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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Many people have installed or have thought about installing ARP Headstuds as extra insurance when running turbos or superchargers. The instructions and process is pretty straight forward, but below are a couple of tips that may help you....

Take a couple of minutes to scrape and vacuum all debris before taking off you valve cover. Pay close attention to the area by the front two sensors shown below...



If you don't realize this like me and take off your valve cover before cleaning, you end up with a bunch of debris as shown below that you very carefully have to clean up before anything falls where it shouldn't be.


Pull off your front two sensors and coils and set them back as shown. Not yet done on the picture, but the only coolant line you should need to move is the one that is routed in front of the motor. Simply take it off on the drivers side and set it out of the way carefully without spilling any coolant.


The side the has the longer threads goes into the motor side. If you have issues (they won't thread correctly the wrong way) you probably have it backwards.

You do these one at a time in the correct sequence as the instructions state. Start them by hand and use a allen wrench to gently thread them all the way in until they bottom out. Back them out a couple of turns, apply lube, washer, and nut, and then torque down to 80ft lbs. You can see a new one below on the rights and an old one on the left.



Once done, take some time you make sure you valve cover gaskets are clean and in good shape, apply a little bit of oil so that aren't dry and re-install everything.

For me, this project was about two hours from start to finish. I didn't find any loose factory head bolts and was 95% sure that I wouldn't. With the extreme heat in AZ and almost 10 track days, if something was loose, the motor would have failed by now.

 

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Many people have installed or have thought about installing ARP Headstuds as extra insurance when running turbos or superchargers. The instructions and process is pretty straight forward, but below are a couple of tips that may help you....

Take a couple of minutes to scrape and vacuum all debris before taking off you valve cover. Pay close attention to the area by the front two sensors shown below...



If you don't realize this like me and take off your valve cover before cleaning, you end up with a bunch of debris as shown below that you very carefully have to clean up before anything falls where it shouldn't be.


Pull off your front two sensors and coils and set them back as shown. Not yet done on the picture, but the only coolant line you should need to move is the one that is routed in front of the motor. Simply take it off on the drivers side and set it out of the way carefully without spilling any coolant.


The side the has the longer threads goes into the motor side. If you have issues (they won't thread correctly the wrong way) you probably have it backwards.

You do these one at a time in the correct sequence as the instructions state. Start them by hand and use a allen wrench to gently thread them all the way in until they bottom out. Back them out a couple of turns, apply lube, washer, and nut, and then torque down to 80ft lbs. You can see a new one below on the rights and an old one on the left.



Once done, take some time you make sure you valve cover gaskets are clean and in good shape, apply a little bit of oil so that aren't dry and re-install everything.

For me, this project was about two hours from start to finish. I didn't find any loose factory head bolts and was 95% sure that I wouldn't. With the extreme heat in AZ and almost 10 track days, if something was loose, the motor would have failed by now.
Thanks Travis. Doing mine over the winter.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Here are the install instructions that DDM posted. With the instructions and tips, hopefully most people will find this to be one of the easier projects.

Sling Head Studs 1.JPG
 
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