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Can Alpha Turbo be Shut Off ??

3842 Views 37 Replies 11 Participants Last post by  uglyrider954
My mechanic friend is helping me to install the turbo next week and I bought a boost controller w/ fail-safe (link below) so I can have it cut out the turbo if boost gets too high. Is there something that I can do to disarm the turbo or perhaps put in a different spring so the idiots at the dealership don't all go take it for a beat run when being serviced? There's tons of burnouts marks at the dealership lot from the guys messing around and I bet the whole staff will want to take it for beat run after learning it has a turbo. Makes me angry just thinking about it...
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valet would be sweet, could just retard timing and rpms, the turbo would never even spool.
Yep. My last sports car had one and it was like a Prius when that key was used. Take away the ability to abuse completely. :)
BKL do you mean wastegate spring?


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Yes I'm sure he does and that's a really good idea.
My BAD. Still developing my knowledge base for Forced Induction and still have more to learn.
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My BAD. Still developing my knowledge base for Forced Induction and still have more to learn.
No worries Sir!


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The only way to prevent the turbo from working is to use an electronic boost controler and install the lightest spring you can get for your wastegate. That will drop the turbo max psi to that of the spring (probably around 4psi), and you can then reset the boost controler to 9psi after. Nothing stops someone from also playing with the boost controler though.

You could also completly remove the blow off valve, which is means you now have a huge hole in your intake, which will prevent any build of boost, but would be letting unfiltered air into the intake if the engine is run.

I agree that I would change dealers or stay at the shop while they work on my machine.
you could also completly remove the wastegate from the exhaust. Its not fun, and it will sound like shit, but it will not build boost or if it does, its only going to be very little (like 1 psi).

Mind you driving all the way to your dealer with a removed wastegate, not very good, it will run much too rich as soon as you press on the gas a bit.
This is crazy to me. Most techs are scared to drive my machine even when I tell them it is ok.

The only realistic solution here is installing a small wastegate spring (yellow 3psi) at install and programming your boost controller correctly.

Program it to only build 4lbs of boost for a Valet Mode and program it for 9psi for your normal driving.

It shouldn't be rocket science to do this on your end and I highly doubt a tech/mechanic would mess with it.

Replacing springs all the time is a pain and disconnecting BOVs or Wastegates will cause more headache and potential issues then just letting someone beat on it.

I'm just going to bring it to a larger dealership that's a bit father from my house and tell them that the turbo is not tuned correctly so please do not drive it past 3000 rpms.
I'm just going to bring it to a larger dealership that's a bit father from my house and tell them that the turbo is not tuned correctly so please do not drive it past 3000 rpms.
That might be giving them a ready-made excuse for any problems they don't want to deal with.
Check this out Ugly. Valet feature.... :)

Innovate PSB-1: PowerSafe Boost & Air/Fuel Ratio Gauge

What I don't know for sure is when they say will temporarily hold at spring pressure. If they mean 6 lbs of boost if you have a 6 lbs spring, thats not valet mode in my book. I want 0 lbs of boost in valet mode.
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Check this out Ugly. Valet feature.... :)

Innovate PSB-1: PowerSafe Boost & Air/Fuel Ratio Gauge

What I don't know for sure is when they say will temporarily hold at spring pressure. If they mean 6 lbs of boost if you have a 6 lbs spring, thats not valet mode in my book. I want 0 lbs of boost in valet mode.
With this type of electronic boost controller, you'd run a small wastegate spring and let the boost controller control boost pressures.

You'd just run a 3psi wastegate spring. So valet mode would be 3 psi, which would be only an extra 40-50 HP.
Service it yourself.
I have to have ALL of my panels replaced as paint is bad, angle drive is leaking again for the second time and they are fixing mushy brakes. Oh... and I have a 2016.5 with less than 1000 miles. Other than that ... I love this thing lol
I have to have ALL of my panels replaced as paint is bad, angle drive is leaking again for the second time and they are fixing mushy brakes. Oh... and I have a 2016.5 with less than 1000 miles. Other than that ... I love this thing lol
Hey Ugly, whats going on with the paint? I've heard a few people with bad paint but never quite got what the "bad" part is. My Pearl White paint is perfect TBH so wondering if its a certain color or ? that has been the issue. Is it peeling, orange-peeled?
Btw, the oem ecu logs total engine running time, and total engine life RPM. With mefiscan software, you could always take a note of how many hours of run time and engine revolutiona your SS has going in, and coming out...
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After finally complaining and going through multiple levels of management I finally got to the engineering department and they told me that perhaps it went through an area that someone was welding? Another buddy of mine said that when the robots were clear coating that perhaps there was some air in the line and it didn't dry correctly. Alsooo...I do know that my black sling used to be red and the factory repainted over it which I think is bullshit. Video below:

Polaris issues
I have to have ALL of my panels replaced as paint is bad, angle drive is leaking again for the second time and they are fixing mushy brakes. Oh... and I have a 2016.5 with less than 1000 miles. Other than that ... I love this thing lol
Gotcha! Thought maybe it was just an oil change etc.
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Gotcha! Thought maybe it was just an oil change etc.
I wish. They will have it for a week probably.
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