* Alpha Turbo & Side Exh Ordered - What else do I need? *

Good choice on a great kit. I am sure you will be fine with the red and natural spring that will put you around 9psi of boost.

You need gauges. Even if they are not the best ones available. You want to monitor your boost levels and AFR to make sure everything is hooked up correctly. I have a set of ASPX gauges that I will sell you for cheap, or go with the AEM Failsafe that has both AFR and Boost in one gauge. The boost controller you listed will do everything you need.

The side exhaust is the best choice. There isn't a bunch more heat from the side exhaust. I am not sure where you are hearing this. Heat will go down when you bail on the stock muffler. The turbo will get hot during aggressive driving, but that is nature of the beast.

There will always be a little bit of smell with these systems because of where the exhaust exits. It isnt that bad and fuel has been taken out of the tune recently to make the smell even less. If you are really worried, experiment on angling the side tip down and away from you; instead of out of the side. (see below pics)

When you buy the kit, you send off your ECM to get the most recent Alpha Stage 2 tune from @MEFIburn (Bob). This tune has been performing really good lately and everyone seems to be really happy. Big shout out to Bob the man!

Not sure what you are hearing about rough idle or strange performance...? Bobs Alpha tune is set to run in open loop and he raises the idle to 1000rpm. Both items should make the vehicle idle smoother. Sometimes you will notice a "rough" like idle in initial startup, but then it will go away. This has to do with programming of the cranking fuel duration I believe. It is nothing to worry about. Other were having some "fuel bog" issues when aggressively short shifting, so Bob adjusted the tune to take out some fuel enrichment.

Again - the tune is looking really good and has been safe for many of us that have been driving the higher boost set-up really hard.

Things I would purchase with the kit....

• a turbo header - Alpha or the new turbo 1320 - this helps with exhaust flow, performance, looks, etc
• Stage 8 locking hot side turbo bolts - probably the #1 thing that can come loose. If you install Stage 8s they will never come loose. I believe I bought 5 bolts of the below. Call them to get the right stuff. Great people.
• #3902 8MM TURBO BOLT KIT
  
• Buy and run longer bolts on the header flange and use locking nuts on the opposite side so they will never come loose. (see some pictures below)
• Then just make sure you have the right gasket maker for the oil pan and exhaust connections

You are going to love the new found power and the quality of the Alpha stuff!

The boost controller you show would be cool. It would replace the need in having an additional AFR and boost gauge. It would all be done with that one product.

Sopranosfan said:

The one thing I did was invest in ARP head studs. Just extra insurance. Pretty easy to install yourself, but you will need one special tool to do it to get the correct 55 degree after torque specs

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harleyujoe said:

+155 degrees after proper torque

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ARP head studs are not the same torque as the stock head bolts. ARP recommends tightening the ARP nuts in three equal steps to 80 ft/lbs. Do not torque them to the stock head bolt torque of 22 ft/lbs plus 155 degrees.

I started to write my version of the turbo install instructions. I will try to get them done today to help you.

Biggest thing to note is if you have a >= 2016.5 (can't speak to the 2016 but easy to check) you have to remove the rear radiator shroud to get the oil pan out. In order to do that you have to remove the radiator. In order to do that you have to remove the sway bar. ;-)

Short version - you will be taking everything from the front of the motor forward off.

The reason for this is to get the oil pan out, you jack up the motor and tranny and slide the oil pan over the steering rack and then drop it down in back. On the new shroud design you can't do that with the shroud and radiator in place - not even close to enough room.

The other thing I would have done differently, that I will be redoing this winter, is installing a bung in the new oil pan for an oil temp probe. iNewton (I believe it was him) noted how to do this in a post of his which I'll find the link to. There is a tapped port in the oil pan you can utilize but the pan has to be off the car to do (all that nasty aluminum shavings you don't want in your oil)

I'll work on finishing the install doc today. I've got it about 50% done. There are lots of little gotchya's that if you know about will save you many hours.