This should work well, but with a single rear wheel, it may not offer quite as much tracking stability during turns as a typical four-wheeled vehicle would during such flat-towing, so it might merit some closer study. My fear is that the single rear wheel might slide to some degree, rather than force the front wheels to steer so as to follow the tow vehicle through turns. Maybe some of the T-rex or Spyder faithful have already tried this and can offer input.From watching the videos several weeks ago, this is what I think would be needed for the belt - socket set w/torque wrench, spring tension gauge, maybe some combo wrenches. Doesn't really seem too much of a problem.
I am still considering rigging some tow points to the front of the Slingshot so I can remove the belt and use an A-frame tow-bar to haul the Slingshot around. If the belt removal and re-installation isn't a major job (something that remains TBD) this would offer the cheapest towing option.
I'm hopeful it will work well too! Say, do you happen to have a link to that belt swap video? Would love to see the hardware in action.Bill, I don't expect towing via an A-frame tow-bar attached to the front of the slingshot to cause a problem. According to the training video I watched, removing or loosening the belt is done from the front of the swingarm and once loosened it doesn't look to any effort to remove the belt completely. My main intent with disconnecting/removing the belt was to prevent anything beyond the rear axle turning when towed.
Either way, I think it should work. The hardest part will be determining the strongest points for mounting the tow-points at the front of the Slingshot. Right now, I'm assuming either mounting to the tube frame itself or somewhere on the metal frame holding the suspension/engine mounts.
Given the relatively high cost of most suitable trailers, I think whoever build an inexpensive, reliable tow system such as this will have a profitable product.