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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Guess I should start a new thread instead of reviving an old thread.

I bought a system from Mitch at Rev Dynamic.

Mitch was kind enough to sell me a system minus the air tank, he also helped because I am a disabled veteran.

I'll post some pictures of the install and try to answer questions.

20161114_145357.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I used a tee to go from tank to tank, then off that line I connected the manifold valves. I used one gauge and two switches, so I have spares.

20161116_120330_001.jpg
 

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One sigle needle gauge for the rear and one single needle gauge for the 2 fronts? Are you only using one valve for both front air shocks? What kind of metal are those tanks made of and how do you plan on doing preventative maintenance on them?

Just trying to help. :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
The tank sold with the kit has a one gallon capacity and takes part of a of a compartment. My four tanks have a one and one third gallon capacity and is hidden under the body works.
 

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I've got a custom one gallon aluminum tank with custom brackets hidden in the rear fin. I asked what your tanks are made of as they will accumulate water over a short time and will need to be evacuated. How are you planning on doing that? You may want to flip your side tanks so the connection is facing downward so when you empty the water it will all drain out and not set in the bottom.

Also if you have one valve controlling two opposing wheels you will have a great deal of wondering/slop during hard cornering. The better set up for handling purposes would be to have one valve per wheel.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
One sigle needle gauge for the rear and one single needle gauge for the 2 fronts? Are you only using one valve for both front air shocks? What kind of metal are those tanks made of and how do you plan on doing preventative maintenance on them?

Just trying to help. :)
Tanks are aluminum tested to about 2200 psi. Once a year I will need to take them out and drain any water that might get in them. Bummer but that is what ill need to do.
 

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This is all crazy fun! @LargeCar, what PSI do you fill the tanks to?

@WraithSS can you post pix of your tank?
20160604_183412.jpg

Have one of my double needle gauges showing tank pressure. Also have a remote drain valve. Entire kit can be duplicated now.
20161008_171511.jpg

Gauges do a full sweep on start up and match factory dash gauges. Each one is a dual needle model.
 

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Did you go with the digital or the analog air ride system?? I just pre ordered my digital accuair system with the wifi receiver myself. Keep us updated on the install and how you like it. =)
 
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
This is all crazy fun! @LargeCar, what PSI do you fill the tanks to?

@WraithSS can you post pix of your tank?
Don't know yet, still not on the ground. Doing some other stuff as well. It takes me a little extra time to do stuff because it is difficult for me to get up, down is easy, up is the hard part. Plus I don't bend where I used to, its that danged D.I.S.H thing again.

LC
 

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Your kit should have come with a pressure sensor switch rated at 135 psi on/150 psi off. This is how the compressor is controlled.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
View attachment 88737
Have one of my double needle gauges showing tank pressure. Also have a remote drain valve. Entire kit can be duplicated now.
View attachment 88745
Gauges do a full sweep on start up and match factory dash gauges. Each one is a dual needle model.
Man I like your install better than mine, good job. Wished I had seen your set up before I started on mine.

LC
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Your kit should have come with a pressure sensor switch rated at 135 psi on/150 psi off. This is how the compressor is controlled.
Your right it does have the switch, I mis read the post. I thought he was asking what pressure I was filling the shocks to, my bad. The standard setup is with the 135 on 150 off switch you mentioned. It is installed on the valve body.

LC
 
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