allowing enough to start the vehicle. I have full size battery mounted in the back and have left my stereo and LED lights running for hours and no problem with starting.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
@RABTECH, a former forum member, posted about having his battery isolator setup to automatically cutoff the accessories powered off the second battery once it discharges to a certain point. This allows both batteries to be charged from the alternator, but keeps the main battery isolated from the second battery powering his accessories and keeping it ready to power the Slingshot's starter and everything else not connected to the second battery.
That's my thinking as well. I have the BlackBox set to kill circuits below specified voltage to preserve starting ability now. Will modify slightly once it is set to feed from the deep-cycle instead of starting battery.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
If you install a larger main battery, you can buy a device inexpensively that will cut off accessory power if the voltage drops to a cut off limit, still allowing enough to start the vehicle. I have full size battery mounted in the back and have left my stereo and LED lights running for hours and no problem with starting.
I thought about that, but think the more conservative approach of a second, deep-cycle, battery will provide even more protection. I'm open to being swayed otherwise.

I see you have the grey-top Optima. Why that, and not the yellow top that so many others seem to gravitate towards?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
This older thread references adding a second battery - http://www.slingshotforums.com/threads/rabtech-my-a-d-d-led-project.11478/page-12. See post # 20.Check around post # 134/135. Not really a how-to, but there are several references to battery isolators sprinkled throughout the thread. See post # 418. Also see post # 20 in this thread - http://www.slingshotforums.com/threads/sudden-loss-of-stored-electrons-aka-dead-battery.11992/page-2#post-263485
Awesome leads, thank you!
 

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I think this would be a desirable set up for someone who has a lot of accessories to power.
Do you know the amp output of the SS alternator?
130 Amps.
Undergroud Autostyling offers 2 high output alternators - 170A or 240A, but they aint cheap ($340 - 640)
 

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BKL,
Thanks for the alternator output. I had not thought it would be that amount.
That output should support a good amount of drain as long as you do not drain for extended periods without engine running.
Does anyone know what the amp drain is at idle or when just running the engine?
Being around boats, I did not realize just how much amp drain was involved with just running all the essentials.
However, the SS battery is much larger that most outboard boat batteries.
Just trying to get a feel for how much battery and alternator is needed.
 

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While I don't know the basic load on the battery during engine-off conditions, the stock alternator should be sufficient for most operating conditions unless you have a lot of powered accessories such as decorative lights and a really powerful amplifier (several hundred Watts (RMS not Music power or Peak-to-Peak). Running a large amp and/or lots of lights for an extended period w/o running the motor will definitely affect most batteries. A lot of show vehicles run second batteries just for that reason.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
From that page:
Note: The difference between BLUETOP and YELLOWTOP deep-cycle batteries is that BLUETOP batteries have both automotive (SAE) posts and threaded studs, while YELLOWTOPS (other than D31T) only have SAE terminals.

If you ever get confused about the colored tops, just remember: If it has a dark gray case, then it’s a starting battery; if it has a light gray case, then it’s a deep-cycle (dual-purpose) battery.

I'm guessing that If I change to a single battery, I'd go with the light gray case with blue top, so I would have the threaded posts and not have to change my battery connectors. Is that correct, or are the posts larger than the eyelets used on most connectors such as factory battery cables, Battery Tender connectors, etc.?
 

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While I've never dealt with an Optima or other brand dual-post battery, I think I'd like one just so I can use the second post to connect accessory leads for jumpers or auxiliary power leads to a second fuse box or amp.

I also found these on EBay, but they should be available from other sources as well -
heavy duty battery terminal | eBay. These appear to be aimed at 4 or 8 gauge battery cables + extra connectors.

This link shows the same type of multi-cable connector designed to handle 0 gauge or smaller cables/leads -
heavy duty battery terminal 0 gauge | eBay.

I am seriously thinking about cutting off the ends of my battery cables and replacing the battery connection with something like these.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
While I've never dealt with an Optima or other brand dual-post battery, I think I'd like one just so I can use the second post to connect accessory leads for jumpers or auxiliary power leads to a second fuse box or amp.

I also found these on EBay, but they should be available from other sources as well -
heavy duty battery terminal | eBay. These appear to be aimed at 4 or 8 gauge battery cables + extra connectors.

This link shows the same type of multi-cable connector designed to handle 0 gauge or smaller cables/leads -
heavy duty battery terminal 0 gauge | eBay.

I am seriously thinking about cutting off the ends of my battery cables and replacing the battery connection with something like these.
Thank you for the great info. I saw those connectors, and they look interesting. I suspect I'd leave the plastic protective caps on the top SAE connectors, and connect everything to the terminals threaded into the "GM" terminals on the battery face. This way, I can "easily" remove any/all connectors if necessary.
 

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Thank you for the great info. I saw those connectors, and they look interesting. I suspect I'd leave the plastic protective caps on the top SAE connectors, and connect everything to the terminals threaded into the "GM" terminals on the battery face. This way, I can "easily" remove any/all connectors if necessary.
If using the side terminals instead of the top terminals, just remember side terminals usually take a different connector. If you want a multi-cable connector for a side terminal, I only noticed 1 or 2 choices on EBay, for example.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
If using the side terminals instead of the top terminals, just remember you may side terminals usually take a different connector. If you ant a multi-cable connector for a side terminal, I only noticed 1 or 2 choices on EBay, for example.
I expect to use standard eye connectors, currently used on stock battery, on the side terminals. Do you envision any problems with this approach?
 
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