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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I was really concerned on how much heat from the engine was hitting my newly mounted turbo gauges and SSV BT Controller. These items were getting really hot, so I decided to make a heat shield to help protect these items and limit the heat into the cabin.

Here is what it looks like stock...



You can easily see the motor and A LOT of heat came through. Great if you are in north winter and want to make a plate with air vents. Not good for AZ.

Here is things I used for this project....

Found this at Lowes in the air duct section. - $7 (you will have extra for another SS buddy to do this)


Heat tape, adhesive tape, and heat barrier self stick heat shield.



Car Turbo Exhaust Muffler Insulation Heat Shield Mat 100cm x 100cm x 0 5cm | eBay

STEPS.

Cut 2 pieces of duct work to 8 inch height and 6 wide (they fit side be side to make 8X12) You do two pieces so that you can notch them and fit them through the stock hole.

Fold bottom edges to make smooth so you can still run wires out the bottom without cutting them.



(Optional) Notch bottom right of left piece and bottom left of right piece to make a small V notch for wired to fit through (these wires go to my LEDs, halos, horn from my rocker switches


Adhere self stick exhaust heat shield to cover sharp edges to create stronger heat barrier (apply quickly and cut off extra with scissors for clean look)

Apply Scotch extreme mounting tape to back side (facing the motor) on each piece. There is a nice plastic ridge in the cubby hole area that these will stick to.

Stick the in the compartment and line them up. Make sure they stick good. Clean before application.

Take 3M heat tape to tape both pieces together after being placed and to cover other holes for better heat blocking and look.

After....





NOTES

This gauge of sheet metal works good because you will need to bend the drivers side to go around some factory wiring. This is why the 3M heat tape works good for the final securing of both items.

For me..... the cost me $7 and about 1 hour of my time. I had many items laying around and only had to buy the aluminum air duct item from Lowes.

AZ Locals - I have extra duct material if anyone want to do this to theirs.



 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Can anyone see the pics?

I can on my end....
 

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Great post Trav - we need all the help we can get fighting the heat problems!! Gonna give this one a try
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Ok, good.

This is a pretty easy mod and it is keeping out quite a bit of heat and a little bit of sound.

I should have laser used a laser thermometer for before and after. Oh well....
 

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Couldn't tell if you covered the area above the switches. Use dynomat (nasty and gooey but works) to seal above the switches.
 

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I was really concerned on how much heat from the engine was hitting my newly mounted turbo gauges and SSV BT Controller. These items were getting really hot, so I decided to make a heat shield to help protect these items and limit the heat into the cabin.

Here is what it looks like stock...



You can easily see the motor and A LOT of heat came through. Great if you are in north winter and want to make a plate with air vents. Not good for AZ.

Here is things I used for this project....

Found this at Lowes in the air duct section. - $7 (you will have extra for another SS buddy to do this)

Heat tape, adhesive tape, and heat barrier self stick heat shield.



http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/161473980446?lpid=82&chn=ps

STEPS.

Cut 2 pieces of duct work to 8 inch height and 6 wide (they fit side be side to make 8X12) You do two pieces so that you can notch them and fit them through the stock hole.

Fold bottom edges to make smooth so you can still run wires out the bottom without cutting them.


(Optional) Notch bottom right of left piece and bottom left of right piece to make a small V notch for wired to fit through (these wires go to my LEDs, halos, horn from my rocker switches


Adhere self stick exhaust heat shield to cover sharp edges to create stronger heat barrier (apply quickly and cut off extra with scissors for clean look)

Apply Scotch extreme mounting tape to back side (facing the motor) on each piece. There is a nice plastic ridge in the cubby hole area that these will stick to.

Stick the in the compartment and line them up. Make sure they stick good. Clean before application.

Take 3M heat tape to tape both pieces together after being placed and to cover other holes for better heat blocking and look.

After....



NOTES

This gauge of sheet metal works good because you will need to bend the drivers side to go around some factory wiring. This is why the 3M heat tape works good for the final securing of both items.

For me..... the cost me $7 and about 1 hour of my time. I had many items laying around and only had to buy the aluminum air duct item from Lowes.

AZ Locals - I have extra duct material if anyone want to do this to theirs.


AWESOME-AWESOME - - Thank-You 4 sharing
U R "The-Man" (a large one-but a good one)
carol n tom still cooling down from our super hot-trip from "Stranded in Aiken, SC"
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Pictures are fixed on this thread.

I also did a very similar thing to the pedal area...

 

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There is a LOT of vibration so what about that eventually working the metal off and it falling? would it be better to secure the metal with a couple self taping screws? even if you took it off in the future you would never see the holes in the plastic.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I am sure there are a lot of better ways to do this.... But this was the quickest, cheapest, and easiest for me to keep extra heat out of my gauge/radio area and my foot area.

When the items loosen up from vibrations and heat, I just layer on more dynamat and/or cut pieces of 3m alum. heat tape to the area.



Not the perfect fix, but there isn't anything better for the pedal area yet.
 

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I use this 3m heat tape for my snake cage heating elements. Over all it works pretty good. It actually starts pealing up and coming off around 110 - 120 degree's I consistently have to re-tape the elements. so I would suggest keeping the roll around :) I am going to look around and see if I can find a cheap easy solution for myself and share it as well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I use this 3m heat tape for my snake cage heating elements. Over all it works pretty good. It actually starts pealing up and coming off around 110 - 120 degree's I consistently have to re-tape the elements. so I would suggest keeping the roll around :) I am going to look around and see if I can find a cheap easy solution for myself and share it as well.
Using it behind dynamat or heat shield to secure the items and fill cracks seems to work good. But you are right, at some point you will need to do some patch work. I still have half a roll, so its all good by me.
 
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took my whole dash off after seeing this post,,,,got a small piece of sheetmetal, cut to fit,$6..then some coolit insulation $20..(crap is costly),,,but wrapped the sheetmetal with it,..re-installed it all,,and tomorrow will test and see if the "FEEL" test is noticable....just trying to protect my led controllers from heat damage..:) to be continured...:)
 

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just a reminder that cycle springs sells a whole fibreglass looking piece that actually looks like a complete firewall. Summer is coming fast and then the heat issues will rear their ugly head again.
 
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