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Discussion Starter #1
After watching the maintenance video on changing
the belt. It appears we won't be able to change the
belt on the road.:(
Your thoughts opinions on this matter.
Would have liked to do this on the road if
needed.
Thanks
 

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They've rated the belt at an at least 100K mile lifetime (being a carbon fiber-reinforced Kevlar belt), so just plan to change it sometime before you hit that mark and you will have a very low chance of being stranded on the road from a broken belt.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Was thinking about road debris.
And :):nailbiting: Forced Induction.
My Kitty is going to have a awesome growl.
Thanks
 
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Fear not. This technology is well-proven on motorcycles. Road debris is not a problem we'd anticipate, for the location of the belt is well-protected, and not directly behind the blast of either front wheel.
 

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hopefully if needed there will be a cell tower close, sit back and enjoy the tunes while you wait on the flatbed.
 

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I thought it was reinforced with carbon fiber? Sounds like it can take a good amount of abuse. I wonder what a spare one costs?
 

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From watching the videos several weeks ago, this is what I think would be needed for the belt - socket set w/torque wrench, spring tension gauge, maybe some combo wrenches. Doesn't really seem too much of a problem.
I am still considering rigging some tow points to the front of the Slingshot so I can remove the belt and use an A-frame tow-bar to haul the Slingshot around. If the belt removal and re-installation isn't a major job (something that remains TBD) this would offer the cheapest towing option.
 
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From watching the videos several weeks ago, this is what I think would be needed for the belt - socket set w/torque wrench, spring tension gauge, maybe some combo wrenches. Doesn't really seem too much of a problem.
I am still considering rigging some tow points to the front of the Slingshot so I can remove the belt and use an A-frame tow-bar to haul the Slingshot around. If the belt removal and re-installation isn't a major job (something that remains TBD) this would offer the cheapest towing option.
This should work well, but with a single rear wheel, it may not offer quite as much tracking stability during turns as a typical four-wheeled vehicle would during such flat-towing, so it might merit some closer study. My fear is that the single rear wheel might slide to some degree, rather than force the front wheels to steer so as to follow the tow vehicle through turns. Maybe some of the T-rex or Spyder faithful have already tried this and can offer input.

Additionally, we'd want to ensure that the transmission in Slingshot is self-lubricating with only the output shaft rotating. Most are, but some aren't. Until we know, we might also consider simply removing the drive belt or the intermediate driveshaft from transmission to final bevel drive during towing.

I get a feeling one could remove the belt from the driven sprocket on the wheel for towing rather easily via this method: loosen the rear wheel's belt tension adjustment forward, and remove the belt from the wheel sprocket. At that point, one could simply stow the belt with cable ties to the chassis or swingarm without actually removing it from the vehicle, for dismantling the rear suspension for complete removal/replacement is of course is the time-consuming part. When you arrive at your destination, cut the cable ties, re-install the belt, adjust the tension, and you're ready to ride in minutes :D
 
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Bill, I don't expect towing via an A-frame tow-bar attached to the front of the slingshot to cause a problem. According to the training video I watched, removing or loosening the belt is done from the front of the swingarm and once loosened it doesn't look to any effort to remove the belt completely. My main intent with disconnecting/removing the belt was to prevent anything beyond the rear axle turning when towed.
Either way, I think it should work. The hardest part will be determining the strongest points for mounting the tow-points at the front of the Slingshot. Right now, I'm assuming either mounting to the tube frame itself or somewhere on the metal frame holding the suspension/engine mounts.
Given the relatively high cost of most suitable trailers, I think whoever build an inexpensive, reliable tow system such as this will have a profitable product.
 
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Bill, I don't expect towing via an A-frame tow-bar attached to the front of the slingshot to cause a problem. According to the training video I watched, removing or loosening the belt is done from the front of the swingarm and once loosened it doesn't look to any effort to remove the belt completely. My main intent with disconnecting/removing the belt was to prevent anything beyond the rear axle turning when towed.
Either way, I think it should work. The hardest part will be determining the strongest points for mounting the tow-points at the front of the Slingshot. Right now, I'm assuming either mounting to the tube frame itself or somewhere on the metal frame holding the suspension/engine mounts.
Given the relatively high cost of most suitable trailers, I think whoever build an inexpensive, reliable tow system such as this will have a profitable product.
I'm hopeful it will work well too! Say, do you happen to have a link to that belt swap video? Would love to see the hardware in action. :)
 

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Hey Bill,
Find the thread titled Slingshot service training videos, then go to #43 in that thread, the belt changing part is "Service Mod 3 Maintenance 2"

Tom
 
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Hey Bill,
Find the thread titled Slingshot service training videos, then go to #43 in that thread, the belt changing part is "Service Mod 3 Maintenance 2"

Tom
Much obliged!
 

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I thought it was reinforced with carbon fiber? Sounds like it can take a good amount of abuse. I wonder what a spare one costs?
A new 34mm/174t belt is $239.99 (p/n 3211184).
 
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