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Just got back from taking Kay for a special CT Scan and just now reading this...

Guys..... Take a big relaxing breath and recall I've taken all the inserts and body panels off at least 30 Slings now. I even posted a DIY video on the "other forum" which details how to remove all.

As far as the crack in the hood above the release, I fixed one by beveling the crack, gluing a thin ABS strip on the under side, clamped it over night, filled , sanded and painted and it's still holding perfect. Now... I experimented with several glues and for the life of me can't remember what I used!!! Help here is appreciated!

The double sided tape is a 'bear' if you have never done it..... 26 screws 20 bolts, a T-40, a T-25, a 10mm, lacquer thinner in a squirt bottle, a thin metal yardstick and a few beers and you are golden for removing all the front panels and inserts.
 

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Other than the doublestick tape (see below), the other potential problem wit the hood inserts is the way they attach to the front edge of the hood. The inserts have little fingers with tabs designed to lock into the holes on the front of then hood. Unfortunately, those holes in the front edge of the hood also have additional fingers at the back of the hole that push the insert tabs forward, locking them very tightly in place. If the tabs at the back of the holes in the hood are not cut back about 1/8" or so, it is all too easy to break the hood insert fingers that are supposed to get locked in place at the front of the hood.
See Five questions about a new hood., Post # 6 and Removing panels from the hood?, Post # 40.
Also, when reinstalling the hood insert screws, do NOT OVERTIGHTEN the screws as the threads can be stripped all too easily and the hood inserts aren't a cheap item to replace.
I borrowed a thin cake spatula from my Wife, similar to this one - Amazon.com: Wilton 409-7716 Angled Icing Spatula, 13-Inch, Black: Kitchen & Dining. It was narrow and long enough to slip under the inserts and allow me to slowly break the tape between the hood pieces and the inserts. Just took a little time and patience (something my Wife says I sorely lack)!:banghead:

To give credit where credit is due, @Painter is 100% correct. His tips on disassembly have been immensely valuable! Especially regarding the locking tabs and not stripping the threads in the hood inserts.
 

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Great Videos @Painter. I will second what you stress over and over:

Walk very carefully with the fasteners anywhere and everywhere on the SS. it is infinitely easy to break something if you don't take your time and know exactly what you're doing. If something doesn't feel quit right, stop and figure it out or you will break something for sure.

I also concur with your observations that there are parts of the SS that were not designed to be taken apart once put together. I'd bet money that is why dealers are ordering the inserts when they do the hood replacements - they either are not going to spend the time it takes to remove them on a warranty repair and are just replacing them De Facto OR they are breaking so many of them they have decided it's a fruitless battle and their service guys are breaking so many of them trying to get them off that they have to have replacements handy.

The design is interesting I'll give it that.
 

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I didn't use solvent when removing the hood inserts. After I pried everything apart, I placed a piece of paper towel over each piece of double-stick tape and sprayed the paper towel with WD40 and let it sit over night. The paper towel was used to try and keep the WD40 on the tape and not dripping off.The next day I used my power washer to clean the tape residue from the hood. I also washed the parts with water and Dawn dish detergent to remove grease. Some pieces of tape needed a second treatment.
 

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If you want to remove any tape, glue, decals from automotive paint or Glass use a plastic razor blade and diesel fuel. Do not try to take it all of in one swipe, spray it with diesel and let it set a minute. I have taken off decals that were 10 years old and hard as rock. If your removing OLD decals use a Hair dryer NOT a heat gun. They produce way too much heat. Just warm it to 80 to 90 degrees ( or let sit in the sun) . If you want to remove the item in the first photo just pull the string. (if wife see this this old photo you will know I wont be back on the board i will be DEAD)
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Well made a warrenty claim for crack in hood and it was denied, call slingshot CS line (1-855-863-2284) and got a case going and just got call back and they are not going to replace it...They made a GOOD WILL offer tho....they would pay 1/2 of the cost and if down road they find to to be warrenty item then they would send me back other 1/2. Well they want $1000 for hood, I found on line for $776.99 OEM Hood. So I told them I am not paying another $500 to $800 for something I just paid $27,00 for. I want to hear from anyone who has had this issue and see if you all want to join me in a Class Action Law Suite for them not covering this under warrenty due to defect in the work (engineering) . get me on here or email [email protected]

Thanks

Sling Shot Joe
i just had my hood replace on warrenty no problem
 
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